Thread: Naniwa Superstone Lapping Issue

Hello chaps.

I've been reading and re-reading this thread with interest as a newb who has also experienced the humping on my 1k,5k and 8k SS. When I first noticed the issue, I thought I had done something wrong. There definately are dimensional changes as in the OP pictures. This sure is a real pi$$er. FYI I lap on wet 'n' dry.

I have noticed my 8k, especially, sucks up my spritzing of water for the first few sprays. As SS users know, soaking is not recommended by the manufacturers and I have stuck with light sprays through my honing. The soak method seems to work for GS, so I am not arguing the success there

However, what I have adopted over my last few honing sessions is spraying the sides/ends of my stones, in addition to the tops, to see if the absorbtion/evaporation hypothesis mentioned within this thread comes into play. I think there is something in this, as the centre area of the SS does seem to retain moisture and probably swells as a result. The only problem I am going to encounter in quantifying this, is that I do not hone many razors, once I have my meagre rotation usable.

It might be worth one of the 'busier' honers out there giving the side spray method a trial over a few weeks, and see if anything positive comes about?

Chris

Originally Posted by cj121

Hello chaps.

I've been reading and re-reading this thread with interest as a newb who has also experienced the humping on my 1k,5k and 8k SS. When I first noticed the issue, I thought I had done something wrong. There definately are dimensional changes as in the OP pictures. This sure is a real pi$$er. FYI I lap on wet 'n' dry.

I have noticed my 8k, especially, sucks up my spritzing of water for the first few sprays. As SS users know, soaking is not recommended by the manufacturers and I have stuck with light sprays through my honing. The soak method seems to work for GS, so I am not arguing the success there

However, what I have adopted over my last few honing sessions is spraying the sides/ends of my stones, in addition to the tops, to see if the absorbtion/evaporation hypothesis mentioned within this thread comes into play. I think there is something in this, as the centre area of the SS does seem to retain moisture and probably swells as a result. The only problem I am going to encounter in quantifying this, is that I do not hone many razors, once I have my meagre rotation usable.

It might be worth one of the 'busier' honers out there giving the side spray method a trial over a few weeks, and see if anything positive comes about?

Chris

One thought is that if you are consistent and lightly lap your hone
at the same place in the process you and the hone will eventually
find an equilibrium. Try to not be compulsive about flat as the
hone will take up water and change dimensions as you work.

My habit that works is to dip the hone in a 1/4" (about 1 cm) of water
let it rest inverted for 5 min. Then I lightly lap the
surface removing half the thickness of a sheet of paper or less
leave the slurry on the hone and start. A little bit after the
slurry turns gray I dilute the slurry and finish hone the edge.

If I have a handful of razors I do lap again some place
about the third and fifth razor as needed.

But a simple touch up/ refresh only takes five min so there is hardly enough time
for the hone to soak and change shape by any serious amount.

A five min touch up... might be a simple splash or water, light lap to
keep the hone flat and generate a slurry and then as the slurry turns grey
dilute and finish. Since the hone never "soaks" the dimension change
is small....

What is the downside if you do choose to soak the naniwa stones for 5-10 minutes before using them? Glen didn't mention anything happening to his and he's been doing it for a while it seems.

I did this on mine this morning when honing razors for someone and it worked nicely...

Originally Posted by Disburden

What is the downside if you do choose to soak the naniwa stones for 5-10 minutes before using them? Glen didn't mention anything happening to his and he's been doing it for a while it seems.

I did this on mine this morning when honing razors for someone and it worked nicely...

As long as you are consistent and lightly lap
just prior to use the right thing will happen.

However if one day you soak it and another day do a spray
and go you will find the surface less flat than when used
consistently.

I've adopted the technique of just spraying and letting the ss sit, its much easier anyway.

I'm a blazing top gun newbie. I know virtually nothing about this subject. I'm in my reading, watching and learning period.

I am looking to buy some of the Naniwa super stones.

Here's my 2 cents about this subject.....

What about the thickness of the super stones. Is it not a crucial thing.? Whether it could be a factor in unevenness in the stones, or not.
If you ask me, a 1cm thick stone is more likely to "warp" than a 2cm super stone is.
Am i wrong....??

I'm thinking about buying this set up:
All naniwa stones.
1k
3k
8k
12k
Okay set up? Is the jump between the 3k and the 8k to big?

Kind regards Lars Jensen

I haven't seen a test of this, but I don't think these stones warp much. If they were 3 feet long and you stood on them, yes, but at 8 inches with knife-sharpening pressure, I doubt it. Further, you're supposed to support them while sharpening, so warping becomes a total non issue.

I personally think the 3k to 8k jump is a little big, but others may disagree. A common rule of thumb is to double the grit at each stage, so you see progressions like 1-2-4-8 and 1-3-5/6-10/12.

3K is very close to 4K. The other possibility is 5K. Both work & do basically the same thing--as reported by Lynn, Glen, etc.

Originally Posted by wsfarrell

I haven't seen a test of this, but I don't think these stones warp much. If they were 3 feet long and you stood on them, yes, but at 8 inches with knife-sharpening pressure, I doubt it. Further, you're supposed to support them while sharpening, so warping becomes a total non issue.

I personally think the 3k to 8k jump is a little big, but others may disagree. A common rule of thumb is to double the grit at each stage, so you see progressions like 1-2-4-8 and 1-3-5/6-10/12.

Did you read the whole thread? The issue with warping is because of water and swelling, besides which a razor requires nowhere near "knife-sharpening pressure."

As for the grit, 3k to 8k is just fine... I have never before heard anyone cite as a rule of thumb "double the grit," which would produce much larger gaps that 3 to 8...