Naniwa 12K after a Coticule, to improve edges that are good but not great?

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Originally Posted by Jeltz

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dulled it on a bottle then
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Comment for beginners... about "dull on a glass"

Ouch... there are reasons to do the dull on a glass thing
yet it is not something that should be done to a worthy razor
you are shaving with.

The amount of steel you have to hone away and the resulting
chips on some blades makes this a parlor trick for honing contests
and on occasion hone evaluations. It is not something a beginning
shaver should play with when the goal is to shave.

This thread is very interesting. Coti hones are natural and vary
a lot. The Na12K is a worthy hone and is both fast and fine to the
point that it could be used lightly on Saturday afternoon to put a
smooth sharp edge on a razor for the rest of the week. Heck the
next month or two.

A prize coti is well "a prize" and for some there is no better edge.
I used mine under water only for decades... no flat lap no rubbing
stone...

If you have both -- the shave test will tell you
what you need to know. Me I had fallen in love with a Na12K followed
by a grey canvas (dirty) and clean leather. Lately
I have been slow dancing with an 8K snow white hone...

I've not found much differance with most razors honed with a full dilucot. i own several ti's and mine turn out well enough for me. i do find differant razors feel differant, on my skin. I also found using 4k /8k norton, then finishing on a coticule felt differant to a full honing on coticule from start to finish. So i'm only guessing that it could depend on what hones you use previous?

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Originally Posted by gary haywood

I've not found much differance with most razors honed with a full dilucot. i own several ti's and mine turn out well enough for me. i do find differant razors feel differant, on my skin. I also found using 4k /8k norton, then finishing on a coticule felt differant to a full honing on coticule from start to finish. So i'm only guessing that it could depend on what hones you use previous?

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I have noticed the same thing when finishing on Jnats. If I take edge to synthetic limit 30k Shapton, then finish with Jnat it is a different shave then if I start on Jnat much earlier.

Earlier in this thread someone mentioned this video. I think it is very close to what was initially discussed:


‪ReSharpening of a Razor - Nachschärfen eines Rasiermessers‬‏ - YouTube


I have found that this works for getting a consistant smooth and sharp edge - allthough it probably doesn't reach the highest level of sharpness that some of you guys seek.

Do any of you have any comments or advice for a next step to what is done in the video - if one would want to add to the sharpness without loosing smoothness?

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Originally Posted by Unicorn

Earlier in this thread someone mentioned this video. I think it is very close to what was initially discussed:


‪ReSharpening of a Razor - Nachschärfen eines Rasiermessers‬‏ - YouTube


I have found that this works for getting a consistant smooth and sharp edge - allthough it probably doesn't reach the highest level of sharpness that some of you guys seek.

Do any of you have any comments or advice for a next step to what is done in the video - if one would want to add to the sharpness without loosing smoothness?

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you'd add a natural finisher - Escher, Jnat , very fine coticule, or a pasted strop.

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Originally Posted by Kingfish

I have noticed the same thing when finishing on Jnats. If I take edge to synthetic limit 30k Shapton, then finish with Jnat it is a different shave then if I start on Jnat much earlier.

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How does it feel diifferent? I am curious!

We all have our individual razors and stones, and our individual skill level. This leads to our own conclusions based on our experience with pursuing that ultimate shaving edge. We can get very serious and emotional about our own opinions based on our experience.

I hope we can keep it in perspective and remember that we are all friends here and that is more important than whether my theory is "right" as opposed to yours. If everyone cools off and keeps it on topic, avoids getting personal, and remembers that this is really not that important the thread will continue. Smooth shaving gentlemen.

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Originally Posted by mainaman

you'd add a natural finisher - Escher, Jnat , very fine coticule, or a pasted strop.

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this is where i got the idea from. martin mostly finishers on 1.0m and 0.25 bio diamond paste from ti . I have tryed this method with less laps on 10k as i come of water on coticule. the 10k does improve keeness levels if needed.i did find the edge a little coarse for my liking, thats why i would add my coticule or vintage 5x1 thury, or may be crox spray or paste . i asked martin why he uses this progression? he said he preferd to go to a higher grit synthetic, reason being it would take so may laps ona coticule, even though it could be done. he also said he preferd the edges of 10k naniwa. i've had three razors honed in this way by martin and they all were very sharp indeed . i just found the edges to be to corse for me .

gary

what i don't understand is why you would go from a 30k stone and step BACKWARDS for a finisher...

i personally go from my 1k for bevel to a 6k then to my chinese 12k then to a pasted leather strop with .5 micron diamond then my latigo strop....... i wouldn't then go back to the 6k..... why the step back??

i don't think many people would drop back from a 12k to a 6k , they may go from a 30k synthetic, in this case a shapton 30k. and then finsh with a natural stone . a natural stone tends to tame a very sharp edge , probably just like cronium oxide would. even a ch12k would probably work, i'm not to sure. may of us have used nortons for majority of the work, ten finished with a natural finisher to create a more forgiving softer edge , thats how it feels to me any way. i've shaved of 12k naniwa a couple of times and that is very close if not as good as a natural finisher. i'd never go back to a 6k after a 12k. naturals don't have grit rating, they just make a sharp nice edge a little more skin feindly in my opinion. same as cro .ox