Thread: J-Nat club

Originally Posted by basil

Randomly what would you guys recommend for slurry and lapping. A dmt or atoma?

Depends on you. If you want flat nothing beats an Atoma for the price. 1200 for slurry anything lower for lapping.
Paper on glass has "give" and won't give you the same flatness. Loose grit on glass is good for heavy duty flattening.

Everything that Stefan said is 100% true, but let’s also remember that when your old soldier lapping plate will not cut it anymore (pun intended) it’s just beginning it’s life as a slurry generator!

I have 2 Atoma's 1200 and both have worn through in the middle which is a shame. They are great for creating slurries now.
Also have 2 DMT 325's Both required a lot of work to remove raised parts from new but years later they are sill going strong.
For lapping I use the Shapton plate and I love it, the only drawback is the price..

Love this cloudy pattern on my ozuku.

Got a Koma today to go with the set.

My trusty finishing stone.
8” X 3” X 1” Karasu.
I have no idea of its pedigree however.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pl3khrj79...91p0V3FSa?dl=0

Originally Posted by whiskyrow

My trusty finishing stone.
8” X 3” X 1” Karasu.
I have no idea of its pedigree however.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pl3khrj79...91p0V3FSa?dl=0

Wonderful stone !!!!

I have 2 Atoma's 1200 and both have worn through in the middle which is a shame. They are great for creating slurries now.

Try cleaning your Diamond plates with cleanser I like Bar Keepers Friend, make a paste on the plate and leave on for 15-20 minutes, then scrub with a stiff brush, (Fingernail or brass paint brush cleaning tooth brush). Often what you think are worn spots are just swarf clogged portions of the plate.

I give my plates a good scrubbing regularly, it always improves performance. Also not letting slurry dry on them keeps them cutting longer. I give a quick scrub with a shot of Simple Green and fingernail brush after each use, end of the day, or if I am lapping a finish stone for finish laps, if it has been used on low grit stones, just takes a second. I do have a sink and running hot water in my shop a few steps from my honing station, it does make life much easier.

One more Karasu added to the collection. Besides the crows it has both grey and yellow asagi colors with some nashiji.
Very hard razor finisher.

With the risk of reading pickie here, I easily spot two distinct kiita in your group photo. The kanji for "ki" really does mean yellow, but as you have found out, a lot of the stones make a slurry that is yellow even though the stone might looks slightly red or orange. And the yellow kiita stones, their dried slurry usually dries white. The mineral composition of almost all of the Jnats contain yellow sand to a lesser or greater degree. The green asagi have hints of yellow, while the blue and gray asagi show less yellow, but there will be some. Silica is essentially white or clear, it is the clay that is red or yellow or brown, and sand it not 100% silica, Jnats are at the highest 65% silica, the other components make up the "mud" and include titanium and aluminum oxides plus 8 to 10 other components depending on the type of stone. Kiita, true kiita yellow stones are fairly rare, the kiita koppa are just that, bits and pieces. Large full size kiita are hard to locate. And probably more reside in the U.S. now than in Japan because of our active buying these past 25 years.

Hope this helps somehow,

Alx

This is what I call a Happy Kiita Camper



[QUOTE=rideon66;1872652]So these are various kiita base colors I have some have karasu, Iromono and other patterns that change it a bit, but I would call all the base color kiita to different degrees. I took pics at different angles and lightning the best I could to try and show how that can effect the look a bit. These are all dry pics.

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