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Thread: J-Nat club

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    Senior Member Steve56's Avatar
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    Just to add a footnote, here’s a tomo that’s broken along one of those familiar jnat lines.
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    My doorstop is a Nakayama

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve56 View Post
    Just to add a footnote, here’s a tomo that’s broken along one of those familiar jnat lines.
    What are the the stones now tomo in your last 2 posts ? Hardness? New to jnats still learning?

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    Quote Originally Posted by biglou13 View Post
    What are the the stones now tomo in your last 2 posts ? Hardness? New to jnats still learning?
    I don’t understand the first question. The stone that I cut is pictured. The second tomo on this page was always a tomo, I didn’t cut it. Hardness of the first set is about normal for a razor finisher, say lv 5. I don’t use the broken one on this page, it was broken when I received it.

    You’ll enjoy learning about jnats, they’re very versatile. You never seem to stop learning with them, there’s always something new and interesting. Glad to help out.
    My doorstop is a Nakayama

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    With a Tomo Nagura it is not so much about hardness, it is about the grit, grit size and its frangibility. A Nagura will make slurry by the nagura breaking down, smooth the base stone face and remove a bit of grit from the base stone.

    The two grits or slurry combine to make a new slurry. Often completely different from the originals from each stone, unless your Tomo is cut from the same stone. That is part of the mystique of Jnats and slurry. Add to that, slurry thickness, how or if it breaks down and technique, can have a unique effect on an edge.

    Some slurries will continue to break down, refine and polish, some stop cutting and need refreshing and or a new slurry. A lot depends on the razor, technique and condition of the bevel.

    Most folks have favorite Tomo nagura that work on a range of base stones but can still be tailored to produce a given result. Experimenting with different Tomo is the only way to find out what a stone is capable of. We are talking about finishing an edge, so results are varied and very subjective.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve56 View Post
    I don’t understand the first question. The stone that I cut is pictured. The second tomo on this page was always a tomo, I didn’t cut it. Hardness of the first set is about normal for a razor finisher, say lv 5. I don’t use the broken one on this page, it was broken when I received it.

    You’ll enjoy learning about jnats, they’re very versatile. You never seem to stop learning with them, there’s always something new and interesting. Glad to help out.
    I was inquiring about stone source or other description Ozuku, Karasu, shobudani, Kitta? My recently acquired jnat Kitta came with a tiny very hard gray tomo, it seems to raises slurry mostly from the base stone. works great for finishing. My novice opinion thinks it is an Ozuku from gray color and hardness. At this point I am researching about a larger replacement tomo.... harder than base stone / Kitta. I still learning the the qualities of the base stone and its own slurry, and not YET ready to experiment further. Hope that cleared up my questions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by biglou13 View Post
    I was inquiring about stone source or other description Ozuku, Karasu, shobudani, Kitta? My recently acquired jnat Kitta came with a tiny very hard gray tomo, it seems to raises slurry mostly from the base stone. works great for finishing. My novice opinion thinks it is an Ozuku from gray color and hardness. At this point I am researching about a larger replacement tomo.... harder than base stone / Kitta. I still learning the the qualities of the base stone and its own slurry, and not YET ready to experiment further. Hope that cleared up my questions.
    Yes, that clears it up. I bought the stone off a Japanese auction, the description for almost all stones are the same, ‘Look at pictures, no return’. Lol.

    The colors/patterns like kiita, asagi, karasu are visible so they rarely describe them except with superlatives if they’re wanting too much money. Only one or two sellers describe hardness, though several will show a bi-metal plane steel finished with the stone for sale.

    I like a tomo that’s in the same hardness range as the finisher, to get a mix of both in the slurry. Mikawa nagura, the stamped white nagura used as a coarser progression are usually used on a hone that’s harder than the Mikawa nagura, the idea being to hone on the Mikawa slurry through the progression of usually botan, tenjou, mejiro, and koma. You can use a very fast tomo as a prefinisher, standing in for say the koma Mikawa nagura, even though it isn’t really fine enough to finish well.

    As Marty said, you just have to try tomo nagura on each hone and see how they perform.
    My doorstop is a Nakayama

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    Senior Member aalbina's Avatar
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    Looking at the broken nagura- Very interesting - I am surprised by the variability of the textures in the interior of the stone.

    Adam
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    Senior Member Toroblanco's Avatar
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    I can tell you from experience that matching tomo to base stone in NOT easy. I had 8 tomos for my stones(8×40$=320$) and I really only liked one(velvety smooth), you can make due but not ideal.
    I purchased a Hatatoshi and made up my mind to take it to Alex Gilmore and all I can say is WOW! He knows what he is doing and has a vast collection to try and figure out which is best. If you can take it to him I would highly recommend as you get to see him at work(total pro). The second best is to send your base stone to him so he can match it up. Third would be to describe it to him and he can pick one for you. It will save you money in the end and you will have a perfectly matched Tomo for your stone. It can make your stone more versetile and speed it up. A eye opening experience for sure!
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    Same experience here. Was testing a stone and used 2 different hard, quality tomo. Razor was tugging. Rubbed a full stone that I was prepping to cut due to one inclusion and boom perfect shave. Went back to the first tomo and tugging again so it wasn't a fluke. All this while test shaving so me running back and forth lathering etc to keep as many variables as possible equal.
    Once the tomo and base stone click the results are amazing.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toroblanco View Post
    I can tell you from experience that matching tomo to base stone in NOT easy. I had 8 tomos for my stones(8×40$=320$) and I really only liked one(velvety smooth), you can make due but not ideal.
    I purchased a Hatatoshi and made up my mind to take it to Alex Gilmore and all I can say is WOW! He knows what he is doing and has a vast collection to try and figure out which is best. If you can take it to him I would highly recommend as you get to see him at work(total pro). The second best is to send your base stone to him so he can match it up. Third would be to describe it to him and he can pick one for you. It will save you money in the end and you will have a perfectly matched Tomo for your stone. It can make your stone more versetile and speed it up. A eye opening experience for sure!
    Stone is from Alex, and the tested tomo that he paired with it works spectacular. I was thinking what if I lost it, and how To match a tomo to stone.
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