Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
Do you put the slurry on a cloth?
Thank you!
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Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
Do you put the slurry on a cloth?
Thank you!
Yup, Wa powders are either powdered jnat or some synthetic, the synthetic is usually crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fikira
It's not very good at removing metal so I start off with wet n dry and finish off with nugui powder.
I use e piece of leather or a cotton ball with it, mix with oil or water but never ever let it go dry.
If it dries when polishing it will scratch, if it dries as a paste it might form lumps that will scratch.
Sure you could make a progression of different powders but since they are slow and only for final looks why would you.
It doesn't have to be from jnats, any fine natural hone will do, I've tried lots of different ones on steel and also for making a nice surface on gold and silver.
Great! Thank you very much!Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemur
It's now clear that's really useful after the sanding stage, I'm looking forward to experiment!
Most kindest regards,
Jethro
Below is another little Nakayama Karusu..
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This stone is a fast cutter although it is on the small side to what i like and a little on the softer side for razors. But still a nice stone :)
A few more of my Nagura small stones :)
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The slurry from the bottom left stone feels like un whipped cream, very silky! lol
One last nagura photo for tonight :)
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This little Nakayama (the one at the back) is weighing in at 1.6kg
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Top left and clockwise
Ikarashi, ohira kiita, nakayama asagi koppa, shoubodani, shuobodani 100. Ozuku asagi, ozaki suita, nakayama asagi mizu,kouzaki, umegehata gousa, and tsushima black. And about 15 tomos and asani naguras.(not pictured)
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Assorted tomos and naguras including yae botan and koma. A lot of the big ones look the same but they are very different shades ,textures and hardness.
Bill, that is a crazy collection! I'm totally jealous.
Cheers.
I think the stone you just sent me is this stone's baby brother!Quote:
Originally Posted by maxim207
That is extreme renge!
My first; Ozuku Mizu Asagi
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Oohira kiita(middle stone) next to oohita kiita(small stone) and next to chosera 3 for scale. I hope its as good as the smaller one. Will lap and try asap.
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Just got this one in the mail today. Can anyone interpret the kanji?
The stone is 8 1/4 x 2 1/2 x 1 7/16 thick. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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Newest stone, *very* happy with this one. Haven't yet tried on straights, but oustanding on knives
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Second most used for SR honing. Uneven results: both excellent and painful (it's me)
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I've gotten a couple of very good shaves off this stone. But it feels really gritty when sharpening. Great on chisels.
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Most Used for SR honing. Uneven results (really good, really bad) but generally better than the atagoyama. I've decided to focus on this stone and my technique on this stone before honing on the others. Plenty of knife/chisel/plane blade work for the others.
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This stone is much prettier in person, very subtle lines and colors. It's somewhat of a conundrum. It will shave a high end hand forged chisel to the point where it will pop a hair above the skin like a razor. But I have not yet been able to get a good shave off it.
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The binsui....what do I think about this? What I KNOW is that it takes too long for any of the fine stones to polish out the scratches from a Shapton red or melon. That would indicate that I need to a natural stone before the polisher. Thus, the aoto. However, it takes way too long for the aoto to erase the scratches from the DMT Red or even the DMT Green. So I need something in between the diamonds and aoto. That's why I got the binsui. From DMT Green to Binsui to Aoto to polish is faster than DMT Green to Aoto to polish. But it's still a bit slower than what I want. Especially since that DMT is 'chippy' on any japanese steel and on razors. Would it be faster to go DMT Green to Shapton Red, then step back to Aoto, then to Polish? I don't know. What I do know is that I definitely want that Hideriyama/Atagoyama/Suita/Nakayama edge when I'm shaving and working in gnarly african hardwoods. When I'm not totally settled on is the fastest path to get there.
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One more thought. The edges I get off of my Shapton stones is very good, and far more consistent that my jnat edges. But when the jnat edges are at their best, they are noticeably better than the Shapton edges. What I need to learn is getting that brilliant edge all the time. And faster, because my beard is similar to bubinga in terms of what they both do to an edge.
My nephew lived in Japan for 8 years and married a Japanese girl named Yuko. They live here in PA now. I sent them a photo of the j-nat for translation and this is what they came up with. Hope you find it interesting.
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The characters in the box say "Shohonzan Awasedo" (pron: Show hohn zahn awa say doe) and probably means the type of rock. After a bit of research, it appears as if this stone is igneous rock, more than likely having come from volcanic deposits near Kyoto, Japan. As far as texture is concerned, this stone is apparently smoother than others making it a rarer find. I'm guessing you probably know that info better than us. The other characters on the side (the bold, ornamented ones) simply say "Togi ishi" (pron: toegy ee she) which means honing stone. The characters around the four corners are difficult to read and unrecognizable to Yuko. On (again I'm assuming) the reverse side, it says "Shoubu san" which is the the name of the specific area where the stone was probably extracted. Yuko found a great explanation (literallly 30 seconds ago)...
"Natural Finish Whetstone(Japanese whetstone from Yamashiro,Kyoto)
Natural Finish Whetstone is appropriate for sharpening all kinds of blades such as a plane /chisel for carpenters specializing in temples and shrines and in wooden buildings, a plane/ chisel for carving and making furniture/fittings, medical knives, swords, cooking knives, bush knives, outdoor knives, axes, scissors for gardeners, sickles, scissors for barbers and knives for cutting dried kelps.
Natural Finish Whetstone is rare and exists only in an area from Kyoto to Shiga, Japan.
The whetstone is a gift from the earth that has been formed for 250 million years and an essential item for sharpening blades.
When you sharpen a blade with Natural Finish Whetstone, the blade will have a hard point on the end, clear division between the base metal and the steel and smoke look unlike a man-made with which you will have a shiny look.
You will see triangular sharpes when you examine a man-made whetstone under the microscope.
However, you will see elliptical shapes when you examine Natural Finish Whetstone. These natural shapes may harden a blade and make it possible to have a smoked look with clear division between the base metal and the steel. This assures sharpness.
This is the wonder of Natural Finish Whetstone that is not created by a man-made whetstone."
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"Shohonzan Awasedo" is something like True Mountain Sharpening stone/finishing stone.
Jerry,
the stamps are generic stamps that are put on stones of unknown mine of origin.
Now the real treat will be if the stone is a good razor finisher, are those tiny white dots Su or just nicks and punches from being moved in piles of other stones?
__________________________________________________ __Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
Finished a Torrey 6/8 that I got from you and an Easy Aces belonging to a barber. Both blades were used by licensed barbers on Thursday. Both got rave reviews. This stone seems to work well. I will be testing it for at least 10 more blades. I am doing 100 strokes with medium slurry from DMT 325 credit card. So far, so good. Thanks for selling me that Torrey. Great blade.
Hey Jerry. Possibly The Shoubu san could be Shoubu-Dani which is a well known quarry.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsell63
btw I doubt any awasedo is igneous as they are more shale based making them sedimentary. :shrug:
+1 on the Shoubudani!
They are usually great stones, I would say they are as good as the Nakayamas but for a better price, tho all prices on all jnats are going thru the roof right now.
Some Nakayamas can be much finer/harder than the Shoubudani but a lot are equally good and fine.
__________________________________________________ __Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
Stefan
White marks must be Su. The stone's surface is unblemished and undamaged.
Here I have one Ohira renge suita stone and one other unknown suita stone that is suitable for razors.
The Ohira is not used on razors because it is a little too soft. But on kitchenknifes it is a joy.
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one more cutie from Japan:
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Bump....keep posting pictures! FEEED THE BEAST!!!
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Nakayama karasu and okudu sunashi suita with chosera 1k for scale. Cropped the "ear" of the karasu for a true tomo. It does nothing for the hone, so why not?
Thats a SWEET lookin stone......Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikolay
I was stupid enough to sell my Okudo Karasu last summer :banghead: been missing it ever since.
Finally I picked up a new one, not an Okudo, but, unless I've been totally screwed, an Ozuku Asagi and Botan, Tenjyou, Mejiro and Tomo naguras.
Haven't had time to test drive it yet, been busy in the workshop getting some razors ready for honing :)
http://straightrazorpalace.com/membe...1-dsc-0002.jpg
Rune, looks like the new one has a touch of Karasu in the middle.
Yes, I've noticed, it also has a small spot by the lower edge. I wasn't sure wether it's enough to qualify as a Karasu or not, and the seller only described it as an Ozkou Asagi Lv5.Quote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
Would this be an Ozoku Asagi Karsu then? (Not that I care as long as I get the results I seek)
Not sure but your priority seems right :)
Hello everyone...
Im a beginner and have never honed a razor to date, but looking to start. I'm likely going to go with norton or naniwa for basic honing, but want a finishing stone as well. I have read heaps about the escher stones but the whole jap nat thing confuses me. What is the cheapest jap nat that will give a great final edge like the escher that everyone raves about? And where is the best place to source one from? I dont have the budget to buy a large collection like the beautiful stones in this thread, so if I were to buy one only to start with, as a finishing stone, what is the best stone considering finish/price? I would say my budget would be up to 200 give or take (if one can get something comparable to an escher for that price, otherwise I think I will have to wait until my budget affords a larger expenditure). Im sure there would be better stones well above that price but have to be realistic with my budget.
Cheers, Andrew
Get Suehiro Gokumyo 20k synthetic and you are set.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewJM
Jnats take money to find the right one for you.
Thanks...Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
Where does one purchase one at a fair price? Will need shipped to Australia.
Andrew
Tools from Japan sell them, they ship internationally.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewJM
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Takashima Myokakudani, Shinden Yama Renge Suita(4 lbs, LOL) and wakasa, okudu suita and nakayama kiita tomos.
oHHHHH, a 4lbs stone is awesome :)
The shinden is a beaut!
I have two questions in regards to the Tomo Naguras:
1. Some of you guys dug some grooves, I assume to help in producing the slurry, what did you use? One of those small round chain-saw file?
2. Is there a reason why you shouldn't lap all sides of the Tomo Naguras?
Thanks!
The grooves on nagura stones are to reduce the drag. It's hard to lap/produce slurry of you use its flat surface for that.
For me, I use the side of my stones to make those grooves. 1000 grit or finer. Don't use something that's too coarse, there is a rumor that, this way big particles can brake off the grooves of stone and ruin your edge.
For Tsushima nagura stones, there is a possibility to develop cracks, that's why they are sealed with lacquer, and, it's better not to lap them. For the rest, lapping requires time, and removes precious stone, so, do as you want, no reason at all.
