Thread: Beginner honing question

Yes use tape, as you are new, the tape will protect your spines from damage.

Personally I use tape all the time.

Originally Posted by Knife

That may be true, but as the razors edge is worked back and back, if the spine is perserved the whole time then that bevel will be significantly shorter in later years I would imagine. In other words when the razor is half its width, if the spine isn't hone away with the edge to keep that angle going, the bevels depth will be theoretically half its original depth. I don't know maybe thats good?

Once honed the razor then will only needs touch ups on a finishing stone say 2-3 times a year.
If you hone properly the razor will never be half its width, if a razor gets to half its width it will be unusable no matter tape or no tape.

Hi Knife,

The answer to your lapping/slurry stone question is this: get the DMT 325 plate for lapping and also use it to create slurry. A slurry stone is too small to establish a flat surface over the face of your hone. You can also get some wet-dry sandpaper and put it on your countertop, then lap against that. I've never done it that way, so don't know how long the sandpaper lasts. It's a good solution if you're an occasional honer.

Two surfaces rubbed against one another won't necessarily flatten one another (unless one of them is the indestructible DMT), because if one is slightly dished it will just wear a matching bowl into the other surface. The solution is to have three surfaces and work them in all the different combinations. The three surfaces should be close to the same in terms of how easily they erode... which is hard to gauge with your hones if you're new to them. Your best, and cheapest, solution in the long run is the DMT. The 6" continuous plate is what I use. It's smaller than many of my hones, but still big enough to give me good flattening coverage. I wouldn't use anything smaller, though, and wouldn't use a Harbor Freight or other bargain-priced diamond plate. I bought one around a year ago and am lucky I checked it with a straight edge before using it on my hones--it was NOT FLAT. That would have caused very expensive damage if I'd distorted my hone surfaces with it. I would have had to get a DMT or other quality plate and wear away that much more hone surface. It would literally have been money down the drain.

While you're learning to hone, use tape. Change the tape every time you change grits; it wears down with use. It's best to do your learning on a flea-market blade so you don't make your learning mistakes on your shaving blade. Get a decent old German blade in ugly scales--that'll keep it inexpensive. Don't get a cheap Gold Star or Kriegar or similar, because its steel probably won't take a shaving edge anyway.

Here's a post from about a week ago where I outlined my decision process about taping. The first reason, about fixing a warp or bad grind, is a judgement you learn to make. As Lynn pointed out, sometimes the blade's problem is a little greater than you could hone out. In those cases I think it's better to err toward protecting the spine. The spine is the razor's built-in honing jig, and if you wear it disproportionately you'll be stuck with high bevels forevermore. Unless, that is, you tape forever after.

Best wishes

Lots of good stuff to go with in this thread. I used tape my first year honing on all razors. I didn't have confidence in my ability and was afraid I'd cause excessive wear on the spine. After a year I began experimenting with honing without tape and now I almost never use it unless it is damascus or decorated spines. I would suggest you use it at least until you gain some proficiency with your honing. I've never used slurry with synthetic stones since I've never felt the need. Try it if you are so inclined.

Originally Posted by Knife

. . .
I got a little over a months worth of shaving in and about ten shaves with my current razor. Its shaving alright, but I feel it could be sharper. I'm new at this so I don't know. Now the bevel is deeper on one side of the blade then the other and just on one side even though its overall thicker on that side, it is thicker in some parts and thinner in others along the edge. Thats true for both sides. I would think the bevel should be even depth across the whole blade and the same depth on both sides of the blade. . . .

Don't do it.

If the two faces of the bevel meet in a sharp edge, all along the blade, the bevel is good.

Variations in the thickness of the blade near the edge, and very small warps in the blade, will result in bevel widths that vary along the edge. There's no problem with that.

If you try to "fix" that situation, you're more likely to ruin the edge, than to improve it.

Before using an 8K stone to make the edge sharper, try using a CrOxide pasted strop.

If CrOxide doesn't work, then an 8K stone should refresh the edge.

But, unless your razor has a perfectly-ground blade, and is absolutely un-warped, you won't get the perfectly even bevel faces you're looking for.

Charles

To answer your questions directly:

Yes, use tape.

Get a DMT 325. Most useful tool on my honing tool belt. Use it to lap and you will also create a slurry. Then you can use it to breadknife, and to set a rough bevel shape after breadknifing. Best $50 you'll ever spend on your honing set-up. I typically don't worry too much about slurry with synthetic stones...with a coticule, yes.

Don't obsess over the size of the bevel. As said before, it tends to depend on the grind of the razor and is almost an individual trait of each razor. What you should try to do is keep the bevel as even as possible, regardless of how small or large.

Just do the best you can. 90% of the "work" of honing happens at 325 or 1k, whatever you use to set bevels, you can't build a masterpiece without a good foundation.