Thread: Going from "factory" edge to shave-ready

I was reading over Glen's excellent commentary on honing here. It sparked some questions in my mind, as I often find myself in a category not listed: The person who often buys new production razors (Dovo / Wacker / Aust / etc.) and wants to take them from the factory spinning-wheel edge to something that is up to my standards for daily use.

I'm not a novice straight razor user. I've been straight shaving for years and effectively maintaining my edges with a collection of barber hones and a Chinese 12k stone. I know a good edge when I shave with one and know when an edge isn't quite there, though I'm not completely confident in what is missing from the edges that aren't up to par...

Up to this point, when I purchase a new-production razor, I typically send it out to a member to bring it to shave-ready and then fall into my maintenance routine.

If I were to move to doing this myself, what would the community suggest I use? The general consensus I've found on the forum is that the edges on the factory Dovo's, Wacker's, etc. tend to be sharp, but not finished. Would this indicate that the bevel quality is there and I could start at, say, 5k and go up from there? Or do I need to go all the way back to the beginning with a 1k or lower?

As always, I appreciate the community's input.

David, I dont care who honed it previously, I will set the bevel and know that it has been set. Start at the 1k. If we get the KC meet going, there will be enough people with rocks and experience to get you started.

Appreciate that, Kelly. Looking forward to it.

Hello Nun2Sharp!!! Haven't seen you around in a while and just wanted to say Hello. I have the same problem that Mr. David has and have a new Dovo that I do not want to mess up. I live in Tx. so I wont be able to make the KC meet but sure wish that I could and meet some of you folks and learn more about this straight shaving business. A lot of what I read needs clarification and there is no one to ask here. Wish they would get a meet going here in Tx. Well, take care and will talk to you another time. Sonny082

FWIW:

Buy some 1000-grit and 2000-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, and a piece of glass (or flat plastic) that's roughly hone-size.

If you find that your barber hones and/or 12K Chinese hone, aren't able to produce a clean bevel in a reasonable time, use the sandpaper for "coarse grinding", and finish the edge with your stones.

. . Charles

There is no cookie cutter approach to this. You have to test shave with the thing and look at the bevel. Maybe I've been lucky but of the new razors I've gotten very few have needed bevel reset. The ones that did really needed it but most of the others needed varying amounts of honing. Some just needed a quick touch-up on a high grit hone and some need more work on a coarser hone. You need to determine what it needs and that's important because you don't want to be one of those guys who gets a nice new razor that needs minimal work and starts hacking away at it.

I think that's one of the things I'll need to learn & work on. As I had eluded to, my weakest skill in all of this is determining what type of work needs to be done - be it resetting a bevel, sharpening, or polishing the final edge.

I know when it's "there", but when it isn't, it's difficult to know what the prescription should be to get it to fully shave-ready.

"Testing and checking" should be an integral part of honing, until you're _really_ experienced.

Get a 10x triplet jeweller's loupe, and a good light source.

If the bevel is bad, you'll be able to see the "bright spots" on the edge, and hone enough so that they disappear.

If the bevel is _really_ bad, you'll feel "rough spots" as you _very gently_ move the edge of your thumbnail along the edge of the razor. [you want very very light pressure for this test -- otherwise, you'll damage the edge. And _don't_ try it after final honing!!!]

Charles

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

"Testing and checking" should be an integral part of honing, until you're _really_ experienced.

Testing and checking are integral, period, experienced or not. The experienced may need fewer tests and less checking, but they do it none the less.

I have done this numerous times. I agree with the others who have said to go ahead and set the bevel. I walk it through the Naniwa series that Glen has talked about on this forum, but I also find that most factory edges are at least undamaged. It's not like doing a restoration or re-honing a blade that is worn. Honing a factory razor is a great learning experience. In fact, I "promoted myself" from Hone-ster to Honist by honing a new Dovo and sending it to one of the honemeisters here for evaluation and got a positive review, with some suggestions.

So I'd not say a factory edge just needs finishing, but setting the bevel would not be as hard as setting it on an eBay find or vintage razor with a frown or small chips. Then just walk it up the grits. I finish on a Naniwa 12K and then maybe 10 strokes on a diamond-pasted strop.