Thread: Going from "factory" edge to shave-ready

YMMV, but I think it is a case by case basis, no two are alike. You can watch a video on Youtube of the Solingen/Dovo factory, they basially show you start to finish. At the end, the razor has to pass the old hanging hair test. All the hairs at the Dovo factory are the same, so they have consistency. I believe they are brush hair, maybe boar, possibly badger...

I just picked up a few factory Dovo's, still sealed in the box. Checking the edge is important. I use a jeweler's loupe. The first one I opened wasn't that bad at all. All I did was some work on an Escher with a slurry, maybe 3 dilutions, and it's great.

The bevel looked good out of the box, This was the first time I ever got one still sealed, with the tape intact.
Could I have re set the bevel, sure, but I didn't need to, and I think less is more in this case. I always try to spare the wear on the blade.

MrD,

I tend to set all bevels I haven't set previously. It may not always be needed, but I have no doubts when I finish. 'That said, if you wanted to try just a touch-up, maybe some 8k work, then 12k. I have a c12k also. It was my only finisher for my first 6 mo. I have a Nani 12k now, and it was a HUGE step up. I can get sharp from the Chinese rock, but not smooth. Maybe other Chinese rocks are better at smooth than mine.

Perhaps the biggest response it to Kelly's mentioning a meet up. If at all possible, be there. Its very very helpful. Kelly has done more than a few blades, but that area will also likely have Mike and Sham there also. You'd be hard pressed to find a greater concentration of skill. Pay attention to where these guys appear to be heading to sit down, and make sure you're sitting nearby. Just the conversation will be very educational.

Lawsonstone!! 'Good to see you. You've been scarce lately and we're the poorer for it. 'Hope all is very well w/ you and yours.

Originally Posted by pinklather

MrD,

I tend to set all bevels I haven't set previously. It may not always be needed, but I have no doubts when I finish. 'That said, if you wanted to try just a touch-up, maybe some 8k work, then 12k. I have a c12k also. It was my only finisher for my first 6 mo. I have a Nani 12k now, and it was a HUGE step up. I can get sharp from the Chinese rock, but not smooth. Maybe other Chinese rocks are better at smooth than mine.

Perhaps the biggest response it to Kelly's mentioning a meet up. If at all possible, be there. Its very very helpful. Kelly has done more than a few blades, but that area will also likely have Mike and Sham there also. You'd be hard pressed to find a greater concentration of skill. Pay attention to where these guys appear to be heading to sit down, and make sure you're sitting nearby. Just the conversation will be very educational.

Lawsonstone!! 'Good to see you. You've been scarce lately and we're the poorer for it. 'Hope all is very well w/ you and yours.

I actually host the KC Meets (not every time, but often). Sham and the guys have been great to help with honing technique - and making me wish I had more stones!

Appreciate everyone's input. Validates a few things I was thinking and gives me some new ideas to chew on.

Originally Posted by MrDavid

I think that's one of the things I'll need to learn & work on. As I had eluded to, my weakest skill in all of this is determining what type of work needs to be done - be it resetting a bevel, sharpening, or polishing the final edge.

I know when it's "there", but when it isn't, it's difficult to know what the prescription should be to get it to fully shave-ready.

I don't have much experience with wackers, but the typical factory edge dovo has microchips on the edge that you need to hone out. You can do that with a 4000 level grit hone like norton or naniwa and a bit of work. It's faster to use 1000 hone, but it's not necessary, especially since you'll be doing this very infrequently, so even taking half an hour or an hour for the bevel work isn't going to be a problem. Slurry speeds things a lot too.

It takes a lot of time to become good at evaluate the condition of the edge. A very cheap shortcut is a high quality microscope, so that you can see the condition of the edge. I think on a good day you can find a nice vintage one for say $50-$100. If you can see the moment when the edge gets overhoned on that 4000 grit level that'll save you tens of hours of experimentation. I don't think a loupe or radioshack microscope can do that. I have high quality optics microscope and it's very hard to see it even on a photograph, but looking carefully directly it is quite clear when the edge starts to break apart.

If you're interested I can probably dig up some photographs of those factory edges and how they should look after they're honed, although you can see these things in person next time you guys have a meeting - just ask one of them to bring their microscope.

I am a newbe to the razor sharpening game ane have found that every razor is different and there is no set rule to sharpening a razor.

All my razors are from ebay and I have a good collection of junk but that is sometimes handy to try new things. ( I also have some really good blades as well)

I have found that I start with a finer stone rather than going to a course stone from the start. Working backwards has really been enlightening to some point.

Something you might try is if in question, mark the bevel with a shaprie and make a few passes and see what the wear pattern is and you might get some insight into what you need to do next.

If yuo can afford a microscope ...get one...you will never regrete it.

Here is a link to a good one that isn't too expensive for what you get

3.5-90X STEREO ZOOM INSPECTION MICROSCOPE, 80 LED LIGHT | eBay

Stingray

Originally Posted by stingray

I am a newbe to the razor sharpening game ane have found that every razor is different and there is no set rule to sharpening a razor.

All my razors are from ebay and I have a good collection of junk but that is sometimes handy to try new things. ( I also have some really good blades as well)

I have found that I start with a finer stone rather than going to a course stone from the start. Working backwards has really been enlightening to some point.

Something you might try is if in question, mark the bevel with a shaprie and make a few passes and see what the wear pattern is and you might get some insight into what you need to do next.

If yuo can afford a microscope ...get one...you will never regrete it.

Here is a link to a good one that isn't too expensive for what you get

3.5-90X STEREO ZOOM INSPECTION MICROSCOPE, 80 LED LIGHT | eBay

Stingray

500$ for a mircoscope solely for honing? I woud rather buy a 20$ loupe, a Veho, and for the remaining 400$ a big and beautiful Jnat

My only new blade was a Dovo stainless, professionally honed, and it turns out I cannot hone it myself. The honemeister must have done all sorts of tricks with localized pressure; I've yet to get the bevel set so it will hone properly. I suspect warpage, and don't want to mess around with a little extra pressure here or there. I just want to hone properly like all my others. The razor dealer of my dreams is now one who will let me bring my hones and give the blade a test-hone, not just a test shave.

So yes, I agree, a first honing of a new blade should start with a bevel reset. That way you know.