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Thread: New Coti and a Norton

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth Hirlau's Avatar
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    Congrats on the honing journey. I use a JB8 on my hatchets, axes and my machetes. It's a workhorse stone and cheap. I even finish with a beat up old Swaty. I'm going to go out on a limb here, after checking grit comparison charts that I have and I put the fine side of that JB8 at around 600 to 800 grit. Far too rough for me to use on my razors. I cannot find where Norton gives me an exact rating on the fine side of the JB8.
    Point being; it will set a bevel, but how much steel are you removing when using a JB8 on a razor?
    A thought to be considered.
    I stick with the Norton waterstones for the razors, in setting bevels. Just the way I do it, but still learning.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Hirlau's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Havachat45 View Post
    Glen has three 'one stone honing' videos IIRC and I'm not sure in which one he explains the use of two hones (it could be the Thuringian) - in essence the 1k (king, chosera, norton, whatever) is the bevel setter.
    This is the basis of the edge - if the bevel isn't set right, you're wasting your time and effort going any further.
    See if you can find all of them and have a look - the process is the same on any hone that you choose to use, if you are going the one stone route.
    I have watched Glen's videos many times and get more information every time I do (and I don't own Shaptons or Nortons or Naniwas). I think it has to do with understanding the process of honing rather than the mechanics.
    I have chosen to use tape on the spine of all my razors, however, it is a personal thing - I don't like the idea of restoring a blade only to put hone wear back on it, but that's just me.I hope this helps.
    I agree, tape on all my spines; through the entire process. I remove to strop.
    Remove as little steel as possible and protect what you can. This is what I have learned.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member eflatminor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hirlau View Post
    Congrats on the honing journey. I use a JB8 on my hatchets, axes and my machetes. It's a workhorse stone and cheap. I even finish with a beat up old Swaty. I'm going to go out on a limb here, after checking grit comparison charts that I have and I put the fine side of that JB8 at around 600 to 800 grit. Far too rough for me to use on my razors. I cannot find where Norton gives me an exact rating on the fine side of the JB8.
    Point being; it will set a bevel, but how much steel are you removing when using a JB8 on a razor?
    A thought to be considered.
    I stick with the Norton waterstones for the razors, in setting bevels. Just the way I do it, but still learning.
    I was wondering what the grit rating might be. Your right about it taking away a lot of steel but then I only needed less than 10 passes and she was ready to go for the Coti. That said, if I go to set a bevel again, I'll get a 1k stone. Overall it was fun and a joy to shave to with a razor I honed myself.
    gssixgun and Havachat45 like this.

  4. #14
    Senior Member eflatminor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    The "One Stone Hone" name is because that is what you use once the bevel is set, or if the razor was previously shaving... You can, on most of the stones use them for a bevel setter also, with the judicious use of slurry stones.. I like my 1k's for that job.
    I had a question for you. Those clamps you were using looked like they helped keep the stones stable nicely. Would you recommend them? If so, who makes them?

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    Senior Member Havachat45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eflatminor View Post
    I had a question for you. Those clamps you were using looked like they helped keep the stones stable nicely. Would you recommend them? If so, who makes them?
    They work a treat - I've just got two of them (one for the DMT and one for the other hones) from Amazon@ around US$14 ea+ shipping.
    They are made by Steelex, I think.
    All I have to do now is hone in my bathroom and say 'at this point in time' a lot and I should be great at honing....hehehehe
    Sorry Glen
    Hang on and enjoy the ride...

  6. #16
    Senior Member eflatminor's Avatar
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    Of course, you guys are right. I picked up a 1k to set a bevel...without eating up all the steel. I bought the King. Any thoughts on getting the most from this stone? From what I'm told, one uses water, not oil. Should I work up a slurry similarly to my Coti? I figured I'd use my DMT 350 for that purpose. Any suggestions welcome.
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  7. #17
    Not with my razor 🚫 SirStropalot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eflatminor View Post
    I had a question for you. Those clamps you were using looked like they helped keep the stones stable nicely. Would you recommend them? If so, who makes them?
    Here's a link where I purchased mine. If they have one of their stores in your area they usually have them in stock. I wouldnt be without mine. Good Luck, Howard
    http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...e-Holders.aspx
    Last edited by SirStropalot; 11-28-2011 at 10:35 PM.

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    Senior Member eleblu05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eflatminor View Post
    I was wondering what the grit rating might be. Your right about it taking away a lot of steel but then I only needed less than 10 passes and she was ready to go for the Coti. That said, if I go to set a bevel again, I'll get a 1k stone. Overall it was fun and a joy to shave to with a razor I honed myself.
    it's around 400 grit on the fine side .

  9. #19
    Member TZee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eflatminor View Post
    I was wondering what the grit rating might be. Your right about it taking away a lot of steel but then I only needed less than 10 passes and she was ready to go for the Coti. That said, if I go to set a bevel again, I'll get a 1k stone. Overall it was fun and a joy to shave to with a razor I honed myself.
    You do not have to have or use a 1k to set a bevel in every situation. A Coticule with milky slurry can also set a bevel, but it's usually slower than using a 1k. It depends on the type of steel of the razor and the speed of the Coticule. You'll get a smoother shave if you set the bevel on the Coticule, or if you set the bevel on a 1k, don't leave too sharp before going to the Coticule.

    It all comes down to your skin type and the type of edge you enjoy. Another thing that I'll occasionally do, and something that Glenn is not a fan of, I'll set the bevel on the 1k getting it sharp enough to effortlessly cut arm hair, and then I'll softly dull it on a glass bottle/cup/etc, and then set the bevel on a Coticule with milky slurry. I then follow that up with lighter slurry and dilutions. My skin may be more sensitive than yours, so it suits me well.

  10. #20
    Master of insanity Scipio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hirlau View Post
    I put the fine side of that JB8 at around 600 to 800 grit. Far too rough for me to use on my razors.
    If it is closer to the latter I wouldn't say it was necessarily too coarse for use on razors, though I agree there are better options. I still use a King 800 to set bevels and its great. I never felt the need to venture beyond it and purchase a Chosera.

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