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Thread: Wooden base on a JNat
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01-30-2012, 09:06 PM #11
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Thanked: 459The base is quartersawn (or close to it). I wouldn't worry about cracking or warping with it. I don't know that I'd lacquer it, either, unless you know you've absolutely gotten it sealed all the way around in every single crevice. Otherwise, the lacquer may end up holding water in on some parts of it instead of keeping it out.
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01-30-2012, 09:12 PM #12
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Thanked: 21I am basing my opinions on my experience with the wood building decks, replacing old decks, and building play sets for kids in the past. Not sure if it is red cedar, as you cited. Even if it is waterproofed, it tends to rot after a few years, especially if moisture is trapped in it. A perfect place for moisture to get trapped is between the hone and the wood. I've heard that for Jnats, prolonged moisture is not a good thing.
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01-30-2012, 10:02 PM #13
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Thanked: 2591My cedar bases are going strong for over a year now, in Japan they use Ho wood which is similar to cedar in grain structure and seems to work well. Apart from the wood aspect, water does nothing to a J-nat, one can soak them and they will be just fine. I have soaked mine for days and have not had any issues, the trick is not to expose to extreme heat or cold while drying.
Stefan
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01-30-2012, 10:19 PM #14
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Thanked: 459I haven't used cedar, but I've used kingwood, cocobolo and walnut.
Combination of natural and artificial stones - going on 5 years now and no issues.
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01-30-2012, 10:24 PM #15
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Thanked: 2591
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01-30-2012, 10:29 PM #16
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Thanked: 459Yes, it is. Sorry, didn't want to suggest that people should run out and buy kingwood and cocobolo. I had it around in "shorts" that weren't fit for anything else, excpet maybe to turn into pens (and I didn't want to do that).
I live down the road from a Rockler, and they sometimes have exotics in a clearance bin (well, they used to. I haven't seen much recently). Maybe for all of the stones, I used about $30 worth of wood. Compared to the value of the stones, a small amount, and the mass of the wood is nice to help keep the stones on the bench and not flying across the shop.
I didn't "do" any really expensive stones or any natural stones over an inch thick - those don't generally need a base. But the little ones and the shapton pros are great candidates for the cocobolo and the kingwood. The kingwood almost feels like it's waxed, even though it has no finish on it.
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01-30-2012, 10:30 PM #17
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Thanked: 459Of course, now that it's eons later...i might rather have saved some of that kingwood for scales, but that was several years ago that I blew through it.
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01-30-2012, 10:52 PM #18
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Thanked: 21I'm talking more like 5 or more years of repeated, frequent exposure to water, as a regular honer might. I don't know of any wood that would rot out in a year, unless it has trapped moisture.
I'm interested in what you know about Jnats and water. When I bought my Jnat from Alex, he had typed up some "Care for your JNat" instructions. One was that only distilled water should be used on it. Another was that there are natural salts in the stone, and prolonged exposure to water will erode the stone.
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01-30-2012, 10:53 PM #19
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01-31-2012, 01:32 AM #20
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Thanked: 2591You can soak the stones in water and nothing happens ( I soaked mine for 4 days), in Japan the guys that do sword polishing keep their stones in buckets with water.
The strata had formed on the bottom of the sea for millions of years, then after many millions of years migration ended up where they are now above the surface, so you can say they have been exposed to water naturally. Soaking the stones doe snot really benefit anything except for the really really hard ones, just soaking in water for some period of time does not damage them.
As far as distilled water etc, there is no evidence pro or against it, use what you like. My water here is with very low calcium content and works great, I do not know if in Japan they use DI water or not, I have seen on many videos they just splash from a bucket.Stefan