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Thread: Bevel setting and speed vs grit

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    Senior Member justinA's Avatar
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    Onimaru thanks for the info, with knives right before I move from one stone to the other I do this odd thing where I let the metal build up a little and use a much lighter stroke I've found it helps smooth out before moving up a grit. I don't think I'll be trying my trick with razors tho.

    Dwarvenchef, yes I'm a sushi chef and most of my knives are quite hard, but I'm good at keeping them sharp with minor touch ups and not bashing them, I'm also a little OCD about keeping my stones flat and chambered. I'm collecting razors that are ok but not jems to learn these stonesstones on and to learn to restore.

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinA View Post
    Onimaru thanks for the info, with knives right before I move from one stone to the other I do this odd thing where I let the metal build up a little and use a much lighter stroke I've found it helps smooth out before moving up a grit. I don't think I'll be trying my trick with razors tho.
    No problemo.
    So do you find the swarf build up trick smoothes the edge or the bevel polish. I do tend to clean the stone rather than hone over swarf with razors but I have minimal knife experience.

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    Senior Member justinA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    No problemo.
    So do you find the swarf build up trick smoothes the edge or the bevel polish. I do tend to clean the stone rather than hone over swarf with razors but I have minimal knife experience.
    I keep the stone very clean rinsing it regularly until just before I switch grits then I let the swarf build up taking off the excess by running the blade all the way off the end of the stone(essentially shoveling the excess onto my knife) every 5-10 seconds. Whenever I draw the blade past the end of the stone I rinse my knife. I find this method polishes te blade by keeping the swarf level high without it balling up and causing the knife to jump. The polish off the 5k can be close to the 8k with light enough strokes in this method IME

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    Senior Member justinA's Avatar
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    Pinned my first razor tonight, an antelope diamond steal full hollow. Today was also the first time I got to run through the whole set of Shaptons with a razor, and it went really well. I set the bevel on the 2k with some slurry, took a while to get it even but this had no sign of a bevel, next time I'll try the norton and see how it goes.

    I did sets of 40 circles, and 20-40 x's, one set of 20 circles on the 5k followed by 40x's then 5 spine leading x's and 10 regular x's, went to the 8k and did 3 sets of 20 x's, went to the LM with moderate but not muddy slurry wiping the blade every 10 x's then adding a light sprits of water for 40 x's, 10 laps on .5 cromium oxide on webbing, 40 webbing and 80 leather.

    I havent shaved with it other than a small patch of half day stubble on my chin with just water witch shaved easily. I always goof around and try the HHT but have never gotten anything but slight resistance, this razor was passing HHT-4 3/4 of the blade and HHT-3 for the front 1/4, kinda cool. I am putting absolutely no expectations on this razor just, if it shaves well awesome, if not, back to the hones.

    post script: I like the semi hard yet smooth feel of the pros, whats weird is the 5k feels slicker than the 8k under the blade.

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinA View Post
    post script: I like the semi hard yet smooth feel of the pros, whats weird is the 5k feels slicker than the 8k under the blade.
    You've obviously used the stones a lot with knives. Maybe you're just finding your feet with them on razors ?
    I remember a thread where guys noticed the 12k had some rough spots. I had noticed that with the 8k GS & the Pro also but seemed to clear up with a little lapping.

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    Senior Member justinA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    You've obviously used the stones a lot with knives. Maybe you're just finding your feet with them on razors ?
    I remember a thread where guys noticed the 12k had some rough spots. I had noticed that with the 8k GS & the Pro also but seemed to clear up with a little lapping.

    This is literally the first time I've used anything except the 2k on a razor I think it was just a good razor and I went paranoidly slow.
    I don't mean there is a rough spot I mean my 8k has a smooth but resistant stroke, the 5k is smooth as glass like I'm using a very thin oil. If I didn't know I would think the 5k was the finisher it feels smoother than my select coticule or my LM, but the scratch pattern is distinctively coarser. It's very odd.

    Also i am assuming I have the american formula since I got them from chefsknivestogo

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    I'd agree with that description of the 2 stones. I think the 8 may be slightly softer than the 5.
    The 12 or in your case the 15k seems softer again but doesn't quite have the 'gummy' feel of the 8 tho the 12 does have a bit of 'bite' or resistance.

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    Carbon-steel-aholic DwarvenChef's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinA View Post
    Onimaru thanks for the info, with knives right before I move from one stone to the other I do this odd thing where I let the metal build up a little and use a much lighter stroke I've found it helps smooth out before moving up a grit. I don't think I'll be trying my trick with razors tho.

    Dwarvenchef, yes I'm a sushi chef and most of my knives are quite hard, but I'm good at keeping them sharp with minor touch ups and not bashing them, I'm also a little OCD about keeping my stones flat and chambered. I'm collecting razors that are ok but not jems to learn these stonesstones on and to learn to restore.
    Cool My knives are Japanese as well, yes keeping them and the stones in good shape will serve you well here Your understanding of edge geomitry will allow you to get the hang of this much faster, but it is quite different than sharpening a yanagi lol

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