Thread: Shun/Kai 300/1k

I've a noob and have been sending razors out to get honed. I've been quite satisfied with the results but I think I would like to improve my honing skills. I acquired a WB that had a nick in the center of the blade that was so old that it had rusted through to the other side, easily a full 1/16" deep. It wasn't expensive so I approached it as a teaching tool. I have a Shun/Kai 300/1K stone for kitchen knives and a Norton 4k/8k combo for finishing. Also .5 and .25 diamond on felt paddle strops.

After lapping the stones and taping up the spine (which I since learned probably had to much tape on the tang which explains why the heel wasn't sharpening), I took off enough on the 300k to get rid of the pit and down to new steel, a couple of hours later. Then with computer and youtube videos playing in the background, I used an assortment of strokes to get a bevel set on the 1K before moving up to the Nortons. The microscope showed that there still some pitting on the bevel that just didn't want to come out (probably the tape).

After a couple of passes on the diamond spray and 50 laps on the strop, I ended up with an almost acceptable shave.

Knowing that the vast majority of the probelms lay with my lack of technique, could the Shun be a factor in bevel setting? I searched and see few references to Shun/Kai stones and a lot more with Choseras, Shaptons, Norton 1K. Do folks shun the Shuns or are they just not the right tool for the right job?

I doubt that I'm going to get into restorations or do a lot of honing but it would be acquiring a new skill.

I don't think the shun stone is the problem. I think you actually said your problem. You looked under the microscope and saw pitting on the bevel. You need to just go back down to ether the 300 or 1K and get that pitting out before you will be able to get the edge constantly sharp. Your edge needs to be all fresh steel to take and keep a razor edge. The rest is just practice practice practice.

bevel setting is 90% of the work you have to get all the pitting out . how many layers of tape are you using ? have you looked in to rolling x strokes ?

Originally Posted by DGilloon

After lapping the stones and taping up the spine (which I since learned probably had to much tape on the tang which explains why the heel wasn't sharpening)

You don't hone on the tang so the amount of tape there is irrelevant. More likely the stabiliser was in the way or if it was a wedge then it was maybe just worn that way. The heels were very rarely ideal in older razors.


Knowing that the vast majority of the probelms lay with my lack of technique, could the Shun be a factor in bevel setting? I searched and see few references to Shun/Kai stones and a lot more with Choseras, Shaptons, Norton 1K. Do folks shun the Shuns or are they just not the right tool for the right job?

If the Shun stones are for their kitchen knives they may be less than ideal for razors but often you can make do. I used the Kasumi stones for a while which are made for their kitchen knives & they are very soft which meant a lot of lapping compared to harder stones.

Thank you, you are correct, I meant to say stabilizer. Radio Shack Microscope died so I'll need to replace that. When I do, I'll start by adding 3 pieces of tape to the blade until I can get down to good, clean steel that is even all the way across. I also just noticed that it has a hollow spine, with a single stabilizer, the first of my collection with one. The dip in the spine from the shoulder to the point is about 1/8". This would indicate that rolling x strokes would be the only stroke to use, correct?

Originally Posted by DGilloon

The dip in the spine from the shoulder to the point is about 1/8". This would indicate that rolling x strokes would be the only stroke to use, correct?

Maybe not the only stroke but certainly a useful one. Is that a chip at the heel ?

No just a bad pic. The steel is clear of pits and nicks now to the naked eye however the bevel is not even on either side.

What would your progression be for a razor like this in this condition? Back to the 300 and then what?

I usually start restores on the Shapton pro 320 if the edge warrants it. I may use the 1k,1.5k,2k,5k, 8k progression after that.
Finishing can vary between 12k ,coticule or Jnats but most likely coti or Jnats.

Thank you for your help. Back to the 300k.

Seems to be no/little wear on the spine. Is it the same on both sides. If so & the bevel is uneven it would not appear to be a warped razor. The grind could be "off" at the edge tho. Keep us updated.