Thread: Naniwa Chosera 400 vs Shapton glass 500 for rough work

I've used the well worn DMT325 for chips, breadknifing, etc...I can't speak for the low grit Shaptons, but I have used Naniwa, and found them to be too soft. I used the Norton 220k, but found the DMT to be faster.

Originally Posted by DaveW

The SP400 and king 300 are probably both good stones, the chosera 400 is fine. They're great for tools, but I wouldn't like to use them on razors.

I have to disagree here, the SP 400 is a really hard stone for the grit, and works great on razor, no edge tears and very fast.

I bought a Niawia 400 just for restoration and it is soft for heavy grinding. I use the DMT 325 to grind, then an India Stone or Washita to refine, then the 400 to knock of the burrs… then the Norton or Niawia 1000. I am really liking that Niawia 1000 over the Norton, it does slurry more though.

I agree with Glen, the Niawia 400 is great for knives, it can clean up an edge in a hurry.

The 400 can be used for razor restoration, but there are better alternatives. The 400 really shines for knives when paired a 1000. My wife is a knife edge beater.

I haven't used either stone. But here's another vote for an old reliable India stone. I've been using the same one for this type of stuff for over a year, and it looks the same as the day I got it...Except for some embedded steal ofc. I clean it after every use though, so it's not so bad. It's what I use for heel recontouring, fixing frowns, and breadknifing very large chips out of razors. Bonus is it comes in at about 12 bucks I think.

When I have heavy repair work to do like fixing chips, chunks, heel spikes and frowns, a Naniwa 220 is my go to stone. It does not generate the heavy slurry other stones do and is only mildly thirsty. I hold the razor on the spine and do circles or chisel strokes at a 45 degree angle so that when I go back to the bevel setting I am not starting from scratch. If the damage is severe, I will use a DMT 325, but I save it for the heavier work as it is super aggressive. A lot of times after the DMT 325, I will use the 400 to transition to the 1K.

Have fun,

Lynn

When I talk about repair work like removing a chip, frown or pit I breadknife/grind heel to toe and side to side with the edge 90 degrees to the stone. Then with the spine between thumb and forefinger and blade about 45-60 degrees side to side to knock off the corners, what I think Lynn is talking about. I get to where the chip is almost removed then go to the India or Washita to remove the burr and begin to refine the bevel.

Grinding 90 degrees to the stone would cut the 400, but not a DMT, Washita or India. The 400 does quickly grind a new bevel. I also use 2 pieces of tape to protect the spine.

Originally Posted by jeness

To be honest I would use them to start the edges on my own razors I started to make from scratch

I have to remove a lot of steel sometimes to look at the bevels, so that I know where I have to grind the steel thinner at the edge. Also, after finish grinding, I have to go from no bevel to a usable bevel which I can take to a 1k stone, and I would like to minimize the time involved.

He just needed a heavy fast cutter, so my recommendation and why, is no longer valid...

Seems just about any of the stones mentioned will work honestly.. Between the two you asked about I would probably nod to the Naniwa 400 but both would do the job you are asking for...

I'm confused here, are some people talking about the naniwa 400 superstone instead of the chosera? the chosera 400 is not particularly soft, I'd have more of a problem with razors keeping it cutting fast by abrading the surface than I would with it being too soft.

I haven't used the 400 superstone.

I still would rather use a medium india, because it's about the same grit as those stones but it's harder. And it's really cheap, so you don't have to worry about taking care of it at all.

Originally Posted by DaveW

I'm confused here, are some people talking about the naniwa 400 superstone instead of the chosera? the chosera 400 is not particularly soft, I'd have more of a problem with razors keeping it cutting fast by abrading the surface than I would with it being too soft.

Several conversations are going on, myself when I answered the first time I was assuming he was needing a "Razor Restoration Hone", which he was not, after his second post he clarified and just needs a fast cutting stone for heavy duty honing... This changed the entire need base .. many people missed that post and are answering each other rather than Jeness...

He could use about any low grit cutter for his needs.... every recommendation is now a good one...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

He could use about any low grit cutter for his needs.... every recommendation is now a good one...

I agree...