Thread: Atoma diamond plates for lapping

Yeah, I've never seen Atomas that were anything but the thin sheet glued to the thick plate. I'm not saying the others don't exist, but I am not aware of them.

I have an Atoma 160, 400, and 1200. They seem to be sufficiently flat for my uses but I have not done anything more elaborate than hold a straight edge up to them to check for flatness.

Honestly, I held off on buying the Atomas because I did not like the idea of what I thought to be the flimsy thin layer on the plate, but they have far exceeded my expectations. I only used mine for honing and never have used them for lapping.

i own several DMT and atoma and i can say that at least in the ones i used the atoma seem to be flatter

I have the dmt and atoma. The dmt is heavy and needs a stone holder to use reasonably. The atoma I got 1 plate and the replacement foil to make a dual 400/1200. I find that the 400 atoma is better than the dmt and use the 1200 for slurry on nats or smoothing finishing stones. The atoma is also light and can easily be used by hand.

Originally Posted by eddy79

I have the dmt and atoma. The dmt is heavy and needs a stone holder to use reasonably. The atoma I got 1 plate and the replacement foil to make a dual 400/1200.

hah! excellent, that's preciselly the combo I ordered, the 1200 and a 400 extra plate.. and it seems it's versatile enough to use for producing slurry (the 400 side) and for laping finishing stones:

Originally Posted by eddy79

I find that the 400 atoma is better than the dmt and use the 1200 for slurry on nats or smoothing finishing stones. The atoma is also light and can easily be used by hand.

but it's also good for honing:

Originally Posted by Utopian

I held off on buying the Atomas because I did not like the idea of what I thought to be the flimsy thin layer on the plate, but they have far exceeded my expectations.

for setting bevels:

Originally Posted by Jimbo

I also use the 1200 to set bevels.

and I guess you can even do some heavy repairs of geometry with the 400?


Also, warnings:
Must be careful according to bobski, of not using the 1200 for lapping, but Steve and onimaru seems to be having good results, so i guess this part at least is "do it under your own risk:

Originally Posted by bobski

I emailed Stuart Tierney at Tools from Japan, a person I have dealt with many times re purchases, who said, 'If you are putting this near any of my stones (Gokumyo Suehiro's) you will void the warranty of both the lapping plate and your 20 K Suehiro'.....bang. I was told in no uncertain terms, 'Don't use it.
[....]Quote (from Stuart Tierney [email protected])

""I have the pictures and high value $$$bills to say it's a bad idea!"
[...]
"The Atoma #1200 is a good bit of kit, but with the diamonds relatively small, the nickel plating has a hard time holding onto them and they can dislodge from the plate contaminating the stone, wearing out the Atoma very quickly and causing more problems than anyone wants or needs. This plate is better suited to steel, (Hard steel)."
[...]
"The Atoma #400 is better suited, Just run it over a few coarse stones to take off the high spots, then you'll be all set with it. It'll flatten the fine stones well leaving a smooth finish."

Originally Posted by Steve56

My experience has been that you can compromise an Atoma 1200 with heavy pressure and thick slurry when flattening stones.I did some research after it started misbehaving, and if you use it for heavy duty flattening, be sure to do so under running water or at least be careful to never feel the slurry thickening.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I've been lapping my expensive jnats & 8k & above stones with the 1200 Atoma at least 5 years & my friend So Yamashita from Japan-Tools, who in fact, introduced Jnats to western forums & later the Atoma plates, has done so for over a decade & recommends it.

it seems like Stuart Tierney himself confirms the 400 is OK to use as lapping stone so if you actually have it.. why would you need a 325 grit? but OH WELL... I guess you can always buy a DMT325 (D8C) for higher grits OR just stick to the 400grit and not finishing... on the Atoma 1200 BUT maybe just use the Norton 1K (or any other about this grit) lapped by the Atoma 400 or the D8C for finishing lapping the high grits and then lap again the 1K, (you know use that water stone for your higher gits and leave the Atoma 1200 for steel only....)

My humble opinion from reading many other replies on different boards (and, what I will do for a good while, since i already ordered the Atoma 400/1200 combo, and have no money for a DMT325, unless i sacrifice the beers of several weekends (which is a bi NO-NO), is to lap with the Atoma 400 (ANY WET STONE) till flattening, and then you can use the 1200 just to remove deep coarse scratches and smooth the surface a bit using the Atoma 1200 using light pressure and under running water. There should not be damage to any of the stones if you use VERY LIGTH&GENTLE PRESSURE.

BTW, I think many people often think that ANY diamond plate should not suffer any damage if you rub something on them with a LOT of pressure.. this might be true for a baked potato, but if it's steel (or a wetstone for the matter), you better be gentle or you'll be loosing money (diamonds) with every stroke.

At any rate, there is debate for lapping high grit stones using the 1200, be aware!

I think for most of us lapping the higher grits is just a trueing/refreshing of the surface not a true lapping. Just light pressure as they are pretty much there just very lightly out from use. All real lapping is done by coarser stone like the 400 and 1200 just smooths the surface. I also use it for slurry on nats but again just really light pressure to generate some slurry. Trying to more could definitely damage the plate. Then again trying to lap hard nats like arks etc have damaged 400 and 325 as well so if you use any of them you just need to use for the appropriate purpose and you should be good.