Hello everybody!

I tried to get into wet shaving years ago, but it was a brief affair. I bought a Dovo, tried it a few times, it was very uncomfortable to shave with, so I put it away. I was in the Marines, and needed a perfect shave every day, which was incompatible with the learning curve of using a straight razor. Now I know why it was horrible - it was never honed. I have been adding elements of wet shaving to my routine over the years - a brush and soap, then recently a DE, and now some straights.

I bought a supposedly shave ready razor off of ebay - a W&B quarter hollow 6/8 shoulderless razor. A real beauty, but it kind of sucked to shave with. This was my first try with an SR in quite a while, so it was probably technique. I do want to learn how to hone, so I figured I'd go at it and see how comfy I could get this blade. I just bought a house last month, so I can't really afford to go hone-crazy, so I went the lapping film route.

The W&B:

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I tried putting a new edge on the W&B, and it was definitely better than when I first got it, but still pulling and irritating. I tried setting the bevel and polishing the edge a few different times with varying results. I did a bunch of shaves, honing in-between each one, with varying results. I know now that the edge quality is the culprit - my technique is at least good enough that I can get a passable, cut-free shave, even with a slightly tugging and pulling edge. I am prepping correctly (DE shaves with the same prep are super comfy), and I am using the correct blade angles and zero pressure. The edge is where my problem is; it's 90% there, and my gut is telling me that I'm either doing too much of one step, or not enough, and that one little change will get the edge comfortably sharp.

It really is a beautiful object, and I have a deep appreciation for elegant, well-maintained, well-used tools. I also think the knowledge and skill gained from maintaining a tool adds to your enjoyment and skill in using it, and I really would like to put an enjoyable edge on the thing.

It has a pretty pronounced (and intentional) smile to the blade, and does not sit flat on the honing surface, so I have to use an x-stroke while honing. The part where the spine transitions into the tang overhangs the blade a bit, which makes the honing angle much more obtuse at the heel. This can be mitigated a bit by starting the honing stroke at an angle, by contacting the heel of the blade and the middle area of the spine. This is cumbersome, and I haven't really seen this type of stroke used in the honing videos I've seen. I have also tried setting the bevel while ignoring this change in angle, but the edge wants to catch on the film, and the heel never really turns out as good as the rest of the blade.

The Dovo:
I took it apart, cleaned off the rust, sanded out the pitting, polished the blade and replaced the scales. Now it's all pretty and ready to be honed, and I suspect it will be way easier than the W&B. I think it's carbon steel, as opposed to the stainless steel of the W&B (at least that's what I think they're made out of).

So, here's what I have to work with:
3m films - 12, 9, 3, 1, and .3 microns
nice flat chunks of marble
a green / red pasted balsa strop from whipped dog (thank you so much for the hookup, Larry! what an awesome guy!)
A whipped dog poor man's strop, conditioned with neatsfoot oil
an old leather / linen strop that I got during my first SR stint about 7 years ago (the leather might be dried out? Also it's got a good slice in it. The canvas side is good though.

So - what do you gents suggest? Here come the questions:
What grit should I use to set the bevel?
Any special stroke / technique for getting around the geometry of the spine -> tang transition?
About how many laps at each grit?
How do I know when I've done enough at one grit, and am ready to move down?
What grit is low enough on the films?
How many laps on the green balsa? should I even bother with the red side?
How many laps on the leather and/ or canvas?

I've read a ton of honing articles and threads, and have tried most of the stuff in each one. The problem is, there are so many variables that it would take me forever to find what works. Experimentation is not working for me, because I have no 'control,' so to speak. Using my equipment and trial and error it could take a looong time to find even a decent, reliable baseline.

I would greatly appreciate it if you generous folks would give me a progression that I could use as a starting point - something like 'set the bevel with the 12u, using this specific stroke, and stop when it passes x test. do x laps on 9u, x on 3u, and x on 1u, a dozen laps on the green strop and then 100 on the leather.' I know no-one will be able to give me the secret formula for my specific tools/razor/hands, but it will at least get me in the ballpark. Right now I am in the weeds!

Thank you all so much in advance,
-Andrew