Thread: Can anyone recommend a honing routine for the supplies I have?

Hello everybody!

I tried to get into wet shaving years ago, but it was a brief affair. I bought a Dovo, tried it a few times, it was very uncomfortable to shave with, so I put it away. I was in the Marines, and needed a perfect shave every day, which was incompatible with the learning curve of using a straight razor. Now I know why it was horrible - it was never honed. I have been adding elements of wet shaving to my routine over the years - a brush and soap, then recently a DE, and now some straights.

I bought a supposedly shave ready razor off of ebay - a W&B quarter hollow 6/8 shoulderless razor. A real beauty, but it kind of sucked to shave with. This was my first try with an SR in quite a while, so it was probably technique. I do want to learn how to hone, so I figured I'd go at it and see how comfy I could get this blade. I just bought a house last month, so I can't really afford to go hone-crazy, so I went the lapping film route.

The W&B:



I tried putting a new edge on the W&B, and it was definitely better than when I first got it, but still pulling and irritating. I tried setting the bevel and polishing the edge a few different times with varying results. I did a bunch of shaves, honing in-between each one, with varying results. I know now that the edge quality is the culprit - my technique is at least good enough that I can get a passable, cut-free shave, even with a slightly tugging and pulling edge. I am prepping correctly (DE shaves with the same prep are super comfy), and I am using the correct blade angles and zero pressure. The edge is where my problem is; it's 90% there, and my gut is telling me that I'm either doing too much of one step, or not enough, and that one little change will get the edge comfortably sharp.

It really is a beautiful object, and I have a deep appreciation for elegant, well-maintained, well-used tools. I also think the knowledge and skill gained from maintaining a tool adds to your enjoyment and skill in using it, and I really would like to put an enjoyable edge on the thing.

It has a pretty pronounced (and intentional) smile to the blade, and does not sit flat on the honing surface, so I have to use an x-stroke while honing. The part where the spine transitions into the tang overhangs the blade a bit, which makes the honing angle much more obtuse at the heel. This can be mitigated a bit by starting the honing stroke at an angle, by contacting the heel of the blade and the middle area of the spine. This is cumbersome, and I haven't really seen this type of stroke used in the honing videos I've seen. I have also tried setting the bevel while ignoring this change in angle, but the edge wants to catch on the film, and the heel never really turns out as good as the rest of the blade.

The Dovo:
I took it apart, cleaned off the rust, sanded out the pitting, polished the blade and replaced the scales. Now it's all pretty and ready to be honed, and I suspect it will be way easier than the W&B. I think it's carbon steel, as opposed to the stainless steel of the W&B (at least that's what I think they're made out of).

So, here's what I have to work with:
3m films - 12, 9, 3, 1, and .3 microns
nice flat chunks of marble
a green / red pasted balsa strop from whipped dog (thank you so much for the hookup, Larry! what an awesome guy!)
A whipped dog poor man's strop, conditioned with neatsfoot oil
an old leather / linen strop that I got during my first SR stint about 7 years ago (the leather might be dried out? Also it's got a good slice in it. The canvas side is good though.

So - what do you gents suggest? Here come the questions:
What grit should I use to set the bevel?
Any special stroke / technique for getting around the geometry of the spine -> tang transition?
About how many laps at each grit?
How do I know when I've done enough at one grit, and am ready to move down?
What grit is low enough on the films?
How many laps on the green balsa? should I even bother with the red side?
How many laps on the leather and/ or canvas?

I've read a ton of honing articles and threads, and have tried most of the stuff in each one. The problem is, there are so many variables that it would take me forever to find what works. Experimentation is not working for me, because I have no 'control,' so to speak. Using my equipment and trial and error it could take a looong time to find even a decent, reliable baseline.

I would greatly appreciate it if you generous folks would give me a progression that I could use as a starting point - something like 'set the bevel with the 12u, using this specific stroke, and stop when it passes x test. do x laps on 9u, x on 3u, and x on 1u, a dozen laps on the green strop and then 100 on the leather.' I know no-one will be able to give me the secret formula for my specific tools/razor/hands, but it will at least get me in the ballpark. Right now I am in the weeds!

Thank you all so much in advance,
-Andrew

I don't usually care much for a smiling razor, but that one made me smile, like it!
"but the edge wants to catch on the film" Are you going edge first om lapping film?

Unfortunately with what you have you will most likely never get a shave ready edge cause you don't have a good bevel setter. I use paste to do my honeing and I start on 40 microns to set a bevel. Here is the thread I wrote on using paste. The last post discusses setting a bevel with paste.

Edit: sorry just realized I didn't add the link. http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...ugh-guide.html

Wow, fast replies.

Some more info -
I am going edge-first on the films.
I do have high quality PSA-backed wet/dry sandpaper that I have used for plane blades, in 800, 1200, 1500 and 2k grits. Maybe I could use these to set a bevel? Or would a cheapo 1k stone be better for my purposes?

Don't go edge first!
The film might lift ever so slightly from the marble and mess your edge up, I've got the same film (I think), 3M Imperial lapping film AlO.
I use it with edge trailing and it's wonderful!

Keep in mind that all honing systems have strong points and weak points,, Lapping flim works really really well with nice straight edge hollow grinds it starts to have issues with problem razors
When you start having to do Honing gymnastics you will find the weakness in using lapping films.. You can try reversing and using a stropping stroke but that tends to put flat spots in the bevel on smiling blades..

What you are trying to do can be accomplished but you have a very steep trail in front of you...


This is why you see so many people recommending the Norton 4/8 as a beginners hone it is an easy path on the most types of razors...

Right now from where you are sitting I would also say get a 1k bevel setter, at least it will create a even bevel for you... I would suspect that your edge is uneven ie: sharp dull sharp dull down the very edge this is why you feel it is almost there, but are still getting some tugging...

Glen is right. I'm a newbie and found I can sharpen most full hollow to extra hollow straights on lapping film, but when it comes to old heavy wedges or even near wedges or smiling razors due to past bad honing, I can't set the bevel. With the extra hollows and full hollows, I used 12,9,5,3,1,.3 microns lapping film. The rest I send out, until I get a Norton 4/8.

Just a suggestion, but maybe you should send that razor out to be honed professionally, then you have a bench mark. Pick up a cheap blade off Ebay to practice honing on.

Get yourself a King 1k. It's a good bevel setter, and not expensive at all. In all honesty, I'd get a Norton 4/8 too. If you want, you can get a Norton 1k, in lieu of the King. Either will get you there. I know you said you can't right now, so when you can.
They're more versatile, and user friendly.

There really is no secret formula, the blade itself will dictate what it needs. I'm sorry I can't be more specific, but it's hard to say without seeing the bevel, or feeling it.

Like Glen said get a 1k bevel setter and a Norton 4k/8k. But first I would watch some of Glen's honing videos. Here is the link;
http://straightrazorpalace.com/video...-gssixgun.html

What I did was watch one video (bevel setting for example) a couple of times start to finish. Then I would start from the beginning of a video and watch a part of it. I'd go to the hone and work on that part. Next, I'd watch another part of the video then back to the hone, etc., etc. After getting bevel set use same procedure for the Norton 4/8, it worked for me.

As I have stated many times in the past I learned more in 3 weeks watching his videos than I did the previous 3 years.

As zib stated, get it honed by a professional so you have something to use for a benchmark.

1k=sets the edge
4k=sharpens the edge
8k=polishes the edge
12k or higher=final finisher