Thread: Naniwa Flattening Stone

Originally Posted by onimaru55

If there are no high spots,which will be evidenced by a patch of localized scratches on your first lapping attempt, eg below,they are good to go without breaking in. They will simply be more aggressive at first. I've only had one out of 6 or so that had a high spot & they are very consistently flat too.

Ok, I'm just about to buy the 400 and the 1200. Could you tell me what is required for breaking in should I be unlucky with one as like your photo? Thanks

I rubbed a Spyderco UF ceramic stone on mine for a few laps but if you locate the high spot you could most likely knock off the diamonds selectively with a hard object. Never tried it but maybe a pin punch & a light tap or 2 with a small hammer.
Diamonds don't wear easily but they will shatter. Rubbing over a ceramic plate or a hard tool steel my work too.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Sorry , don't have a link. I bought mine locally but google the word you will get lots of hits.

They are one size 3" x 8.25". I use the 400 grit up to 5k & the 1200 grit for 5k upward.

Anyway thanks. I've just bought the 400 and 1200 grit Atoma plates. I will quickly now sell my Naniwa flattening stone. Thanks for the advice, I'm glad I've taken the plunge and gone for these Atoma plates. They sound like they are ideal for lapping.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I rubbed a Spyderco UF ceramic stone on mine for a few laps but if you locate the high spot you could most likely knock off the diamonds selectively with a hard object. Never tried it but maybe a pin punch & a light tap or 2 with a small hammer.
Diamonds don't wear easily but they will shatter. Rubbing over a ceramic plate or a hard tool steel my work too.

Let's hope mine are ok.

The odds are good.

Hello,

Naniwa Flattening Stone (NFS) is very usefull for quick and rough flattening of large slates (and soft stones). Diamond plates are too small for stones bigger than 300mm and sand paper is slow. But you have to use finer sand paper after NFS. It's leave coarse surface of stone.

Diamond plates are faster than NFS. I think for Naniwa SS it is not bad choice, but Atoma 400 is better. Soak NFS before use it. Better is half submerged in water during flattening of another stone. NFS is very hard and wear out slowly if you will use soft stones (Chosera is hard stone).

I think Atoma 1200 is to expensive and less usefull. For stones finer than 6k use another 6k stone for improve smoothness of stone surface. It's possible to use syntetic nagura. But naguras are small. So result may be little uneven stone. I use King 6k (185 x 62 x 19 mm) often.

Originally Posted by atercz

Hello,

Naniwa Flattening Stone (NFS) is very usefull for quick and rough flattening of large slates (and soft stones). Diamond plates are too small for stones bigger than 300mm and sand paper is slow. But you have to use finer sand paper after NFS. It's leave coarse surface of stone.

Diamond plates are faster than NFS. I think for Naniwa SS it is not bad choice, but Atoma 400 is better. Soak NFS before use it. Better is half submerged in water during flattening of another stone. NFS is very hard and wear out slowly if you will use soft stones (Chosera is hard stone).

I think Atoma 1200 is to expensive and less usefull. For stones finer than 6k use another 6k stone for improve smoothness of stone surface. It's possible to use syntetic nagura. But naguras are small. So result may be little uneven stone. I use King 6k (185 x 62 x 19 mm) often.

Thanks. Bt since posting this thread I have ordered the Atoma 400 and 1200 from Germany. One of the stones is out of stock and so there is a delay for me getting them. They should both be ready for me in about a week. I will most likely sell my Naniwa flattening stone. Thanks for the info though.

Originally Posted by eleblu05

No you made the right move with the naniwa 3/8k they are much easier to learn on. natural stones vary in there honing ability.

I got my razor a while ago now, due to an accident with rust I had to rehone it. I wasn't able to get a real good cutting edge with the 3/8 stone I felt. I had in the meanwhle found a pretty cheap and small (100x40mm) coticule that I decided to go for, with that I was able, after looking up some youtube tutorials to hone my razor again to being sharp enough to pass the dropping hair test.

So I guess I got a 3/8 naniwa stone for sale.

So.......what did you do on the 3/8 stone? Any bevel setting prior to it's use? Number of strokes? Type of razor? Condition? What did yo do on the Coticule? Number of strokes? Number of tries? Dropping hair test eh.........

By the way, I like using the Coticules on occasion too. They are nice stones and can provide very respectable results.

Thank you for calling.....................

Originally Posted by HDS

I got my razor a while ago now, due to an accident with rust I had to rehone it. I wasn't able to get a real good cutting edge with the 3/8 stone I felt. I had in the meanwhle found a pretty cheap and small (100x40mm) coticule that I decided to go for, with that I was able, after looking up some youtube tutorials to hone my razor again to being sharp enough to pass the dropping hair test.

So I guess I got a 3/8 naniwa stone for sale.

Okay maybe I said something I shouldn't. I am sorry I don't know whats a touchy subject or not. I just got better results with the one stone and I just watched a buncha videos on youtube and developed an idea of what todo from there. Maybe I misused it or something I dunno, I just like the smaller stone better, takes up less space, I am only gonna have this one razor anyway so I don't need a lot of maintenance equipment.