Thread: Naniwa Flattening Stone

I'm new to straight razor shaving, about 3 months now. I've just bought my first set of hones. They are Chosera 1k, SS 3k, 5k, 8k and 12k. I also purchased the NANIWA Flattening Stone Grain size 220. It's a huge thing, measuring 12x6x¾". It looks really course and although the instructions are in Japanese, it says to sprinkle the silcon carbide powder on it to speed up the process. I have also purchased this grey powder.

Before I start lapping my 'brand new' stones, I was hoping that someone may have some experience with this setup. Should the stone just be lightly wet as like honing? How much lapping is generally required, before every use or less? I'm assuming firgure of 8 motion but would love to hear if anyone else uses it. There is nothing on you-tube regarding this trueing stone. Do brnad new stones even require lapping and this stone looks like its so course I will take a lot off.

As of now, I've not honed any razor yet. I'm not wanting go straight into bevel setting etc, just taking things easy, step by step. I've got a shave ready razor that is just starting to go dull, so will try a few laps of the 8 then 12K stones and see how I get on. Here are some pics of the stone from the web.

Looks like a norton lapping stone, the norton lapping stone requires lapping itself to keep it flat, so you will eventually have to lap that thing as well. A person is better off just using a DMT 325 bench plate for lapping. They are flat and stay flat and don't require lapping.

Lapping is done with water. Scribble a bunch of pencil lines up and down your stones, then start rubbing them on the lapping stone. Keep at it till the pencil lines are gone. Then repeat. It shouldn't take too long to lap the stones.

1. I'd soak the stones for a few minutes before lapping them

2. For the initial lapping you need to lap until flat. Make a pencil grid on the stone, and lap very evenly until it's gone. You can repeat if desired. Then chamfer the edges (so they aren't sharp)

3. For cleaning and refreshing the stone you just need a few swipes until the surface looks fresh and clean.

4. Use a figure 8 motion, and rotate the stone once in a while.

That flattening stone is just a course, hard, waterstone. It's surface will wear down a bit with use. Occasionally it will benefit from a bit of lapping on some sandpaper.

Make sure it's flat before you start using it. If it's not flat then you will have to lap it on course sandpaper. Once the lapping stone is flat, it's unlikely to go out of flat again, since it get's rubbed on flat waterstones each time it's used.

Michael

Thanks for the advice. I'm a little confused though as I've read in a few places, inlcuding the place where I bought them from, that these Naniwa stones should not be left soaking as it causes them to crack. re you saying its ok to soak them just for the lapping?

Originally Posted by mjsorkin

1. I'd soak the stones for a few minutes before lapping them

2. For the initial lapping you need to lap until flat. Make a pencil grid on the stone, and lap very evenly until it's gone. You can repeat if desired. Then chamfer the edges (so they aren't sharp)

3. For cleaning and refreshing the stone you just need a few swipes until the surface looks fresh and clean.

4. Use a figure 8 motion, and rotate the stone once in a while.

That flattening stone is just a course, hard, waterstone. It's surface will wear down a bit with use. Occasionally it will benefit from a bit of lapping on some sandpaper.

Make sure it's flat before you start using it. If it's not flat then you will have to lap it on course sandpaper. Once the lapping stone is flat, it's unlikely to go out of flat again, since it get's rubbed on flat waterstones each time it's used.

Michael

Originally Posted by postmastergeneral

Thanks for the advice. I'm a little confused though as I've read in a few places, inlcuding the place where I bought them from, that these Naniwa stones should not be left soaking as it causes them to crack. re you saying its ok to soak them just for the lapping?

Follow the manufacturer's instructions. The newer synthetics should not be soaked for a long time. They will get wet enough as you lap them. 5 mins. or so will do no harm tho. The lapping stone however is a different material & will not be harmed by a soak. Again it is unnecessary. It should be checked for flatness however.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Follow the manufacturer's instructions. The newer synthetics should not be soaked for a long time. They will get wet enough as you lap them. 5 mins. or so will do no harm tho. The lapping stone however is a different material & will not be harmed by a soak. Again it is unnecessary. It should be checked for flatness however.

Thanks. Reading on here it would appear there is very little use of this particular stone. I'm now considering selling it on eBay and going with the more popular DMT stone. Just to make sure I've got the right one, is it this one? D8C D8C Diamond Sharp Whetstone 8 X 3In Coarse 0017042007683 Dmtd8C
It's 8x3x3/8"
Cheers

Yes, that is it. Quite a popular diamond plate.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Yes, that is it. Quite a popular diamond plate.

Thanks. So you reckon this is the best one to get? Does the plate ever require lapping or will it always stay true?

Well, best is a relative term but yes it will stay true. Heavy steel plate covered in diamonds can't lose shape really.
Personally I like the Atoma plates as they don't stick to the stone being lapped but they are a bit more exe.

I don't let my 12k stone soak for a long time. Just a couple of minutes under running water before lapping. Im sure it's fine either way.

Dmt d8c certainly is the most popular option. It also makes a wicked knife stone.

Michael