Thread: New Thuringen stone

Gents, I just purchased a new Thuringen stone ( with a slurry stone) . Some questions from a new guy.
1. The stone shows some visable lines from bein cut and shaped. Do I need to do something to remove them, it does feel smooth. Or, will using slury and use remove these lines.

2. I guess I should have asked first, but I had seen video and a few posts on a one stone hone. My interpertation was I could use this and get by with the one stone for my purpose, pick up others as needs change.

Any help would be appreciated.

did you get the stone from Timber Tools?
As far as one stone hone, you need to set bevel on 1k, then you can do the rest on one stone.
If you are new to honing I would not advise doing any of that, I'd suggest get a blade or two pro honed then get a cheaper but in good shape blade to learn honing.
Grab a decent 1k stone and Norton 4/8k and learn on them.

I've seen stones on the bay with the LI, DT, and the other AJ stones marketed as "Thuringians" I don't know. I thought Mueller got the last of the Thury stock, if that was even real? Who knows...In any case...

You'll need to lap your stone. See this post from our Library: Hone Lapping 101 - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Just the top of the hone (the working end) needs to be lapped, not all four sides.

The stone needs to be perfectly flat in order to maintain a proper cutting edge on your blade. One stone honing does work, but takes some skill. The condition of the blade being honed must be taken into consideration. If you found a razor at a flea market or on Ebay for 10.00, Good luck.

If the blade is new, and already honed, and your just touching it up, Yes...You can create a slurry and go to work, but if it's the former, You will need a proper set of hones. Here's another post that can help:
What hone(s), paste(s), or spray(s) do I need? - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Good Luck to you.

Can we see a picture of your purchase?

What exactly is your purpose? I know it seems like a silly question, but it does affect the answers. Are you sharpening your razor from dull? Or are are you just trying to keep an already sharp razor in shaving condition?

Lastly, I wouldn't suggest going the natural stone route first. I know it's a bummer cause you already bought the stone. But I spent over 8 months trying to make naturals work before I finally just got the Norton stone, and found out there wasn't anything wrong with what I was doing, except the tool I was using to do it with. Synthetics will dramatically simplify the learning.

A thuringan is a finishing stone. Some stones are appropriate for one stone honing but IME a thuringan is not. I won't say that it cannot be done, just that it is not an efficient way to do it. Wasted time and unnecessary wear of the stone are what I see if someone attempts one stone honing with a thuringan. Do the bevel setting and sharpening with appropriate stones, and finishing on the thuringan would be the best way to go IMO.

Yep, got it from timber tools. As well I have Smith’s 3-Stone Sharpening System features a 6” Medium Arkansas Stone, 6” Fine Arkansas Stone, and 6” Coarse Synthetic Stone I was going to use for my kitchen knives but have not as yet used it.

I have tried to upload a photo, not sure units going to work. If not when I get my desktop back from the shop I will try again.

The pics worked. That stone needs some serious lapping/sandpaper time.


If you intend to use the stone's you've listed to sharpen razors from dull, get a comfortable chair. I'm sorry to tell you that it's not a very effective way to accomplish the task. While I don't doubt that some people (Randydance, Gssixgun, Lynn, etc.) would be able to do it, it's not a good place to start.

If your intent is only to maintain an already shave ready edge, I can't comment, because I've never owned a timbertools thuri. I suggest you do some research on the forum regarding the timbertools thuringian.

So, can anyone point me in the direction I need to go? I have some sandpaper that is around 600. Would that be a good place to start? How do I keep it flat?

Just found the answer to my question ...... Google ......

Gents, a big thanks to Josh Earl for his "hone lapping 101" an to regularjoe. Regularjoe you gave me the idea to look up the article, and Josh Earl for his writing.

I spent about 15 min with the 600 grit going through two sheets, and there is a marked difference in the opposite sides of the stone. I think I will pick up some 300 grit then progress to the 600. As of now almost all of the pencil marks are gone, and it really is feeling smooth and like this stone might have been worth the money. BUT as must be apparent I am new to try to hones, and have an amazing lack of knowledge of hones. But at least I know I don't know much......