Thread: tape and hones.

Thanks Glen. That makes sense and certainly makes it easier to be able to then do touch ups without having to tape!

Shane

I used to think that by using tape, I was not skilled enough as a honer(I don't consider myself a honemeister by a long stretch). When I saw Glen using tape, I knew it was ok for me to use it. I have a near wedge that I couldn't sharpen till I uses a double layer of tape. Now it shaves great.

Hi Ed,
I used one layer of tape to home that frameback, and I'd recommend you do the same. You may notice the frame is a little thin in parts; esp at the toe end. EVEN if the tape DOES clog hones (and I don't think it does; at least not that a couple of passes with a lapping stone or cleaning stone wouldn't sort) a hone can be replaced, that frameback can't.

Can I ask how far you are taking back the honing? I would highly suggest 20 laps on a Shapton 16k is really all it should need; I wouldn't think you'd need much more.

The Swedish steel is much harder than some; normally to refresh my edges i do 10 laps on the Shapton, but on my Swedish razors I do 20. I guess in a way this means more spine wear is possible.

Sure if you got all 'basic' you wouldn't use tape, but why wear the frame if you don't have to?

You'll also notice that razor has a very thin bevel, which seems common to framebacks. If you DON'T use tape, you'll need to re-set the bevel, otherwise you're just polishing the edges of my bevel, not making an edge.

Hope you don't mind me acting like a recently estranged mother...

What is hone wear? I think I know, but I am not 100% sure.

Is it wear on the razor or the wear on the hone?

For as much as some hones sell for, I can see why one might be concerned about wear to the hone.

Jody

I believe "hone wear" refers to the wear on the spine of the razor caused by honing without taping the spine. Even if you tape the spine the hone will need to flattened occasionally because it will wear regardless.

Bob

Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider

Hi Ed,
I used one layer of tape to home that frameback, and I'd recommend you do the same. You may notice the frame is a little thin in parts; esp at the toe end. EVEN if the tape DOES clog hones (and I don't think it does; at least not that a couple of passes with a lapping stone or cleaning stone wouldn't sort) a hone can be replaced, that frameback can't.

Can I ask how far you are taking back the honing? I would highly suggest 20 laps on a Shapton 16k is really all it should need; I wouldn't think you'd need much more.

The Swedish steel is much harder than some; normally to refresh my edges i do 10 laps on the Shapton, but on my Swedish razors I do 20. I guess in a way this means more spine wear is possible.

Sure if you got all 'basic' you wouldn't use tape, but why wear the frame if you don't have to?

You'll also notice that razor has a very thin bevel, which seems common to framebacks. If you DON'T use tape, you'll need to re-set the bevel, otherwise you're just polishing the edges of my bevel, not making an edge.

Hope you don't mind me acting like a recently estranged mother...

It's my baby now carl. no heavy honing, I am using a stone around 10k, and using maybe 10 strokes, don't worry Carl I'll treat her right. And after some research, I think I COULD make a new frame for it but it wouldn't necessarily look quite right. To be honest that was one of the things that had me in two minds about it, you know, once the frame gets too much wear it'll be knackered, but I am really enjoying using it now, I think 3 weeks exclusively it's moving up from 1.5 to 1 if you know what I mean Carl.

All the info you might want to search is right here on SRP... I have done quite a bit of research into Tape myself over the years because of the many "Facts" people post. I suggest you take the time and actually test the theories yourself..
You will actually find a link in the thread I linked where we measured many razors, to test the claims of bevel angle and what they were designed for...
People took the time to test the spine vs the blade on some of the older razor for hardness differences, you should take a look at those conclusions too

But the best is to take your razors and your hones and take out the calipers and rulers, take careful measurements and add to the data base with real life facts

http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...-theories.html

Originally Posted by edhewitt

It's my baby now carl. no heavy honing, I am using a stone around 10k, and using maybe 10 strokes, don't worry Carl I'll treat her right. And after some research, I think I COULD make a new frame for it but it wouldn't necessarily look quite right. To be honest that was one of the things that had me in two minds about it, you know, once the frame gets too much wear it'll be knackered, but I am really enjoying using it now, I think 3 weeks exclusively it's moving up from 1.5 to 1 if you know what I mean Carl.

No probs at all. I think the info you've received about hone wear (spine wear, the terms may be used interchangeably) is essentially correct.
Do what you will but I'd still recommend tape, I can never see a reason NOT to tape, and I'd use a higher grit hone if you can get one.

Well as a sparky I do have fairly new tape, but he is right, when tape gets old and hot the glue melts and sticks to the outside of the tape below it on the roll.
If new tape is not a problem then I will use it ON CARLS EX RAZOR just so be doesn't weep himself to sleep everynight

Aren't spine wear a good thing? To have the same angle even if the blade gets ground down. Like maintaning a primary bevel on knifes. I imagine if the temper are kinda even then the edge will be ground of more then the spine every time it's sharpened?
Can see the point in using the tape only with the fine stones, to get some edge to work on fast, but it's used mainly on the course stones?

Btw what kind of lupe are good in magnification terms?