Thread: Setting A Bevel

Originally Posted by Anthony1954

Thanks Bob,
The idea of the marker can I just check this out with you. If you mark all along the bevel both sides when the marker pen disappears this means the bevel is the same all along the length. Similar to marking the hone with a pencil before lapping?

To me it means that the bevel runs out to the edge on both sides but it may not mean the bevel edges have actually met, if you get what I mean. You may need further honing on the bevel setting hone to get the two to meet and form one continuous edge. It is just a way to make sure you have a uniform continuous edge so when they do meet the meeting will not be hit and miss. Checking by cutting arm hair seems to work best for me to confirm that the two edges of the bevel have met.

Bob

OP really great advise in this thread so far. I'm hesitant to even post with the talent before me. Rather than using the DMT I started using a 400 grit stone and always double tape for restoration and bevel setting on poor edges. I'm still really new at this but have found success pretty early. For me spending time on getting the bevel set right makes everything else fall in place.

I'd really recommend some hone mentoring and the educational videos here and on YouTube. It will triple your learning curve speed. Using a 30X loupe and felt markers have really helped me.

Next question. Brand new Dovo basic which this novice thought would be almost shave ready.
Could it take some time to get the bevel to meet right across the blade?
Also do you sometimes get one side that sets the bevel straight across before the other side and if so how would you hone this blade?

Hone it evenly on both sides. And it may set fast or take a long time.

I use a Naniwa 220 many times when this type of problem comes up. Typically, I will use a layer of tape although sometimes not. I find that you don't need that much pressure, but it can take a while. The Naniwa is not as aggressive as the DMT but cuts very well and sets a nice foundation for the Chosera 1k which knocks out the 220 scratch marks pretty well.

Glen's point on the scratch marks high on the bevel is well taken and you should make sure you don't use much pressure when using more aggressive stones to prevent this. I haven't gone to two layers of tape although the 1K will take care of the secondary bevel from using the one or two layers of tape pretty easily I believe. If you start to see wearing through the tape, replace it and put a new piece on.

Have fun.

Originally Posted by Anthony1954

Next question. Brand new Dovo basic which this novice thought would be almost shave ready.
Could it take some time to get the bevel to meet right across the blade?
Also do you sometimes get one side that sets the bevel straight across before the other side and if so how would you hone this blade?

A photo of both sides of the blade would be helpful to see what is going on. It is hard to visualize what you are saying.

Bob

Factory edge could be good or bad! Hard to tell crooked spines and short toes from pictures though. Ive seen a few dovo bests factory edges(not as many as Lynn has LOL) and most are ok but some are horrible.

Lets try this another way then. Is the bevel a uniform width on both sides? I am going to guess that on one side there is a spot that is wider than the the rest of the bevel on that side. On the opposite side bevel there is a spot corresponding to the wider part part that is missing the hone. I dunno, could be a warped/twisted spine/blade. Photos would show what the two bevels looked like though.

It should not take much to bring a factory edge to shave readiness but then again there are quality control lapses at any factory.

Bob

Bob

OK I've given up with this now. I've managed to hone up to shave readiness several vintage razors but probably more by luck than skill. I kept seeing the bevel partly setting then loosing it as I progressed.
Now I think that as the Dovo was brand new I should have started on a higher grit that the 1000. Also watching the honing videos again I think I may be using too much pressure particularly on the higher grit hones. I tried to take a picture both without and with a 10x loupe but you wouldn't have been able to discern anything from them.
Also I find it really hard to just use one hand when honing particularly on the back stroke up the hone, so this is what makes me think the pressure is too much and that's why the bevel never really forms right across on this new Dovo, but it's strange that really blunt vintage straights that I've done are now shaving. I've sent the Dovo off for some professional help fearing that I may have totally trashed it but we'll see.
I've sent for one of those USB microscopes because again from the threads it seems that you definitely need to know what's going on at the edge particularly when learning. I won't give up totally but I'll limit myself to the cheaper end of vintage straights until everything drops into place.
One last thing tried one of the vintage razors back on the 5000, 8000 and 12000 but hardly touching the stones, believe it's much better as it now really pops the few hairs I've got left on my arm!

I'm no expert. I never use pressure except in the initial bevel setting. I would describe it as razor weight and feather light strokes. Before I finish on the 1K the last series of strokes are feather weight. My description may be poor but my bevels turn out. As I progress through my hones it is not with pressure. The edge on a razor is a very brittle and delicate item.