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Thread: Setting A Bevel

  1. #21
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    Shaun,
    Thanks again I'm now convinced that it's my technique I'm almost positive that I've been using too much pressure particularly with using two hands where you'll probably apply pressure without realising it. Also I think I may have been wrong to compare bevels on a brand new razor with some of the vintage ones I've been trying. The reason being I think the bevel on an older razor would be bigger than on a brand new one due to wearing with age. So I may have set the bevel on the new Dovo without realising it and then carried on honing until it disappeared again!!
    I seem to be getting more feel from the stones as I do more the slight suction is noticeable now when before maybe I didn't realise it was there.
    Anyway onward and upward as they say!

  2. #22
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    Pressure imo wouldn't affect the sharpness though unless you are flexing the blade. Smoothness definitely though as that pressure will increase the abrasiveness of whatever hone you are using. Now don't get me wrong, heavy pressure is not good or necessary but I maintain a light pressure throughout with the exception of the bevel set process where I use moderate pressure. The amount of swarf will tell you how much steel you are removing. Clean the stone often as heavy swarf may lead to slurry dulling where there are so many particles on the top of the hone that the edge keeps banging into. And don't hone with puddles of water on top of the hone, wet but no standing water. And make sure the hones are flat. Heavy pressure may cause excessive dishing. If you continue to have trouble, I can either hone it for you or set the bevel and let you finish it for postage.
    edhewitt likes this.

  3. #23
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    There will always be a few razors that will give you a hard time honing them be they used or new. It is good to stop when you get a bit frustrated too. I doubt very much that you ruined that Dovo either. It would be interesting to hear from whomever you sent it to whether or not the blade/spine had a slight warp/twist to it. Hang in there it does get better.

    Bob
    Life is a terminal illness in the end

  4. #24
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    Bill
    Appreciate your help and advice also I'm in the UK and there don't seem to be many Brits on here as I think a one to one lesson from someone who knows how to hone would be my answer.
    You're point about the water and rinsing is a great one and I'll make sure I do that in future. I also think as mentioned before that I should have started on a higher grit particularly as the razor was new out of the box but not shave ready.
    Although your further advice would be appreciated as I'm only guessing would you yourself always start on at least a 1000grit for a new razor to prepare the bevel?
    I also think once I can see what's happening close up this should help me further

  5. #25
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    Well the blade dictates what it needs. The hardest part of it is determining how far off from shave ready you are. Generally I would start any blade that comes to me on a 3k chosera. Then the results of the scratch patterns will tell me where to go, which could be up or down. I have a chosera 600 that I do use rather frequently when the need arises. If somehow you can spend some time with someone that can hone, that will really get you on a good path. I would say use the magic marker test to see where you are. Keep your stroke consistent throughout the honing process as your stroke will grind into the blade how you hone. For example a blade honed on its side heel leading would not be easy to touch up doing straight laps as the wear on the blade is different. You may consider using 2 hands(not for pressure, but to make sure the blade is flat to the hone). If you are removing metal at different places, you will take a long time and lose a lot of steel.

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