Thread: 4k/8k pyramid method on norton combo still not there pics included please help!

Originally Posted by OCDshaver

I would agree. Looking at the 3rd and 4th picture, there seems to be a lot of light being reflected from the cutting edge. That usually means that there is enough metal there to reflect significant light and therefore no bevel.

the light on the edge is in the third and fourth pictures is because i use a usb microscope with 8 led inbuilt lights which are only 2cm away from the blade.

i spent 2 hours on the bevel with my 1k it has to be set. it only takes lynn 3-4 minutes to set his on his 1k stone .

im not going to go back to the 1k im going to see it through and if it doesnt become shave ready i will admit defeat and go back to the 1k.

so laurens said to go back to the 4k i think i will spend 2 hours on the 4k and post update pictures in a few days hopefully i can fully set the bevel on the 4k
thanks for your input guys

If it makes you feel any better I have a PJM Cmon Blackie that is giving me the same fits. I was able to get a shavable edge by adding a second layer of tape on the spine. I am still not happy, and will take it back to the 4k when I get a chance.
Be sure your stones are lapped, take a break, and relax.

Originally Posted by stevenn21

i spent 2 hours on the bevel with my 1k it has to be set.

i think i will spend 2 hours on the 4k and post update pictures in a few days hopefully i can fully set the bevel on the 4k

You have probably set and destroyed the bevel multiple times, in that 2 hours, and will most likely do so in the next 2 hours..

The one shot that barely shows the wear going into the heel is the most important one of the series,, Perhaps an overall shot of the razor so we can see the Geometry would be more helpful.. Something is just not right here...



Read Number 1

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...bing-over.html


Step away from grinding away at the razor, you are doing something wrong, 2 hours and you are getting no bevel set means one of two things, either you are not getting to the edge, (improper technique or Geometry) or you are going past the bevel set and not realizing it...

Take some time and read and watch in this thread

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...on-2012-a.html

Reading your first thread explains where your issues are coming from, not even sure why you started a new thread leaving all that info out...

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...uded-post.html

This is not a "Bevel Set" you are attempting to "Restore an Edge"

These are to very different procedures and this is why you are tearing into the heel, there is a bit more to Edge Restoration than just grinding away at the steel,, You are going to have to actually re-contour that heel, and form a completely new foundation on which to create the bevel..

Or you can disregard everything everyone has told you so far in both threads and just keep grinding away steel

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Reading your first thread explains where your issues are coming from, not even sure why you started a new thread leaving all that info out...

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...uded-post.html

This is not a "Bevel Set" you are attempting to "Restore an Edge"

These are to very different procedures and this is why you are tearing into the heel, there is a bit more to Edge Restoration than just grinding away at the steel,, You are going to have to actually re-contour that heel, and form a completely new foundation on which to create the bevel..

Or you can disregard everything everyone has told you so far in both threads and just keep grinding away steel

how do i go about recountouring the heel please

Originally Posted by stevenn21

how do i go about recountouring the heel please

You are going to very carefully grind it away on your DMT 325,

There is a Vid on my channel about Edge Restoration that shows this.. I don't link it here on SRP because I gave up trying to explain the warning on there....

Warning - This is not for you beginners, this is not "Honing" this is an Extreme Restoration technique... Don't whine if you can't get yer razor sharp again I warned ya !!!!!!

You took a steep path to a sharp edge.

i will buy another razor next month that is new with no previous honing mistakes/flaws and try with that.
anyone know of a cheap new razor i can use to practice honing?

my idea is that if i get one new i dont need to worry about correcting any defects usually found on vintage ebay specials which is what this one was.(ironically in the listing the guy said it was just a strop away from being shave ready).

also are there any other techniques i can use to test if the bevel is set? i clearly can not understand the thump pat test properly

Buying a new razor to practise honing? Other than on a cheap Gold Dollar, I would not do this. Gold Dollars, however, come with their own geometry problems that will only make it harder to hone.

As gssixgun said, you probably had the bevel and shot past it a couple of times. Perhaps the following routine can help:
- Check 1, thumb pad test, thumb nail test, visual and arm hair test
- Dull the edge by very lightly running it over the corner of your Chosera 1K
- Check 2, thumb pad test, thumb nail test, visual and arm hair test
- 20-30 circles both sides with a little pressure
- Check 3, thumb pad test, thumb nail test, visual and arm hair test
- 20-30 circles both sides without pressure
- Check 4, thumb pad test, thumb nail test, visual and arm hair test
- 10-20 x strokes, no pressure
- Check 5, thumb pad test, thumb nail test, visual and arm hair test

This much shorter routine will reduce or eliminate the chance of setting a bevel and overshooting it. You should feel a significant difference between checks 1 and 2, as you're dulling it. It should fail all tests, but do take care to dull it gently!
Then, after the circles with a little pressure, you should have a tiny burr that you can feel with your thumb pad and nail. Visually, the bevel should look even and reach the edge, you could look up Magic Marker Test to aid you here.
The light circles should remove or reduce the burr, the edge should feel stickier on thumb pad and nail. Visually, scratches should look shallower.
After the x strokes, the scratches should look parallel and even along the bevel. Difference between checks 4 and 5 is probably minimal.

Note that the thumb pad test delivers different results between a wet and dry thumb. Wet, the sticky feeling is more pronounced than dry. At least, in my experience.