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Thread: Advice on Honing

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    Default Advice on Honing

    I have a Naniwa 1000, a Norton 4000/8000, and a Naniwa 12,000. I set the bevel then moved to the Norton. I messed up several times before I could even get to the 12,000 so I didn't use it. I used the circle method several times and maybe one time the bevel felt right. I began doing the circle method on the 4000 side and noticed that I didn't lap the Norton stone enough on both sides. The Norton was a new stone. I reset the bevel again and then used the Norton. The bevel was still off. It wasn't the same grade of sharpness all the way up and down the bevel. I know one of my problems was lifting the heel while honing. The toe end of the blade was sharper.

    So my method for honing was what Lynn Abrams did in a honing video. 40 circles on each side on the 1000, then like 20-25 laps if you didn't need to do more circles. Then do 20 circles with pressure on the 4000 (he used a naniwa 3000) then 20 circles without pressure. then do some laps on the 4000 then do some laps on the 8000. Im gonna rewatch the video. My question is: does anyone have any advice to give me from when they were first learning to hone? Anything that people do to generally mess things up or things to pay attention to while honing? Also, how do people normally clean their DMT 325? I use it as a lapping plate and it looks like its getting dirty from lapping or there are stone particles getting caught in the diamond plate.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    As for the lapping plate, they are intended to be used under water or with water running onto them while lapping. the water should clean the DMT up as you use it with very little left over. There is a cleaning kit available for old plates. I've never used one just heard they exist. I'm not following your honing question so I'm going to leave that to someone else.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Substance's Avatar
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    I used a similar slight variation of Lyns circles & xstrokes system on the same naniwa 1k then norton 4/8k then the final on the naniwa 12k
    Just need to makes sure the bevel is set first before proceeding then you need the watch your pressure once the bevel is set too, hard and you loose the edge & have to start again
    Took me a few times to work this out right
    That or you could have a blade with a distorted spine thats out, i have a pig of a blade that is nothing but head aches to get set & kept there until the leather
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    Scheerlijk Laurens's Avatar
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    If you have trouble keeping the blade flat on the hone, try honing with two hands. If you're a righty like me, press the toe down very gently with your left hand (thumb/index finger). See if that works

    Edit: forgot to say, this does not work for circles, only straight or X-strokes.
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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    First bit of advice is to try and find a honing mentor, someone who has been honing for a while. The biggest mistake I have seen is that folks use too much pressure. Razors aren't pocket knives. Yes, I use a little pressure at the first few strokes on a stone, but quickly lighten up as the last 2/3rds of the "laps" need to be no pressure. Even when using "pressure", it isn't enough to flex the blade. If you are flexing the blade, that's too much. Circles are for removing steel remember that. As far as the DMT, rinse it off and rub your fingers over it under water...that's all it ever needs.
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    Senior Member mjsorkin's Avatar
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    1. Lynn also has vids using the norton. Same principles

    2. Sounds like uneven honing. You can already tell that you are lifting the heel. Uneven pressure and lifting the spine is also common.

    What kind of razor is it.

    3. Clean the dmt with a scrubber and some dish soap.

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    Got a picture of the razor you are honing?? Maybe one of each side of the razor?

    Thanks.

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    zib
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    It takes a lot of practice. Honing can vary from Razor to Razor. Setting a good bevel is key. More pressure in needed when setting a bevel than any other time. Repair work, like fixing an uneven bevel may require even more pressure, depending on the steel. Things like chips can be even more challenging. I normally angle the blade to remove mine, or lift the spine off the hone. Once you have a proper, even bevel, you can then move onto to the next stone. That's the hardest thing to learn when your new. When to move on. Experienced honer's can feel it. You can use a jewelers loupe or magnifier to look at the bevel and check your progress. Watch your scratch patterns. A magic marker painted on the bevel will let you know if your applying even pressure. Muscle memory takes a while to develop.

    You can use two hands while honing, as long as your not applying uneven pressure. Some guys will guide the toe of blade while they hone. Watch how the water breaks over the bevel as you hone. Make sure it's even.

    As far as cleaning a DMT, I normally just rinse mine under running water. They do sell a cleaning kit, but you can use a wire brush and almost any type cleanser. I don't think it will hurt it.

    This is all I can think of at the moment.

    Good luck to you....
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    Senior Member Boarder277's Avatar
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    i was having problems setting the bevel on my Norton 4K....i couldn't get the bevel straight along the full length of the blade...it would be sharp at one end and not so much elsewhere...

    then i started holding the stone in my left hand while doing circles and X-strokes with my right and honestly it helped quite a lot...it gives me more tactile response while the blade travels over the surface of the stone...also because your hand is able to move up or down freely, the stone sort of rises it lowers to meet the blade traveling along it....it may not be a technique that sounds easy...but for myself at least i find that little bit of forgiveness i get from a honing surface that moves with me makes all the difference...

    I've really had no issues since i made this change
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    Senior Member MattCB's Avatar
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    Some really simple tips that I have heard and use.

    1) Keep your elbow up, makes it easier to maintain even strokes on the stone.
    2) Get a Sharpie to ensure you have set the bevel.
    3) Get a cheap loupe to ensure you have set the bevel. Use it to look at the edge after stone. You can see a large difference in the scratch pattern / amount of polish.
    4) Don't learn honing on a worn out razor......its REALLY frustrating! Get a no-name razor off of ebay with a decent blade and crap scales.
    5) Don't be afraid to use two hands
    6) Don't be afraid to mess up a razor or two
    7) If you are afraid of adding to much h9one wear, use tape (get the good stuff)
    8) Perform multiple "sharpness tests" after each stone. After awhile you will come to recognize when it feels/looks/cuts correctly.
    9) Don't hone with a loose pivot pin. Tighten it up and it feels much better to handle.

    Let us know how it goes. Good luck, it's worth the work!
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