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Thread: Which tape?

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WW243 View Post
    Why do you switch to one layer when the bevel is nearly finished?
    One layer of tape slightly increases the angle of the bevel. Two layers increase it more. Two layers offer more protection during bevel setting but going back to only one layer brings the angle closer to the original angle.

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    Senior Member UKRob's Avatar
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    If you don't mind me saying there's some mis-information on here about always using the same type of tape - that is evidenced by the post above where tape is used for bevel set and then removed. If the thickness of the tape made that much difference then removing it completely must make a massive difference - right?

    Not according to Glen. Removing tape makes about 1% difference to the bevel angle and this is quickly taken up on somethging like a 4k hone - so the theory is to use tape for bevel set - so as to protect the spine from undue wear, then remove the tape for further polishing.

    I always use tape with wedges - there is a calculation tool on Coticule.be that tells you the optimum number of layers depending on spine thickness and blade width. This is nothing to do with protecting the spine - it just corrects the geometry so that you get the correct bevel angle. By the way it also allows you to adjust for the thickness of tape you are using - and the easiest way to establish that is to measure the spine without tape and then with tape - but dont forget to divide the difference by two.
    Last edited by UKRob; 02-27-2014 at 02:50 PM.
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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UKRob View Post
    If you don't mind me saying there's some mis-information on here about always using the same type of tape - that is evidenced by the post above where tape is used for bevel set and then removed. If the thickness of the tape made that much difference then removing it completely must make a massive difference - right?
    Wrong.
    There is no logic to that statement. The "difference" remains the same. It does not become massive upon removal.
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    Senior Member UKRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    Wrong.
    There is no logic to that statement. The "difference" remains the same. It does not become massive upon removal.
    So if tape A is .1mm thick and tape B is .07mm thick and people are worried about the difference between the two types then removing the tape altogether makes it three times as bad - that is a massive difference. I stand by my statement.

  7. #15
    Chasing the Edge WadePatton's Avatar
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    I'm a taper. I prefer the feel of taped blade on the stones. Tapeless feels nekkid.

    If you're going to use it, keep it fresh and develop a good and safe method of removal and application. It's like adding a chore to a task at first, but it gets easier.
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    Chasing the Edge WadePatton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UKRob View Post
    So if tape A is .1mm thick and tape B is .07mm thick and people are worried about the difference between the two types then removing the tape altogether makes it three times as bad - that is a massive difference. I stand by my statement.
    but why would anyone mix tape thicknesses or mix taped with untaped honing? I wouldn't do it that way and wouldn't recommend it. Use tape or don't and use the same tape. easy.
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  9. #17
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UKRob View Post
    Not according to Glen. Removing tape makes about 1% difference to the bevel angle and this is quickly taken up on somethging like a 4k hone - so the theory is to use tape for bevel set - so as to protect the spine from undue wear, then remove the tape for further polishing.

    And I just re-affirmed that to myself last night on the hones Had a razor in with a request for a "no tape honing", and it really is that quick, 1 layer of #700 3M Scotch tape, quick bevel set on the Chosera 1k, remove tape, did 10 light laps on the 1k then moved to the 5k and on up...

    When you are simply using tape to protect the spine it really makes little difference


    I do agree that it becomes a different issue all together when using it on a spine worn oldie to adjust bad geometry, then you are using it to compensate for missing steel, whole different usage...


    Simple, if you are going to use tape, use the good stuff, apply it carefully and evenly, and change it often...


    Oh yeah here is my quick calculation for corrective use of tape

    0-1mm of spine wear = 1 layer
    1-2mm of spine wear 2 layers
    over 2 mm of spine wear 3 layers

    Personally I don't like more than using 3 layers, I start thinking that the razor might need a different direction
    Last edited by gssixgun; 02-27-2014 at 03:36 PM.
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  10. #18
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    The focus of the tape discussion seems to have been qualitative. I brought up the doubling up of the tape in order to help with dealing with the wearing of the tape during the heavy cutting of a bevel setter. Initial thickness is irrelevant because it is wearing away with every stroke with the limit reached when the spine is exposed through the tape.

  11. #19
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Interesting thought:

    Some believe that the strongest bevel possible and the smoothest shaving bevel is a Convex bevel...

    People have gone so far as to create micro bevels to help facilitate that, however what Ron just described "Letting the tape wear down as you hone", would accomplish a near perfect Convex bevel..



    Yes I have tried it, you should too
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  12. #20
    Senior Member Wayne1963's Avatar
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    Like everyone else, I've watched Lynn and Glens videos. I've adopted bits and pieces of both their methods. Initially I used tape, because I didn't trust myself not to over scour the spine. Now, tape is just part of my regimen. It also helps me when honing my W&B near wedge.

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