Thread: Which tape?

Hi all,
i have been honing my razors for about 4 years now. I use a Coticule mostly, and have had great results. If I need to restore a bevel I use a 1200k Bear and then finish on the Coti.
Now, that is my hollow ground razor process. I have just started to get brave and try to restore some old near wedge razors. The question is, what tape should I be using? As I used 2 layers of insulation tape last night, and although I got a good result, the tape had worn in places on the spine. This has given me an uneven bevel. Am I using the wrong kind of tape?
When applying the tape I made sure it was totally symmetrical both sides. I started with my 1200 Bear and finished on my Coticule. Probably inadequate process for a wedge.

Originally Posted by reload

Hi all,
i have been honing my razors for about 4 years now. I use a Coticule mostly, and have had great results. If I need to restore a bevel I use a 1200k Bear and then finish on the Coti.
Now, that is my hollow ground razor process. I have just started to get brave and try to restore some old near wedge razors. The question is, what tape should I be using? As I used 2 layers of insulation tape last night, and although I got a good result, the tape had worn in places on the spine. This has given me an uneven bevel. Am I using the wrong kind of tape?
Whwn applying the tape I made sure it was totally symmetrical both sides. I started with my 1200k Bear and finished on my Coticule. Probably inadequate process for a wedge.

Hi there,
Any insulation tape will do as long as you use the same type each time you re hone the razor for touch ups etc. You need to keep a close eye on the tape as any type you use will wear. On the lower grit hones as soon as you see even a small amount of wear change the tape. After that I've been advised to change it as I change up to each stone
Hope this helps

Ive actually been researching the same... I have found online that 3M and other brands make tape that is extremely abrasion resistant, Im now just trying to find which ones are the thinnest so I can stay close to factory angles as possible. So far I have found some that are .1mm thick, which shouldn't change the geometry too much? (saying this as a novice). Would love to hear if others have used these types of tape before, or whether a cheaper and thinner tape is best and just replace the tape more often.

I use "floor tape" for marking gymnasium floors. It's not noticeably thicker than electric tape, yet I've never had it wear through on the hone or even show significant abrasion.

You don't need tape. Just hone without it.
They don't use it in the factory where most are made.

Dries

Originally Posted by Dries

You don't need tape. Just hone without it.
They don't use it in the factory where most are made.

Dries

Very true - you don't *need* it, but especially when it comes to heavy wedges or near-wedges, there are advantages to using it. This is one of the many straight-razor-related questions in which there is no one clear answer. For example if you look at arguably the two (or at least two of the) most recognized razor honers out there, Lynn and Glenn (gssixgun), Glenn typically uses tape, Lynne typically doesn't.

If you do choose to use tape, it's worth getting better quality as it will last longer and you'll have to swap it out less frequently. 3M 700 is the one I use and it lasts *much* longer than the cheap stuff I had been using before.

If the tape is wearing unevenly, that may be a sign that the spine is wonky. One approach to address that is to put on one layer, hone until it wears through to the steel, and then place another layer on top of the first. That can help even out high and low points on the spine.

I've used both the 3M and "Duck" brands - which are exactly the same thickness - 0.070mm on my calipers.

I prefer the Duck brand because it never leaves adhesive residue on the blade.

-john

You don't need tape, but when doing a lot of steel removal during the initial stages of a bevel set on a heavier grind of razor, you are better off with 2 layers of tape. As the top layer wears away you can either change it (if you have more to do) or let it keep wearing away to transition to the angle of a single layer. When the bevel is nearly finished you can switch to only one layer.

I agree that you don't need tape, but like others have said if you use it make sure you use the same tape each time since the thickness varies. I, personally don't use tape on any razor in my rotation, but I will use it if I need to remove alot of metal. I use 3m brand then. I will transition to no tape once I get the chip or whatever out. I know alot of people are worried about hone wear, but once a razor is shave ready a touch up won't really add any noticeable wear probably for a lifetime. This is one of those things that will go back and forth and never really have an answer. It is personal opinion and either way is right.

Why do you switch to one layer when the bevel is nearly finished?

Originally Posted by Utopian

You don't need tape, but when doing a lot of steel removal during the initial stages of a bevel set on a heavier grind of razor, you are better off with 2 layers of tape. As the top layer wears away you can either change it (if you have more to do) or let it keep wearing away to transition to the angle of a single layer. When the bevel is nearly finished you can switch to only one layer.