Thread: Which tape?

I use "floor tape" for marking gymnasium floors. It's not noticeably thicker than electric tape, yet I've never had it wear through on the hone or even show significant abrasion.

You don't need tape. Just hone without it.
They don't use it in the factory where most are made.

Dries

Originally Posted by Dries

You don't need tape. Just hone without it.
They don't use it in the factory where most are made.

Dries

Very true - you don't *need* it, but especially when it comes to heavy wedges or near-wedges, there are advantages to using it. This is one of the many straight-razor-related questions in which there is no one clear answer. For example if you look at arguably the two (or at least two of the) most recognized razor honers out there, Lynn and Glenn (gssixgun), Glenn typically uses tape, Lynne typically doesn't.

If you do choose to use tape, it's worth getting better quality as it will last longer and you'll have to swap it out less frequently. 3M 700 is the one I use and it lasts *much* longer than the cheap stuff I had been using before.

If the tape is wearing unevenly, that may be a sign that the spine is wonky. One approach to address that is to put on one layer, hone until it wears through to the steel, and then place another layer on top of the first. That can help even out high and low points on the spine.

I've used both the 3M and "Duck" brands - which are exactly the same thickness - 0.070mm on my calipers.

I prefer the Duck brand because it never leaves adhesive residue on the blade.

-john

You don't need tape, but when doing a lot of steel removal during the initial stages of a bevel set on a heavier grind of razor, you are better off with 2 layers of tape. As the top layer wears away you can either change it (if you have more to do) or let it keep wearing away to transition to the angle of a single layer. When the bevel is nearly finished you can switch to only one layer.

I agree that you don't need tape, but like others have said if you use it make sure you use the same tape each time since the thickness varies. I, personally don't use tape on any razor in my rotation, but I will use it if I need to remove alot of metal. I use 3m brand then. I will transition to no tape once I get the chip or whatever out. I know alot of people are worried about hone wear, but once a razor is shave ready a touch up won't really add any noticeable wear probably for a lifetime. This is one of those things that will go back and forth and never really have an answer. It is personal opinion and either way is right.

Why do you switch to one layer when the bevel is nearly finished?

Originally Posted by Utopian

You don't need tape, but when doing a lot of steel removal during the initial stages of a bevel set on a heavier grind of razor, you are better off with 2 layers of tape. As the top layer wears away you can either change it (if you have more to do) or let it keep wearing away to transition to the angle of a single layer. When the bevel is nearly finished you can switch to only one layer.

Originally Posted by WW243

Why do you switch to one layer when the bevel is nearly finished?

One layer of tape slightly increases the angle of the bevel. Two layers increase it more. Two layers offer more protection during bevel setting but going back to only one layer brings the angle closer to the original angle.

If you don't mind me saying there's some mis-information on here about always using the same type of tape - that is evidenced by the post above where tape is used for bevel set and then removed. If the thickness of the tape made that much difference then removing it completely must make a massive difference - right?

Not according to Glen. Removing tape makes about 1% difference to the bevel angle and this is quickly taken up on somethging like a 4k hone - so the theory is to use tape for bevel set - so as to protect the spine from undue wear, then remove the tape for further polishing.

I always use tape with wedges - there is a calculation tool on Coticule.be that tells you the optimum number of layers depending on spine thickness and blade width. This is nothing to do with protecting the spine - it just corrects the geometry so that you get the correct bevel angle. By the way it also allows you to adjust for the thickness of tape you are using - and the easiest way to establish that is to measure the spine without tape and then with tape - but dont forget to divide the difference by two.

Originally Posted by UKRob

If you don't mind me saying there's some mis-information on here about always using the same type of tape - that is evidenced by the post above where tape is used for bevel set and then removed. If the thickness of the tape made that much difference then removing it completely must make a massive difference - right?

Wrong.
There is no logic to that statement. The "difference" remains the same. It does not become massive upon removal.