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03-27-2014, 01:09 PM #41rhensley
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I've learned what I know about honing straight razors from the videos and I've tried to learn something from all of them and from the people I've talked to. as of now I've honed about 50 razors and hope i'm getting better at least now I can shave with one I honed. I know it will probably be a very long time before I get close to the same class as Lynn-Max-Ssixgun in there ability to hone but there honing gives me a target to shoot for. This forum has also been great with so many willing to help. With the distance between members the videos are the next best thing. I continue to watch them and it seems to help. It's easy to forget and skip or miss a step. anyway keep at it and happy honing and shaving.
Originally Posted by Lakebound
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03-30-2014, 02:12 AM #42Member
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Sigh, honed my razors again today but the result was the same. Best Quality was sharper at the end and was able to pass the HHT, but Bismarck was less sharp and did not (as easily) pass the HHT.
I do think that it is much harder to hone a Bismarck due to its lack of a shoulder. The stria is taller meaning when I am honing it, the blade probably flexed more than that of the Best Quality. Also it was harder to make the stria even.
Next time I hone my Bismarck, I will use minimal pressure and just do back-and-forth X-strokes on my Chosera 1k many many times to set a really solid bevel, instead of using the circle method with pressure.
Shoulder-less blades are hard to hone..
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03-30-2014, 03:07 AM #43Not with my razor 🚫
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How much pressure you apply, and how you apply it makes a difference. The type of pressure we're talking about here is not heavy. It's not bearing down on the blade with your fingers which might be the type used in restoration, i.e. chips or breadknifed edges.
Try honing with one hand by holding the tang with your thumb and index finger and cradling the scales with your other three fingers to keep the blade level on the stone. Pressure.......twist/rotate the edge gently into the stone by a slight twisting motion with your thumb and index finger, keeping the spine in contact with the stone. This is the pressure we're talking about.
Do 20 or 30 circles and then x strokes until you have the bevel set. As you go up in grit, the pressure is less and less and by the finisher, very light to very, very light. I also do about 5 very light strokes at the finish of each grit.
The below video will help with some visuals.
Hope this helps!!!
Regards,
Howard
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vxrs5kF...%3Dvxrs5kFkmJgLast edited by SirStropalot; 03-30-2014 at 03:10 AM.
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03-30-2014, 03:15 AM
#44
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Howard just so ya know the wife was looking of my shoulder and decided that you are OK cause ya gots a Mustang Avatar
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03-30-2014, 03:27 AM
#45
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Yeah, I used to have that Shelby GT 500. Just wasn't practical. Everything it was good for was illegal, immoral, or EXPENSIVE!! Here's a better shot of it. http://straightrazorpalace.com/conve...ml#post1161616
Scroll up a few on the link.
Last edited by SirStropalot; 03-30-2014 at 03:31 AM.
03-30-2014, 04:05 AM
#46
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Awesome instructions. Thank you so much. I am watching the video right now.
I know this is a hotly debated topic, but I read somewhere that one shouldn't really use a tape because a straight razor is designed so that the spine is supposed to wear as you hone so that the bevel is consistent as the razor gets honed over and over.
How much pressure you apply, and how you apply it makes a difference. The type of pressure we're talking about here is not heavy. It's not bearing down on the blade with your fingers which might be the type used in restoration, i.e. chips or breadknifed edges.
Try honing with one hand by holding the tang with your thumb and index finger and cradling the scales with your other three fingers to keep the blade level on the stone. Pressure.......twist/rotate the edge gently into the stone by a slight twisting motion with your thumb and index finger, keeping the spine in contact with the stone. This is the pressure we're talking about.
Do 20 or 30 circles and then x strokes until you have the bevel set. As you go up in grit, the pressure is less and less and by the finisher, very light to very, very light. I also do about 5 very light strokes at the finish of each grit.
The below video will help with some visuals.
Hope this helps!!!
Regards,
Howard
Last edited by spacex; 03-30-2014 at 04:09 AM.
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03-30-2014, 04:22 AM
#47
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spacex,
I tape everything, well, almost. Not my Kamisori's. When learning to hone, IMO, tape. It keeps the spine from getting excessive or irregular hone wear. The difference in the geometry is so insignificant that "it really doesn't make any difference" at this stage.
After you get proficient at honing you can decide then if you want to keep taping or not.
holler if you need help!
Regards,
Howard
03-30-2014, 11:24 AM
#48
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Spine wear doesn't run in parallel with blade depth wear.I know this is a hotly debated topic, but I read somewhere that one shouldn't really use a tape because a straight razor is designed so that the spine is supposed to wear as you hone so that the bevel is consistent as the razor gets honed over and over.
The smaller the blade depth of a razor the more pronounced a change in spine wear will affect the cutting edge angle.
You can do the math yourself to make an estimate of what your spine should be set to using basic trigonometry.
I have a Bismarck next to me so I'll do the math for you.
spine width without tape 5mm
Spine to edge (hypotenuse) 18mm
You have to half the spine width, then double the resultant angle.
Angle = 7.98 degrees = 15.96 degrees.
With 2 layers of tape.
Spine width = 5.6mm
Hypotenuse = 18mm
Angle = 8.95 degrees = 17.9 degrees total.
The angle of a razor is generally accepted to sit between 17 and 22 degrees for a good edge. So 2 layers of tape should be the ideal amount to get a good bevel set.
03-30-2014, 01:41 PM
#49
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http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...-theories.html
Many "Hotly" Debated Topics are here because people would rather type then test
Also just a hint here, but I have read your last two threads about your honing problems and one issue stands out, you continue to judge your honing by how the razor performs on the HHT...
Things I have noted over the years on here and at the meets that hold people back when it comes to honing a straight razor..
Chasing the HHT
Chasing a Mirror Bevel
Failing to get a complete bevel set
Understanding what "sharp" means when honing a SR
Understanding pressure and how to use it correctly
Understanding that there is no "End" to this journey besides a Close Comfortable Shave...
Understanding that this takes time and practice and if it were easy that SR shaving wouldn't have died out oh so many years ago
03-30-2014, 02:47 PM
#50
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Now that i see this thread too, its much easier to comprehend whats going on.. i think op just needs more experience before chasing down hht as it means to him.
