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Thread: Getting my Bismarck to pass the Hanging Hair Test

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    Default Getting my Bismarck to pass the Hanging Hair Test

    I honed my new Dovo Bismarck 6/8" today, but I can't get it to pass the hanging hair test. I personally hone all my razors and my Dovo Best Quality 6/8" does pass the standing hair test.

    I have a Norton 4k/8k and a Naniwa 12k. I do the circle method used by Lynn followed by 10-15 X-strokes on the 4k side with and without pressure, followed by 5-10 X-strokes on the 8k side, followed by 6-8 X-strokes on the Naniwa 12k.

    Does anyone have any advice on getting a Bismarck sharp enough to pass the hanging hair test? Is honing a Bismarck different from honing a best quality? What am I doing wrong?

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    Not with my razor 🚫 SirStropalot's Avatar
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    If you're talking about touching up a razor, then the pressure you mention can make a lot of difference. A touchup, not damaged needs very little pressure on the hones.

    And, yes there is a difference between the Bismarck and Best Quality. The BQ has a stabilized heel and the Bismarck is shoulderless, no stabilizer. If you're applying too much pressure on the Bismarck, you can flex the blade enough that it lifts the edge off the hone.

    I'd back off on the pressure, and maybe not worry so much about the HHT. Test the razor by shaving. If it shaves well the HHT means nothing.

    Regards,

    Howard

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    Quote Originally Posted by SirStropalot View Post
    If you're talking about touching up a razor, then the pressure you mention can make a lot of difference. A touchup, not damaged needs very little pressure on the hones.

    And, yes there is a difference between the Bismarck and Best Quality. The BQ has a stabilized heel and the Bismarck is shoulderless, no stabilizer. If you're applying too much pressure on the Bismarck, you can flex the blade enough that it lifts the edge off the hone.

    I'd back off on the pressure, and maybe not worry so much about the HHT. Test the razor by shaving. If it shaves well the HHT means nothing.

    Regards,

    Howard
    Although the razor came in new, I did my regular routine which involved setting the bevel and honing. When I was setting the bevel, I did use a great amount of pressure, but I used my fingers to hold the blade flat on the stone.

    I will try to use less pressure next time when I touch up my razor (although I don't use any pressure when I'm not setting the bevel). I don't need to set the bevel for a long time...

    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by spacex View Post
    When I was setting the bevel, I did use a great amount of pressure, but I used my fingers to hold the blade flat on the stone.

    Thanks!
    The lifting of the edge that I'm referring to is when you bear down on a blade that has a lot of flex and it basically bends somewhat from the middle of the blade out to the edge. When that happens the edge comes up from the hone and your contact point is now on the top of the bevel and you're actually widening the bevel but the very edge isn't contacting the hone anymore.

    I think backing off the pressure will help, and very likely solve the problem.


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    Thanks again! By the way, is there any disadvantage to over-doing X-strokes on the Naniwa 12k?

    The Naniwa 12k is a "finishing stone." That means, it's supposed to polish the edge. So if I keep doing X-strokes (say 30 or 40 X-strokes) with no pressure, it's supposed to make my razor's edge sharper and more uniform. I'm not sure if there is any downside to over-doing the X-strokes on the Naniwa 12k...

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    Well, you can overdue about anything honing. When you figure that 90% of the sharpening happens at the bevel set! Then sharpness has a diminishing return as you go up the grit scale. By the time you get to the 12k your just putting a final dressing on the edge. It may add a little sharpness, but mostly refining what's already there. On a Naniwa 12k I usually do 10 light x strokes, clean the stone surface off really good and with clean water do about 5 really light, precise strokes.

    30 or 40 sounds a little much. You shouldn't be trying to make up on the 12k what was missed at the lower grits.
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    Hmm.. I've learned a lot from this thread! Next time, I will use a light pressure to set the bevel (I will set the bevel again), then at the end, I will try to give really light precise strokes on my Naniwa 12k. =)
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    Not with my razor 🚫 SirStropalot's Avatar
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    There's an article here somewhere by gssixgun on 90% of the sharpness at the bevel set, etc. it's a very good read! But right now I can't find it.

    Maybe one of the guys seeing this knows where it is and will link it.

    Again,

    EDIT: Well, this may be it. He says 90% of the work, but you'll get the drift reading the article.

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...ry-2011-a.html
    Last edited by SirStropalot; 03-14-2014 at 11:32 PM.
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    Spacex, what are you using to tell when your bevel is set.

    Sounds like it is not set.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    Spacex, what are you using to tell when your bevel is set.

    Sounds like it is not set.
    I look if there is a thin shiny stripe at the edge. I don't really have a good way to tell if a bevel is set.

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