Thread: Missing the Edge

Originally Posted by bruseth

I did have a part of the blade that wasn't pushing water as well as the rest. I really didn't know what to do about that though. So, by needing 'a little attention', what should that attention be? Should I exert some pressure on the blade in that area? Then if I do that, I would keep on adding a bit of pressure to that same area through the rest of my progression?

If you get some time Howard, or anyone else for that matter, maybe you could let me know how to handle that part of the edge that isn't pushing water the way it should?

Thanks so much to you, Howard, and everybody else, for all the really great help you've been giving me. It's the next best thing to y'all actually being next to my side as I go along.

Thanks Again,

Kenny

Well it can be a couple of things. If it's at the toe or heel it could be you're not keeping the blade flat on the hone. If it's a spot between the ends, it can be an uneven grind or if the bevel is wide on one side and narrow on the other exact opposite...... maybe a warp.

For the inner spots, and you said its full hollow, put your index finger just above the edge portion that's missing contact and apply "gentle" pressure during a few x strokes or circles and see if that helps. It might take a few tries depending on the spot. You're not trying to put enough pressure to flex the blade. Modest pressure. Once you have that part making contact without the finger pressure you shouldn't have to continue with it the remainder of the honing.

Also, in general, pressure during honing especially on a full hollow is not bearing down on the blade edge and spine. It's holding the tang with the thumb and index or middle finger applying a slight twist, torquing the edge into the hone. And of course keeping the spine in contact with the hone. We're just talking a slight torque, not trying to roll the blade up.

Keep having fun!!

Howard

Kenny,
Then best thing you can do to really learn quickly is to find someone who is near you who is proficient at honing. My rough journey took me many months and months to learn, lots of $ sending razors to my honing mentor, and I would estimate at about 100 razors it all started to come together. You have a great set of stones, you just have to develop the "feel". Please stay away from sprays & pastes for this venture. Once you get it, you will notice the minor differences of the feel in different razors and it goes on. Once you "think" you have it, do some razor trading with others, both aspiring honers & honing veterans to get some feedback. I participated in a trade a few months ago & funny/honest part was that I was a bit nervous to hear the response on how it shaved. It was a good "gut check".

Before you send the razors back to me, I want you to dull the razors on a bottle or side of your 1K, tape the spine, and re-hone them. Send them to me ready to shave.

BTW, most of us who will readily admit it failed more often than succeeded on producing a truly shave ready blade.

This is why we recommend for new straight users to learn to shave first...we really don't know what shave ready is when we are starting out. Once we know how to shave and then take a dull razor to our face, we know something is amiss. The real fun part is when you start overhoning & scratch your head wondering what is going on. You start out with a blade that is just gliding through whiskers amazingly well and before you finish your shave the blade is really pulling...yep, over-honed edge that was so fragile that it crumbled. Honing is a very rewarding AND frustrating journey, as is anything that is worth it.

First, I am far from an expert with honing. Just getting started myself.

Could this be an issue with lapping the stone/stones?

I did not see it mentioned in the prior posts. Just a thought

Originally Posted by SS502MC

First, I am far from an expert with honing. Just getting started myself.

Could this be an issue with lapping the stone/stones?

I did not see it mentioned in the prior posts. Just a thought

I've been keeping them pretty flat with a couple of diamond hones that I have. Thanks for the idea though.

Thanks,

Kenny

Just one more thing to check (BTW I'm no expert on razor honing but done hundreds of knifes and appreciate that they are two very different animals though the principals are pretty much the same).
Are all your stones completely flat ?

The best way I have found to ensure a completely flat surface is to draw a grid on the stone. Then take your lapping stone (or whatever you are using, I use an 8" course DMT for lapping all of mine). If there are any non flat areas on the stone it becomes very clear because the grid remains. Hope that helps

First look at your razor, put a straight edge against the spine, top and sides and the edge sides to see if they are straight, if not you will have to compensate for the warp. Or lay the blade on a hard flat surface, a stone works. Some warp is normal on vintage razors.

If you hone a full hollow and use too much pressure the blade can flex and the edge will lift off the stone, the back end of the bevel acts as a fulcrum. Too much pressure is a common novice mistake, especially when bevel setting and cause of much frustration.

If the razors are not ebay specials, but have already been honed it should not take too many laps to set the bevel.

With a full hollow, the blade will flex enough with just the weight of a finger on the bevel where the ink is not being removed (warped). Ink is cheap… keep inking the bevel until you understand what the problem is.

Post non photos of the whole blade, both sides as close as you can, it may help.

E...440 has some great ideas. They were exactly what I was going to suggest.
Next step, after ink and tape.... Bin it for awhile until 'it' wants to play again !