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Thread: Missing the Edge
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04-17-2014, 11:46 PM #1
Missing the Edge
I've been honing this 5/8" Wostenholm. This is my 3rd try at it. I'm able to shave with it when I'm done, but I can tell it's not a good job that I did. I am using a 1000 grit Chosera, and 5000, 8000, and 12,000 Super Stones. I have sprays and pastes that I use on my modular strop. But all these nice things, and I still can't produce a really nice edge - I get too much pulling and tugging.
My sister just got a USB Microscope. I used it to see what was taking place on my blade. It looks to me, from the light glinting from the very edge of my razor, that somehow I'm not hitting the extreme edge. The rest of the bevel is nice and shiny, but at the very edge, I think I'm missing it. If that is indeed true, what do I do to correct it? I thought about adding tape, but that would be kind of 'cheating'. I should be able to hit the edge without it.
So if you could check out my kind of poor pictures, and make something out of them, maybe you could help me out?
BTW, the pictures only show how the edge looked after going up to #8000 and stropping. After that I thought I'd see how I was doing before going up to the #12,000 grit SS. When I saw the edge, it didn't make sense to go up if I'm not hitting the whole edge.bruseth
Kenny
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04-17-2014, 11:55 PM #2
Try inspecting the edge after using the 1000k. If the bevel is set at that level, everything else should fall into place. Good luck.
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04-17-2014, 11:58 PM #3
I would say spend more time on the 1k since appears that the bevel is not set. There is no point moving to higher grits until the bevel is completely set. Since you have access to a microscope you can watch the striations reach the edge as you hone. Once the striations reach the edge on both sides you should be good to move on.
Perhaps you are using too much pressure and flexing the edge. This happens easier with the thinner grinds. There are a lot of things that could be going on so it is hard to say for sure.
Good luck!
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04-18-2014, 01:27 AM #4
I would have to agree that the problem appears to be the bevel not being fully set. I know it can feel lime forever, but that is the single most important aspect. It all falls I to place after that.
The older I get the more I realize how little I actually know.
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04-18-2014, 01:30 AM #5
Hey Kenny,,,what type of USB Scope was that ??
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04-18-2014, 01:31 AM #6
Forgot to say, try the sharpie method to see if the bevel is set. The microscope will be perfect.
The older I get the more I realize how little I actually know.
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04-18-2014, 02:02 AM #7
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Thanked: 3215Ink… ink the bevel and do some laps on the 1K until all the ink is removed. Then re-ink and do 10 more lite laps and check to ensure the bevel is completely set.
Do yourself a favor, tape the spine until you have mastered bevel setting. Until then you are grinding away on the spine trying to figure it out. You may be compounding the problem by wearing the spine needlessly.
Do not move up the progression, until you are sure the bevel is completely set.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
bruseth (04-18-2014), ScottGoodman (04-18-2014)
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04-18-2014, 12:10 PM #8
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The Following User Says Thank You to bruseth For This Useful Post:
Hirlau (04-18-2014)
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04-18-2014, 12:46 PM #9
Pretty much everyone is saying the bevel isn't set, and I already figured that That's what has me mystified though. This time, knowing about the importance of bevel setting, I spent a ridiculous amount of time and effort just setting the bevel. And when I figured I was done, it seemed to pass all the tests. I paid especial attention to the hair cutting test. It cut arm hair very easily, or so I thought. But yet, when I was able to look at it under a microscope, it didn't look right .
So back to the #1000 grit... Thank you very much to everyone for all the great suggestions. I am going to ink the edge (don't know why I didn't do it this time), and then keep checking on my progress under the microscope. I had been using a small, lighted magnifier, but I don't think it was really strong enough to adequately show me what was really going on. I may tape the edge too. If I do tape the edge at the #1000 grit level, can I go on to the rest of my progression without taping the edge? I seem to recall reading somewhere that that was possible. If it is possible, I'd rather do that as I really don't like to use tape. Just my own personal preference.
Anyway... Thanks so much for all the help. I'm going to work on this again today. When I get finished setting the bevel, I may post another picture of the magnified results. And then, I will wait till I hear from y'all before going on.
Have a Great One,
Kennybruseth
Kenny
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04-18-2014, 01:48 PM #10
Kenny,
I think you meant to say taping the spine. And, yes you can tape, set the bevel and then remove the tape. However I'd stay at the 1k to make the slight correction to the geometry....shouldn't take too many strokes, or circles and strokes.
Try keeping enough water on the stone so you can see the blade pushing the water evenly on the stone. If one area doesn't move water then it likely needs a little attention. Also, as you get near and at the actual bevel set you should see the edge starting to undercut the water. That's a good sign that you're close or maybe there. Don't put too much water on the surface or it will be deep enough to undercut a non set edge. Also, not enough water and you won't see the movement or undercut. Takes a little practice, but you'll get it!!
and if you get frustrated, put it aside and take a day off!!
Regards,
Howard
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The Following User Says Thank You to SirStropalot For This Useful Post:
bruseth (04-18-2014)