Thread: Trogdor's guide to chip removal

Actually I'm a firm believer in taping, I tape all my razors.
I think I understand what you are saying in the second sentence. The tape increases the angle on the edge, giving you a smaller cutting surface,,, you are seeing the chips disappear quicker, so you attribute this to "pressure" being applied by additional tape layers. Remember,, you raised the spine to aggressively attack the chips,,,, now you've got to drop/remove the additional layers, then set a strong , lasting bevel to finish the honing to shave ready,,,, when if you stick to a 1K chip removal system(refresh the 1 layer, if you need to), then you can continue on with the bevel you have when the chips disappear. .

Basically different systems same end results. By the time the chips are completely removed; I am down to one layer of tape and on the 1k hone. It is a progressive drop down in tape layers. I continue a normal honing regiment from there forward with that one layer of tape usually. Like I said, I could be way off, but I think the extra layers of tape help speed up the chip removal process.

The metal has to go away one way or another, so if the chip is deep coarser hone makes for a speedier job.
As far as pressure it works along the same lines - more pressure makes the steel removal faster (up to a point of course). Using a more steeper angle (e.g. thick layers of tape, holding the razor at an angle to the hone, even to the extreme of holding it perpendicular to the hone known as breadknifing) that allows for more pressure toward steel removal without flexing the blade too much. Flexed blade under pressure can make for ugly wide bevels, even if the final true bevel ends up being cut at the proper geometry with not much pressure.

As far as I am concern at the end of the day what matters is the final result. If there is 1mm of steel to be removed it doesn't matter to me whether that steel was removed in 5min at 200 grit or in 5 hours with 1000grit, it's gone down the drain as swarf and isn't coming back. Of course, overshooting (honing past the chip) with 200grit does more damage than overshooting with 1000grit, but that's trivial to avoid.

Originally Posted by aa1192

I could be way off, but I think the extra layers of tape help speed up the chip removal process.

They do help speed the process much like jointing or breadknifing because the contact is focused to the edge & away from the bevel.
I do this on new G&F razors that usually come from the factory without even a primary bevel set but I use a 320 grit Shapton Pro. It is not honing but more like grinding & repairing.
I'd have to speak to my science teacher mate about what the change in pressure is.

I burninated a pork chop last week. Odor still lingers.

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Originally Posted by Hirlau

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stop trying to de-rail this thread,,, you're almost as bad as Tom,,,, almost,,,,,

Like the OP, I am O K with removing chips any way that works. An extra layer of tape and a Chosera 600 grit stone are working well for me at this time. The 600 stone is a recent addition to my stone collection and I like it a bunch.

I stick with a Norton 1K or a Carborundum around 1000.