Thread: Trogdor's guide to chip removal

Here is my system for removing chips from the edge of a restored razor. The chips will not go past the bevel (Some bevels are wider than others act accordingly) but usually about halfway up or close to that. I will add 3 layers of tape to my razor and hit the DMT 325. I know many people are against going to that low of a grit, but it would take forever on a 1k with the same end results. This is where the circle method, in my mind, really starts to shine for me. I start of with 20 circles both ways then grab the loupe and see where I am. As to the use of pressure.... that is a blade to blade thing for me as all grinds and blades are different. The 325 is really aggressive so you don't need very much: go slow not hard.

At this point, not much has been done and I raise the number to 50 circles and go to work doing it a couple times. Once again, check the bevel with a loupe and decide if you need more circles or to move up. Every couple of circle sets I will throw in about 20 x-pattern strokes to break the monotony and keep everything looking good. Keep checking with that loupe, because you don't want to do any more on the 325 than is necessary. Once you get the chip really close to the edge, where it looks more like a toothy edgy than a chip, move to the 1k.(It's better to jump earlier vs. later since you can always go back.)

On the 1k, I follow the same pattern until my chips are removed and I can progressively remove my tape layers. Here it is even more important to check your loupe; try moving one end of the blade away from you and look for any sign of the chip in the loupe. A good light really helps here and make sure you remove all water so there is no confusion when viewing the blade.

Once you have removed your chip you can move to your normal honing routine with the bevel basically set with a few more strokes. I personally like to listen to the Mustache and Blade podcast while doing this to make the time go by faster. Really make sure you got that chip before you move up!!!!!! Otherwise, you will get to 8k and it will be readily apparent when you view the edge through your loupe and that is a frustrating feeling. I am sure this has been covered before and by far better honers than I, but just wanted to throw out what has worked for me.

I expected to see one word - "Burninate them!"
I feel cheated!

Taking a blade to a 325 grit plate is so rare for me that I can only recall doing it once, and that to remove a very large chip from a Sheffield wedge. I have on occasion gone to the 600 DMT but most of my chip removal has been done with the 1K. I also shy away from more than one layer of tape. I just find it to be a PITA to apply multiple layers. Not saying I won't do it, but I can count the times I have on the fingers of one hand. Different strokes for different folks.

Well burninating is a very specialized skilled, but if you can do it go for it....just watch the steel temper. Perhaps the 600 grit is a better bet, but I only have a 325 so that is what I use. Even at the 325 it can take a while to remove a chip IME. I also hate applying tape, but I see the benefit of added pressure on the edge that is not applied by your own hand. When you starting applying pressure manually; you starting getting ugly bevels if you don't know what you are doing IME. I have a Clauss I tried to power through when I first started honing....its very shaveable, but very ugly due to imcompetence and corner cutting.

Originally Posted by aa1192

Well burninating is a very specialized skilled, but if you can do it go for it....just watch the steel temper. Perhaps the 600 grit is a better bet, but I only have a 325 so that is what I use. Even at the 325 it can take a while to remove a chip IME. I also hate applying tape, but I see the benefit of added pressure on the edge that is not applied by your own hand. When you starting applying pressure manually; you starting getting ugly bevels if you don't know what you are doing IME. I have a Clauss I tried to power through when I first started honing....its very shaveable, but very ugly due to imcompetence and corner cutting.

How is the application of tape, whether 1 layer or 6, applying pressure on the edge?

As Jimmy stated, I use a 1K to remove chips & when I buy a vintage, I take this into consideration. If the chip is too large to work out with a 1K, then I pass on it.

As you bring the razor closer to 90 degrees from the hone more weight is put of the edge right? Also, as the spine comes up less and less of the bevel comes in contact with the hone so I would argue with equal pressure more is distributed to the edge than without tape.

TROGDOR, the BURNINATOR!!! Props for having a great sense of humor!

O.K.,,,,,, not here to argue,,,, just asking,,,,,,,as I'm not a scientist by no means;

but,,,,,

I feel that "pressure" is applied by the hand of the honer,,,, not the "level" of the layered tape. Though,, I guess there technically is an increase in pressure on the edge, as the blade is raised from it's "side lying position" to a fully balanced "edge down position" with no assistance from the honer. This would be "pressure" from the weight of the razor only,,, this pressure in terms of "honing" would be so small, that detecting it or measuring it would be impossible without specialized equipment,,,,,,,,, meaning,,,, any pressure from honing this blade, regardless of the layers of tape is coming from your hand.

Thus, the relationship that you have stated between layers of tape & pressure,, can't hold water with me at this moment.

Layers of tape increase the angle of the cut & sometimes will help to even out the surface of the spine, to assist in setting bevels on problem edges.

Hey I'm no scientist either just what I have noticed and I could be waaaaaayyyy off base. The increase pressure from blade weight pressure is minimal but it would also amplify your hand applied pressure as well IMHO. You would still apply the same pressure by hand with or without tape, but with the tape there is less surface area to distribute the pressure along the edge. So I guess it is the same weight/pressure but more amplified along the areas touching the hone. Lol taping is the most divisive issue huh.... Even I can't decide my true feeling on the matter and go through phases of use and no use. I put small dot stickers on razor cases that need tape so I can remember... Of course not the originals but the toothbrush cases I use. As always YMMV.

I don't understand this thread. Thanks anyway, moving on to Show Me Your Shave Den.