Thread: Tweaking the Edge with Tape

Over the last several years, there has been a lot of information and discussion on the best way to hone a razor. All of it is good. It keeps us looking for better ways to do things.

There has also been a great deal of misinformation. Mostly in regard to the concept of double "bevels", and "micro-bevels".Here, I will attempt to clarify what I am doing, when I hone a razor.Or, how it is possible to add additional tape, during the honing process, and not create a "micro-bevel".

As of 7/2014, this is how I hone my razors. But, I am still learning too. This may all be obsolete next month. There are a lot of good ways to hone a razor. This is just how I do it.


1. A 4000 Grit stone is great for the final setting of an edge. It straightens and smooths things up very well. The resulting bevel has relatively coarse striations on the side, and prominent serrations along the top.




2. Following the 4000 stone with 8000 polishes the side of the bevel.This refines any irregularities left by the 4000 grit stone on theside of the bevel. But, notice even though the serrations have gotten smaller, at the actual cutting edge, they are still there.

Further work with the 8000 stone would eventually remove these serrations. But it would take a long time. The photo here is after 20 strokes onthe 8000.




3. The same thing is evident at the 12,000 grit level. The side of the bevel is even more polished. But, there are still prominent serrations at the edge.




4. Here is where I add one, or two, additional layers of tape. The technique is to take 10 - 20 very light strokes, using only the weight of the razor for down pressure. If I do it well, all the serrations are knocked off the edge, without creating a secondary, or micro-bevel.




Excessive down pressure, or number of strokes, will create a micro bevel. I am trying to avoid that. Note that that no micro bevel is evident in thephoto. There is just a hint of slight rounding. An additional 20 strokes would give a micro-bevel.

I use an Escher, or 12,000 grit Chinese stone for this step. These finish hones have been lapped on 2000 grit Silicon Carbide sandpaper.


5. The final step is stropping. It is very difficult to get a good photo at this magnification and level of polish. In this photo, all thetape has been removed. Notice that the strop contacts the edge, even without any tape. There isn't a micro-bevel to be seen...




The stropping sequence was: Chromium oxide on balsa, Chromium Oxide on hanging leather, hanging clean horsehide.

As for the photos, I kept the illumination the same on the first three. I had to turn in down on the last one to see any detail. The polish is just too high. I did the exact same sharpening and contrast adjustments on all the photos. The blade was one of my Damascus blades at 62HRC. It is actually the blade in the "Hannah's Razor" post. I had to sharpen it anyway...

In summary, there are many ways to "skin this sharpening cat".There is no "best" way. This is just how I do it. Adding tape during the honing process is an interesting, and useful technique. If you are careful, the serrations on the cutting edge will be removed, without creating a micro-bevel.

If you want to purposely create a micro-bevel, go ahead. That is valid as well. I just prefer to have one bevel.


I hope all this helps to untangle the "Double Dutch" and Polish.