Thread: Factory new Dovo set bevel or half a pyramid

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I also would give stropping and shave testing a try. If it needs more I start at the top, 12k or so and try a touchup. Work my way down if I have to. No deadline to meet. I only go to bevel setting if it is necessary. Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't IME. YMMV.

Tryed the stropping and shave had to switch razor mid shave it was ugly

I would set the bevel as was said here. Just do it! You wont have to do it again anytime soon. One other issue is you have to "wear" your honing stroke into the blade. If its honed heel leading and you use straight laps, then you will have different hone exposure to the edge.

Originally Posted by bill3152

I would set the bevel as was said here. Just do it! You wont have to do it again anytime soon. One other issue is you have to "wear" your honing stroke into the blade. If its honed heel leading and you use straight laps, then you will have different hone exposure to the edge.

Is it ok to set bevel using straight strokes and not x-strokes I fell as though I have more control with straight versus x

Whatever stroke you are comfortable with as you will be honing that blade. Learning different strokes is helpful but at the moment do what you feel works for you. Set it the way you always hone. There will be plenty of time in the future to experiment with different strokes.

If it helps, I enquired about how my new razor was honed to shave ready and was told they just strop it on felt loaded with pastes(this was invisible edge in the UK). I have since reset the bevel myself and
O shaves better than when I first got it. It may not be better but my face tells me it is

Won't the bevel already be set, just not at a known angle ?

New Dovo Out the Box

Stropped, looked good and shaved like ground glass. On advice (link above) I set a bevel, honed and stropped CrOx and leather in the regular way; shaved like perfection.

I always take any modern new german razor and set the edge against my stone. If it shows any light at all, I work the edge perpendicular to the stone until it doesn't, and then mute the ends slightly and set the bevel and go from there. Anything else is an exercise in complete frustration. Your razor needs to match your stones, and you're far better off if the entire edge touches the surface of your stone rather than having too work a frown or something of the sort over the edges.

I just set up an unused 7 day set a few weeks ago, kobar brand probably 40 years old or so from solingen, and all of the razors had some level of frown. They all shaved great and were otherwise delightful to hone after the bevel was set.

Exact same answer as when you asked before

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...ave-ready.html

If you are ever going to learn to hone you HAVE TO learn to make the initial assessment of the edge, you are asking us to tell you what we would do based on our experience which is just a WAG when it comes to your razor which we cannot see, touch, or test to do an actual assessment..

So with that in mind exactly what MJC said above holds true, "If I didn't set the bevel myself, then the bevel isn't set" is a good rule

What Jimmy said also is a good solid approach which is starting at the top and working your way down the grit ladder until the edge starts shaving.. It is a good way to learn how to assess the edge too, as it is slower and a better teaching tool


DO NOT hone going straight up and down the hone, there is not one experienced honer that has ever showed that in any video, or at any meet, it leads to a frowned blade...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Exact same answer as when you asked before

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...ave-ready.html

If you are ever going to learn to hone you HAVE TO learn to make the initial assessment of the edge, you are asking us to tell you what we would do based on our experience which is just a WAG when it comes to your razor which we cannot see, touch, or test to do an actual assessment..

So with that in mind exactly what MJC said above holds true, "If I didn't set the bevel myself, then the bevel isn't set" is a good rule

What Jimmy said also is a good solid approach which is starting at the top and working your way down the grit ladder until the edge starts shaving.. It is a good way to learn how to assess the edge too, as it is slower and a better teaching tool


DO NOT hone going straight up and down the hone, there is not one experienced honer that has ever showed that in any video, or at any meet, it leads to a frowned blade...

Thank you for the advice I have made arrangements to fly out and spend a day with Lynn Abramms to learn proper technique I want to do it right from the start and continue to get better. Videos are great but you can't learn feel from them

Originally Posted by 430pat

Thank you for the advice I have made arrangements to fly out and spend a day with Lynn Abramms to learn proper technique I want to do it right from the start and continue to get better. Videos are great but you can't learn feel from them

This will save you lots of time and frustration in the long run - good call.

John.