Thread: Troublesome TI that wont take a hone more than 8-10k

The TIs I get in for honing(modern) almost always have a double bevel or wavy bevel. I straighten them out with a 4k(6 micron) dmt. For whatever reason seems that the dmt cuts faster than a chosera 1k. I dont know why. Anyway it always takes a long time to get the bevel set. After the dmt, I start from the 1k chosera and up. If synth edge, like this never seen trouble going to a 20k suehiro, but the bevel as was said is the battle here always IMO.

A word of caution for novice honers, using diamond plates for bevel setting, while they can get bevels flat… quicker, they also can lead to chipping down the road, when heavy pressure and course plates are used.

I have had some success with new TI's and other hard steel, getting the bevels flat with diamond plates but not meeting, not completely set, then complete the bevel set with a 1k to avoid chipping in the finish hones.

If they do chip, remove chipping with light jointing on the corner of the stone and re-set the bevel until the edge will hold.

Originally Posted by bill3152

The TIs I get in for honing(modern) almost always have a double bevel or wavy bevel. I straighten them out with a 4k(6 micron) dmt. For whatever reason seems that the dmt cuts faster than a chosera 1k. I dont know why. Anyway it always takes a long time to get the bevel set. After the dmt, I start from the 1k chosera and up. If synth edge, like this never seen trouble going to a 20k suehiro, but the bevel as was said is the battle here always IMO.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

A word of caution for novice honers, using diamond plates for bevel setting, while they can get bevels flat… quicker, they also can lead to chipping down the road, when heavy pressure and course plates are used.

I have had some success with new TI's and other hard steel, getting the bevels flat with diamond plates but not meeting, not completely set, then complete the bevel set with a 1k to avoid chipping in the finish hones.

If they do chip, remove chipping with light jointing on the corner of the stone and re-set the bevel until the edge will hold.

Another trick:

I consider a Plate for a Pre-bevel and use them for drastic repair, correction etc: but if you add an extra layer of tape or two when using them you will confine the deep scratches they impart to the very end of the bevel, Once corrected, you drop the extra tape, kill the edge lightly and re-set a normal bevel, this will take out the deep scratches and leave you with a clean strong bevel again, with minimal effort... Saves me a ton of time
Hone On !!!!

Did just that recently with a Richmond razor, said to be made from the steel he makes his knives from, a very hard and brittle steel.
I experienced a lot of chipping, as did a couple of others in a recent post. Jointed and re-honed a couple of time with no success.

Then I went to 3 layers of tape, jointed and dropped to two tape layers and finished the bevel set on the Chosera. The edge held well and is a nice shaver with a wide blade that sells for 25 -30 dollars, I forget.

The blade otherwise is well ground, nice, straight and wide, It will make a nice blade for customization or entry level razor. Getting an edge on it could give you fits, though. The edge is holding well and should, as hard as it is. They do need some new scales badly. It’s on the bench and in line.

This tip does work well for hard chippy steel and Diamond plates.