Thread: naniwa specialty stones

Yea, the synthetic slurry/lapping stone that comes with most synthetic stones.

I don’t use any slurry with any of my synthetics, other than what is generated by honing and even then I keep my stones pretty clean, in use using a squirt bottle to keep the stone face flooded. That works better that a spray bottle, I think. I also use a plastic tray, the kind they use is fast food joints to contain the runoff, works well.

Really don’t need slurry with synthetics and I doubt it breaks down like a natural. If I need more aggressive action, I will drop down in grits, I have a 800 and 600 that I use occasionally for repair work, bevel re-setting on hard steel.

In short I do not think there is much benefit from slurring a synthetic stone, in either aggressiveness or polish.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Oh, I thought you said you had a natural 12k. If you have a Super Stone use it.

Actually the 12K Super Stone is pretty aggressive and while many use it as a finisher it can do a lot more. It is a great finisher and very versatile stone. I have even bevel set on it, takes a few laps but it can do it.

Just refresh on the 12K, it will take out most microchips with a bit of pressure then 10 or so finishing laps and you are good. Just look straight down on the edge to make sure all the chips are gone.

I never use any of the naugras on synthetic stones and use a 600 diamond plate. I prefer a more aggressive finish and use a diamond plate, to remove the glaze and get a fresh face on the 12K, I prefer the 600 on the 12K and a 300 grit plate on 1-4K stones. You can use the 300 on all of them but I like the 600 on the 12K and use it as a pre-finisher after an 8K.

The 2x3 credit card diamond plates also work well for refreshing an a stone face, they are a bit small but once lapped flat, they work well and run about 15-20 bucks for the 3 plate set, 320/600/1200 or you can buy them individually. They are handy for all kinds of repairs and a great value.

You set a bevel on an Naniwa 12k...Lord Thunderin' Jesus, there's my lesson for the day....wow!

I have a set of Naniwa professional and use a small diamond plate to raise a little slurry - I find this keeps the surface of the hone cleaner. Having said that, the Professional range don't suffer from a build up of swarf to any great degree.

The stone that comes with some of the Naniwa range is for cleaning as far as I'm concerned and there's no way I would use it as a slurry stone.

Originally Posted by Phrank

You set a bevel on an Naniwa 12k...Lord Thunderin' Jesus, there's my lesson for the day....wow!

It actually works much better than a Swaty for bevel setting!

Originally Posted by Phrank

You set a bevel on an Naniwa 12k...Lord Thunderin' Jesus, there's my lesson for the day....wow!

And you thought your honing sessions were long.

Bob

I use the old Naniwa Super Stones and none of them came with Nagura slurry stones. I just use a DMT 325 to keep them clean and flat.

Bob

“You set a bevel on an Naniwa 12k...Lord Thunderin' Jesus, there's my lesson for the day....wow!”

Yea, when I get a new to me vintage blade and I am going to clean it up with steel wool and 1 &2k W/D. I lightly breadknife the edge, with a 600 grit diamond file. Just lightly remove the edge and any micro-chips, so you can see the edge with the naked eye, when looking straight down on it.

It makes it a lot safer to work on and it will get a full re-honing anyway.

So the bevels are flattish and pretty close to the final angle, the bevels just need to be brought back to meeting, a bit more than just a normal touch up.

It takes some laps, I forget exactly how many, more than 50 and less than a hundred. I did use some pressure, but it can be easily done. I was surprised by how aggressive it was, checking the bevel after 20 lap sets.

It is surprising what you can learn from a stone when you push the limits using varying pressure and the number of laps, much like one stone honing.

I might try that with a GS 20K, that is also a very aggressive stone, for its grit.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“You set a bevel on an Naniwa 12k...Lord Thunderin' Jesus, there's my lesson for the day....wow!”

Yea, when I get a new to me vintage blade and I am going to clean it up with steel wool and 1 &2k W/D. I lightly breadknife the edge, with a 600 grit diamond file. Just lightly remove the edge and any micro-chips, so you can see the edge with the naked eye, when looking straight down on it.

It makes it a lot safer to work on and it will get a full re-honing anyway.

So the bevels are flattish and pretty close to the final angle, the bevels just need to be brought back to meeting, a bit more than just a normal touch up.

It takes some laps, I forget exactly how many, more than 50 and less than a hundred. I did use some pressure, but it can be easily done. I was surprised by how aggressive it was, checking the bevel after 20 lap sets.

It is surprising what you can learn from a stone when you push the limits using varying pressure and the number of laps, much like one stone honing.

I might try that with a GS 20K, that is also a very aggressive stone, for its grit.

This reply get's a "copy and paste" and inserted into my honing file....thanks!

When' I've got free week I'll try setting the bevel on one....

I concur with the Naniwa SS12k being quite aggressive if needed. I was trying to hone a recent production TI (the c135 kind) a couple of weeks ago. After doing a breadknife on the DMT325, I got a decent bevel on the 1k, but it wouldn't improve past that. Wanting to see if it was the c135 steel that was too hard for my light pressure strokes, I slapped a layer of tape on the spine and did 20 half-strokes (Japanese style) on each side with low to medium pressure on the 12k. The "micro" bevel I got was about 20% of the previous bevel's width. I'll be experimenting further with this when I get some free time, I want to see if I can get a shave ready edge by jumping from the 1k to the 12k by just adding a layer of tape between the two stones.. Sorry, going off topic here...

In conclusion, be careful with pressure on the 8k and 12k.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by Phrank

This reply get's a "copy and paste" and inserted into my honing file....thanks!

When' I've got free week I'll try setting the bevel on one....

Yes but I believe it'll take more than a week. and there's one thing for sure by the time you get the razor sharp you'll need a shave or some one to weave the beard.