Thread: Getting a harsh edge from Suehiro 20k

Progression for touch up was as follows: coticule, thuringian, Suehiro 20k. I have been getting comfortable shaves from just the coticule and the thuringian but would like an even sharper edge. However, I want to maintain the soft edge I already have. Do Suehiro's just impart a harsher edge, am I doing too many strokes? Any help will be appreciated. I think there are some bevel issues. I am going to dull the razor and start with a 1k with tape, 3k no tape but using a sharpie to see when my bevel is correct, then on to the rest.

David

Going all the way back to 1k seems kind of drastic :<0) Harsh sometimes means very sharp. I got that when I started using a 12k Nani. Zulu made it smooth out and It stayed sharp. If somebody ever invents a way to watch as you hone at the molecular level it would sure answer a lot of questions .

Depending on why it is harsh. I think sometimes when you go to far with an edge it gets harsh. I call it a prickly shave. Some hones do and others not. I am not a user of the 20K, but have experience harsh edges from others.

+1 to both of the above posts. Try taking it back to your thuri for a few strokes. Might 'take the harsh off the edge. I've also had that experience with high grit synthetics when I was used to a natural edge. A few licks on the escher and it was more what I was used to.

Maybe I'll try that. Sitting here looking at the progression of stones I have laid out makes me sleepy. The principal reason I am considering going all the way back to the 1k is that after using a sharpie, the Suehiro didn't remove all the ink. After a while it removed most of it but not all. When I hone, I start with a 1k with a taped spine and then take the tape off for the 3k. Then I move to the naturals. In this case, I don't think I spent enough time on the 3k evening out the bevel.

Maybe so. It should have removed the ink at the bevel, not necessarily the ink that was over top of the bevel. If it wasn't catching the ink at the bevel something else must be going on.

BTW, my experience with harsh edges on high grit synthetics does not include the Suehiro 20k. That has been giving me very smooth results on a variety of razors. I've also sold a few honed with the 20k and gotten feedback from buyers saying they were pleased with the edges.

Everybody is different though, and if you're used to coticule and thuringan edges a synthetic, even a Suehiro, might be different enough to feel harsh.

I have no idea why you are taking the tape off, change it I understand, add a layer I understand, but by taking the tape off your first 20 strokes on the 3K are just getting you back to the edge and have you honing only the shoulder of the bevel. The first time I saw that I thought you had simply miss typed it.

I don't get the 1k tape/3k no tape thing either. If you're not using tape 3k up, I'd start by getting rid of the tape - in general. In this specific instance, I'd start with JimmyHAD's suggestion and go back to the Thuri and test shave. If it's still harsh, I'd probably go to the 1k without tape and then back up.

Also try the Sharpie again but with just one or two strokes per side on the 1k or 3k, weight of the blade and see if it wears off at the apex of the bevel or up on the shoulder of the bevel. If it wears on the shoulder, you' may be using too much pressure.

How many strokes are using on the Suehiro?

Cheers, Steve

I need the tape on the 1k to prevent hone wear. I do not want to have to tape them every time I refresh them so I transition from a taped razor to an untapped razor at 3k. Also, some of my razors were honed not using tape by vendors and it would be impossible to know which ones to tape and which ones not to tape, therefore I lose the tape. I was instructed to do this by someone who puts excellent edges on razors.

I've always found the Suehiro to give a great edge not harsh at all. Usually if a razor is proper sharp but harsh the issue lies further back in the honing process. Sometimes a few trips on some CrO will remove the harsh but that's assuming there isn't a real issue with the edge. If that's the case you have to start looking with some mag and then decide how far back you need to go.