Thread: My head is in a spin

Originally Posted by semperfi6141

YES,i done some reading,my brands are the Japanese" king "6000 ceramic,chinese stone 12,000,the Chinese stone 2000/5000,1,000 naniwa,the cream coticule from Poland,Got on order for
a nice Chinese 3000/8000 stone.To much of my supprise the chineses stones are doing well,its the ceramic ones 6000,and 10,000 which do seem to do any good
The coticule and the 12,000 grey Chinese stone,also the 1000 naniwa to set the bevel are the best ones.I am not for sure, but 3000/8000 are on their way.
yes, I have sent some to an expert this guy does it all and does a good job,not cheap.I also believe that the steel on some of the razor have something to do with the sharpless of the blade.I hope I have answered your questions

OK, this is hard to keep straight. Your punctuation is killing our (or at least my) comprehension.

Originally Posted by semperfi6141

The synthetic hones are the 6,000 and the 10,000 the rest are stone.i do notice at times that I use to much pressure while honing,so have to remember to use light pressure on 8,000,coc. and 12,000 stones.Thank you guys for all the help.

If the only synthetic hones are the ceramic 6k and 10k, and the rest are stone, then which are the Naniwas?

If this is correct and everything but the 6k and 10k are synthetic, then you have more problems.

Your natural stones are not, and cannot, have accurate grit ratings. They may be correctly ranked in order of reducing aggressiveness or scratch pattern (which do not necessarily correlate), but that in no way guarantees what you are calling a 1k is actually capable of setting a bevel.

Without a bevel, the rest of the hones are useless.

Do you own a lighted loupe. Seeing your edge under magnification will help you develop you honing skills. You will also be able to see the differences in the scratch marks and edge as you move through your stone progression.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnifying-L...item19f4e6ebc4

Originally Posted by Utopian

Have you done much reading here? I ask because you are asking fairly broad questions. For that reason, I'm going to ask some specific questions.\\.... .

One more question.
Have you tried the magic marker test?

Apply magic marker ink to the edge and the spine.
Let dry...

Now one perhaps two smooth slow hone strokes and inspect.

The ink should vanish from the edge with no hair line of ink
on the sharp edge and nearly as important the spine should see
a nice clean even brightness clean steel.

Color of the marker can be important. Pick a color that is easy
for you to see. It also helps me to inspect in sunlight. A line
of red or blue jumps out to me...

You might have to many hones going on in your progression. Unless I'm fixing a chip or a REALLY bad bevel, my progression is 1k,4k,8k, PHIG (C12K (Utopian)) and a CrOx pasted paddle. I've honed 100+ razors with this progession. And if I just need to refresh I start with 8K or greater

Confucius say: man with many hones and little knowledge have a nice rock collection.

Start with a basic stone and learn how to use it before buying more. The knowledge on how to use it is all over our site and this forum.

My opinion is keep the couticle and nani 1000.
Sell the others. Buy the 5000,8000,12000 nanis, 1or2 holders, and a lapping stone.
Then go back to the videos.
Then understand how to hone different blade styles. (Straight,smiley,etc.)
Then learn your couticle.
All stones are different, by using the same make you cant go wrong.

Originally Posted by semperfi6141

Absolutely right ,but WOW they sure are expensiveAre they all stone or ceramic?

Expensive? Maybe but you gain uniformity and know what the grits really are with Naniwa resin bonded hones unlike with naturals. With the mix of hones you have now you may not really know where they fit into a honing progression. This is one place where a more expensive up front payout has dividends in the long run.

Bob

Not all synthetic stone work well for razors, they may work for knives but only proven performers are recommended especially when learning to hone. And Natural stone are even more random.

Start with a proven 1k synthetic stone and learn to set a bevel, and a 4/8 progression. If you don’t do this you are in for a long and bumpy road… needlessly. Many that travel that road… give up.

Go back and read the first 3 threads in the Honing forum.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by semperfi6141

Absolutely right ,but WOW they sure are expensiveAre they all stone or ceramic?

Well they don't have to be super expensive, there are some good sellers on ebay and the 10 mm thick ones are definitely not too spendy.
It looks to me like for what you have spent on the shotgun spray of stones you have you could have bought a 1, 3, 8 and maybe 12k finisher of a known brand such as naniwa. It is also worth bearing in mind that most people say that assigning a definite grit rating to a natural stone is not really possible. I am no master honer or even anywhere near, just what I have read.

Ed, I am giving you a Like because of two things aside from general content: one is "a shotgun spray of stones" and the other is learning another Aussie expression: Master Hover.

Originally Posted by edhewitt

Well they don't have to be super expensive, there are some good sellers on ebay and the 10 mm thick ones are definitely not too spendy.
It looks to me like for what you have spent on the shotgun spray of stones you have you could have bought a 1, 3, 8 and maybe 12k finisher of a known brand such as naniwa. It is also worth bearing in mind that most people say that assigning a definite grit rating to a natural stone is not really possible. I am no master hover or even anywhere near, just what I have read.