Thread: My head is in a spin

As a beginner I have started different grit stones 1000, 2000/5000 ,3000,8000,12,000 vs. 6000,10,000 ceramic stones.I can not seem to get any luck with this super ceramic stones.I also have my best stone which always works a" polish cuticle''stone.My problem is the sequence that I am using the stones for a better edge.Can anyone give some help.Also a little confused about using pastes on the linen strop?Seems like they start from .01 morc.---------50,000.Some guys do not use any stones from 3000 grit stone ,their next step is using nothing but laping pastes all the way to the finish.
Thank you for the help

Have you done much reading here? I ask because you are asking fairly broad questions. For that reason, I'm going to ask some specific questions.

What brand of hones are you using?

Is your "best stone" a coticule?

Have you used a razor honed by anyone else?

You describe your problem being the sequence. If you have 1k, 2k, 3k, 5k, 8k, and 12k, then that is the sequence you should use them. Though I would use them all, you can skip at least the 3k in the sequence. The most critical is the 1k to set the bevel. If you fail that, the rest of the sequence is a waste of time.

Do you understand, or have done much reading on, setting the bevel?

Personally, I would skip the pastes for now as they will only refine edges that you apparently cannot produce yet.

Also, if you have other questions along these lines, you might want to post them in the Honing section, or in whatever other section your next questions may fit better.

Odds are that a moderator will move this thread to another section and if they do they are welcome to delete this post.

Well to reinforce what was stated above:
The bevel is the foundation of you edge. Without a perfectly formed apex no amount of polishing will make it shave. The majority of the forming of the apex is done on the 1K, you then polish and refine the edge in the subsequent hones. Imagine this, a perfect apex is a V and when you start working it it is a U. Until that U is a fully formed V you can polish the sides of the U all you want it will never be a V, just a shiny U. U's never shave but V's are awesome shavers.

Originally Posted by Utopian

Have you done much reading here? I ask because you are asking fairly broad questions. For that reason, I'm going to ask some specific questions.

What brand of hones are you using?

Is your "best stone" a coticule?

Have you used a razor honed by anyone else?

You describe your problem being the sequence. If you have 1k, 2k, 3k, 5k, 8k, and 12k, then that is the sequence you should use them. Though I would use them all, you can skip at least the 3k in the sequence. The most critical is the 1k to set the bevel. If you fail that, the rest of the sequence is a waste of time.

Do you understand, or have done much reading on, setting the bevel?

Personally, I would skip the pastes for now as they will only refine edges that you apparently cannot produce yet.

YES,i done some reading,my brands are the Japanese" king "6000 ceramic,chinese stone 12,000,the Chinese stone 2000/5000,1,000 naniwa,the cream coticule from Poland,Got on order for
a nice Chinese 3000/8000 stone.To much of my supprise the chineses stones are doing well,its the ceramic ones 6000,and 10,000 which do seem to do any good
The coticule and the 12,000 grey Chinese stone,also the 1000 naniwa to set the bevel are the best ones.I am not for sure, but 3000/8000 are on their way.
yes, I have sent some to an expert this guy does it all and does a good job,not cheap.I also believe that the steel on some of the razor have something to do with the sharpless of the blade.I hope I have answered your questions

I am a little confused as to what stones are synthetic. Are all your hones synthetic except the Coti and Chinese 12K?
Step one:
Naniwa 1K until the bevel is set and the apex is perfect. Check it with a loupe and ensure it can cut hair. It should feel sharp enough to cut your finger prints off without drawing blood.

Step two:
3K until the scratches from the 1K are gone. Check this with your loupe frequently.
Step three:
5K until the scratches from the 3K are gone
Step four:
8K until the scratches from the 5K are gone.
Step five strop and shave
I could write on and on about the use of pressure and how much is enough and how much is too much. Basically if you have a light, misty slurry it shows you water movement in front of the blade really well. You need to use enough pressure that it clears the stone and not much more. Watching the movement of your water will show you things about how your stroke is doing and how your bevel is progressing.

Moved to honing so it gets more attention

Originally Posted by RezDog

I am a little confused as to what stones are synthetic. Are all your hones synthetic except the Coti and Chinese 12K?
Step one:
Naniwa 1K until the bevel is set and the apex is perfect. Check it with a loupe and ensure it can cut hair. It should feel sharp enough to cut your finger prints off without drawing blood.

Step two:
3K until the scratches from the 1K are gone. Check this with your loupe frequently.
Step three:
5K until the scratches from the 3K are gone
Step four:
8K until the scratches from the 5K are gone.
Step five strop and shave
I could write on and on about the use of pressure and how much is enough and how much is too much. Basically if you have a light, misty slurry it shows you water movement in front of the blade really well. You need to use enough pressure that it clears the stone and not much more. Watching the movement of your water will show you things about how your stroke is doing and how your bevel is progressing.

The synthetic hones are the 6,000 and the 10,000 the rest are stone.i do notice at times that I use to much pressure while honing,so have to remember to use light pressure on 8,000,coc. and 12,000 stones.Thank you guys for all the help.

I don't know if mixing synthetic and natural hones in a honing progression is that good an idea, maybe it is. I would have thought the the the easy, uniform and simplified way to start would be with all Naniwas, 1K, 3K, 8K and 12K to finish.

Bob

Absolutely right ,but WOW they sure are expensiveAre they all stone or ceramic?