Thread: "Sharpness" - is it a bevel issue?

So first, if you are doing a comparison use the same stones otherwise it is not a comparison.

Second using a natural stone is more difficult than a synthetic stone, there is a large learning curve especially for Coticules.

Third, use magnification, so you can see if you are making progress. You need to see, if you are honing to the edge, ink the bevel. The TPT takes a while to calibrate, until then use your eyes. Your eyes and magnification will tell you a lot more that the TPT ever will, you cannot feel micro chipping with TPT.

You need a foolproof test, to ensure you have a fully set bevel, before you move on to higher grit stones.

Do use tape to protect the spine until you learn to hone. Read the first 4 threads in the honing forum, they are packed with good, solid honing tips.

As said there is not a formula for honing, you do what is needed. Kind of like driving, close your eyes, step on the gas count to 10 and turn right , count to 5 and turn left… probably not going to work out well.

It really is not that difficult, setting the bevel is key, after that it’s just polishing for comfort. Magnification and Pressure are also important, more of one less of the other.

Thank you.
Microscope is in the post to me - taken on board. I will get back with some pictures when that arrives. Appreciate the help.

I remember that when I started to drive it did feel like "painting by numbers!". I hope, like driving, it becomes natural to me without car crashes

Here is a great thread, on what to look for and what you are seeing when looking at a bevel and edge with magnification.

Being able to see is one thing, being able to interpret, what you are seeing is another.

Much of this hobby is the ability to identify problems, and then correct them.

Definitely sounds like a bevel that isn't set completely. Go back to your bevel setter. I use magnification to make sure the edge is straight and the bevel is consistently scratched for the hone I'm on. The best tricks I've learned is to look at the bevel in a strong light and run the reflection all the way from toe to heel, any inconsistencies will be readily apparent.

After you think you have the bevel set try shaving you arm dry at skin level, you should see and feel hair being cut. If that works now run the edge across your thumb nail, use light pressure, less than weight of the blade, if it consistently bites the whole way it's set. Now go back to the bevel setter and do a few finishing passes to repair any damage from testing then continue your progression.

If during the thumb nail test you feel and inconsistency in the way the edge bites it isn't set.

IMO setting the bevel set is an often under appreciated and misunderstood step in the process of honing. YOU CANNOT REFINE AN EDGE THAT DOESN'T EXIST.

Don't mean to pick on you, just see a bunch of posts similar to this one, " it's shiny but it don't shave good".

Bevel setting= edge creation
Everything after= edge refinement

also watch the water. Notice the difference between when it's set and isn't. The water will show things wrong with edge that you will miss under 10x, well at least for me. The edge shouldn't push the water, it should cut under it.

not at all.
I am here for a shaving education This forum got me to shave without irritation with a straight, and now I'm hoping we can manage honing too.
Thanks for the help that has been provided so far. That link on microscopy I missed when I was perusing the library for bevel setting.