Thread: honing progression with pictures and extra details!!!

So I am still working with the GD (I know run for the hills!) hahaha but really IMO I think they these razors have been a valuable asset in learning how to fix, hone and repair razors. It's apparent that these razors aren't consistent and have issues that YOU have to learn how to fix. I have a digital micrometer and have measured everything to make sure everything is on the up and up. Now with that to the side hopefully I don't have anyone chasing me with a pitch fork after saying that... I just felt I should explain about the razor prior and give more details as Glen explained his distaste for threads going off into the abyss. I also used 2 layers of electrical tape this time as suggested from glen, also "killed" the edge after setting the bevel (as seen in pictures) now I don't count how many passes I'm doing on each stone because IMO honing isn't a mathematical equation and there is no super formula that will give u perfect results everytime. I do spend as much time as I need on each stone look under the scope and see how my edges are looking, checking for chips, the scratch pattern and shiny portions of the edge (as I don't know the term for it) I do work a lot more on the lower grits and spend less time on the higher stones because I work out a lot of my issues before I even get up in the higher grits. Here are my results, let me know what you think, if there are things I could improve on and suggestions ops would appreciate it as all of you have been very helpful in my process... Also as to cut away from variables this is the same spot on the razor, well the best I could to get the same spot, thanks elucid!

This is with the Shapton Pro Series Stones

1k bevel set

Killing the edge 1k

Finished with the 1k

2k

5k

8k

15k



After everyone seeing my progession I have noticed after I'm done with the 15k my edge looks the same if not worse has anyone else had issues with the 15k shapton pro?

No idea why the two attached photos are on the. Potok sorh... Ignore them

Give it a good stropping and see how it looks. Sometimes residue can stick to the edge and throw the look of it. If that is a different spot on the edge that you are looking at through the scope there could have been something there that you didn't see before. Make sure you look at the same spot. In the end it comes down to the shave. Just because it looks nice doesn't mean it will shave. I recently looked at a razor that was in my rotation for quite awhile that was shaving beautifully, but the edge looked horrible. Ended up taking it to the hones because I didn't like the look of it even though it shaved. Surprises me how strong a human hair can be.

Looking at the pics and listening to what you are doing it almost looks as though the steel can't hold the 15k Pro edge
There are some old threads about the Shapton Pro hones not being optimal for SR honing, I honestly don't know many that use them.
I would try a shave after the 8k and stropping and see how it feels

There is another trick Technique called a Micro-Bevel or Secondary Bevel..

You might try the same thing through the 8K then before you go to the 15k add one more layer of tape and see if that holds the edge better..

The 1-8 levels look better from what I see

Yes the 8K looks better than the 15K. Over all looks good and as said a good stropping will probably shave. Some Chrome Oxide might clean it up.

Try stropping after the 8k on linen and leather 10-15 laps, then hone on the 15k.

Or sometimes, I lightly joint the 8k edge, strop on linen or canvas, then reset the edge on the finish stone. Watch your pressure, the edge should come together after a few laps.

There could be a lot of reasons, it is either the razor/steel, bad steel or on vintage, possible cell rot, too aggressive a stone while repairing,(Diamonds are notorious for this), too much pressure.

The stone, not lapped properly, or a burr on one edge.

The honer, too much pressure, not enough laps, too many laps.

Narrow down the possibilities, but I would lap the 15k with the 2 & 5K and round or bevel the edges.

When you are working up your progression, alternate direction on your finish laps, eg. finish 1k straight so the stria is 90 degrees to the edge. on the next stone do finish laps, at 45 degree heel forward, the next stone switch back to 90 degree.

This will allow you to quickly tell if you are removing the previous stria.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Looking at the pics and listening to what you are doing it almost looks as though the steel can't hold the 15k Pro edge
There are some old threads about the Shapton Pro hones not being optimal for SR honing, I honestly don't know many that use them.
I would try a shave after the 8k and stropping and see how it feels

There is another trick Technique called a Micro-Bevel or Secondary Bevel..

You might try the same thing through the 8K then before you go to the 15k add one more layer of tape and see if that holds the edge better..

The 1-8 levels look better from what I see

I agree and now I'm seriesly contemplating changing up my stones I'm using... From the looks of it I don't have any issues from 1-8k so I could keep those and maybe just get a new finishing stone? Is it okay to switch up brands on stones? What would u recommend, I would like a 15k plus

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yes the 8K looks better than the 15K. Over all looks good and as said a good stropping will probably shave. Some Chrome Oxide might clean it up.

Try stropping after the 8k on linen and leather 10-15 laps, then hone on the 15k.

Or sometimes, I lightly joint the 8k edge, strop on linen or canvas, then reset the edge on the finish stone. Watch your pressure, the edge should come together after a few laps.

There could be a lot of reasons, it is either the razor/steel, bad steel or on vintage, possible cell rot, too aggressive a stone while repairing,(Diamonds are notorious for this), too much pressure.

The stone, not lapped properly, or a burr on one edge.

The honer, too much pressure, not enough laps, too many laps.

Narrow down the possibilities, but I would lap the 15k with the 2 & 5K and round or bevel the edges.

When you are working up your progression, alternate direction on your finish laps, eg. finish 1k straight so the stria is 90 degrees to the edge. on the next stone do finish laps, at 45 degree heel forward, the next stone switch back to 90 degree.

This will allow you to quickly tell if you are removing the previous stria.

So I did properly Lapp the 15k then used a nagura to smooth it out, I also used a different razor I got from SRD recently... 6/8 Ralf Aust and it did the same thing, very strange lol

Yeah maybe some chromium ox is good, I got some diamond lapping paste 1 micron and .5...

When I get to the 8k point I'm using super light pressure like just the weight of my razors, until I get desired effects, then go to the 15k I first try just a dozen passes check the scope and it right away looks worse, so I try going for longer... It's tough to say... I think I'm going to go over to bluesman7 house and see if he has the same results and go from there... I would hate to blame the stone but it looks like it now

What is the grit of the Nagura, and did you wash it completely off the stone? If the grit of the Nagura is not 15k (Doubt it is) you will lower the grit and smoothness to the lowest grit on the stone, and you don’t need the Nagura, if you are lapping properly. What are you lapping with?

It only takes a few minutes to grid and re-lap the stone and eliminate that as a potential problem.

A good alternative is the 12k Super Stone, it has a long history of proven performance. Yes you can mix stones as long as the progression is correct.

Some razors prefer different stones, especially finishers

How are the shaves? 8k VS 15k? Does the 15k shave worse than coming off the 8k?

I enjoy your enthusiasm and think you for taking the time to post the pics,,,,,