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Thread: Edge is not straight but great to exfoliate

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    That was all me. Probably did it when I was a teenager and had even less knowledge than today...which is scarey. Hopefully that's just a cosmetic issue.

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Windsorman View Post
    That was all me. Probably did it when I was a teenager and had even less knowledge than today...which is scarey. Hopefully that's just a cosmetic issue.
    I can't see well from the pic about the shoulder, but you have a frown starting from the toe about a 1/3 of the blade towards the heel.Name:  razor fix.jpg
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    You can find threads on fixing a frown, breadknifing is not the way.
    BobH likes this.
    Stefan

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    Fatty Boom Boom WW243's Avatar
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    I'd encourage you to fall back and regroup. You have a nice razor. Slow and steady wins the race. There are many threads for all levels of honing skills here, from the basic, to the level of Quantum physics, and into Mysticism. Good Luck!
    "Call me Ishmael"
    CUTS LANE WOOL HAIR LIKE A Saus-AGE!

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    Fatty Boom Boom WW243's Avatar
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    The bottom half of the shoulder and the scratching near the bevel at the heel. It could be the light...
    "Call me Ishmael"
    CUTS LANE WOOL HAIR LIKE A Saus-AGE!

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I would (perhaps this is sort of already said in total) joint the front of that razor at the tip so that it's a continuous smile. Then spot set the bevel on the jointed area until the bevel is uniform, and run through your progression.

    I no qualms about jointing a spot just like you'd do with a chisel or iron to get the geometry back to proper, but it's something you'd need to do only one time ever to the razor and it's a minimal amount (at 90 degrees, the dip at the nose will disappear on a medium stone in a few strokes. It'll take more to rework the bevel at the front, but there's no reason to breadknife/joint the whole edge, only the part that needs to be removed.

    Some of this stuff about changing the geometry of an edge reminds me of woodworking with hand tools. A lot of newbies to woodworking with hand tools only will want a method that they can use on every board, but eventually, being sparing and preserving what you have will lead you to work areas that need to be removed only. On a piece of rough lumber, that would mean planing the high spots off before going at it on the whole board. It's less effort and there's more wood left when you're done. Same as there will be more razor left here.

    Of course, if you have a good non-abrasive linen, there's probably 200 years of shaves left in that razor, anyway. It'll be dropped or banged into something long before it actually wears out.

    If you hone it heavily every couple of weeks, its prognosis isn't so good!!
    Blistersteel likes this.

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