Thread: Edge is not straight but great to exfoliate

Hi, I'm trying to restore an edge to my razor, but all it does is exfoliate. I made the mistake of honing the edge prior to straightening it. Is it necessary to joint or breadboard the edge or is there a better, ie way to preserve material, to straighten the edge? Also, short of having the experience of honing a thousand razors, how does one avoid overhoning?

Thank you in advance!

I would breadknifed the edge then hone. Also check the spine wear. It looks like more wear in the center. You may have to put an extra layer of tape in that area to get an even bevel.

Oops, my woodworking jargon leaked out. Meant breadknife. Ok, I'll do that and tape the spine accordingly. Thank you very much!

I'm nit sure I agree. Why are you bread knifing the edge? Looking at that picture it looks to me that it has a smirk and that it not a bad thing. I think you need to use a heal leading x stroke with a swoop at the end and you will be ok. With lapped hones progress through from 1K, 4K, 8K, and check the bevel and edge frequently with a loupe. Be sure to keep the razor flat on the hone, and tape will be your friend when it comes to reducing wear.

I was thinking the same thing as Shaun with regards to leaving the smile as is and using the stroke he recommended. It is likely exfoliating and not shaving as you have not got the bevel set properly yet. Do not move off the 1k before you are certain the bevel is set properly. The bevel set makes or breaks a honing.

Bob

How does one know if the bevel is set? I probably need a cheap loop. For a wworking edge, it's sufficient to see a perfect reflection off the bevel and no reflection off the edge viewed on edge with rake lighting when first setting the bevel. Obviously the tolerances are tighter with a blade cutting hair on rubbery skin vs wood shavings on a rigid substrate. This is humbling. I'm very particular about sharpening my plane irons, which I've been doing for many years, but I'm terrible at this. Hopefully I haven't completely ruined the spine.

At this point you are OK. Tape it and it will be safe in the future. The spine and the edge sit on the hone. Keep your stroke smooth. I watched a lot of gssixgun videos. What ever videos you choose to learn from stick with one person, it is much less confusing that way. A cheap 30 or up to 60 power loupe is a great way to check to see if your bevel is set, as in a perfect apex. Also tree topping arm hair, if it is long enough is great too. If you can use two or three tests together it will help you on your way. One on one with someone or a meet is best.

The info here Category:Honing - Straight Razor Place Library may be of some help. You can use a magic marker to blacken the edge to see if you are honing all the way to the edge and yes a cheap loupe will be a big help in inspecting for this. You can use reflected light also as you have been doing.

I usually see if the edge will cleanly cut arm hairs all along the edge as a test for bevel set. If it does I do a few more light strokes on the 1K and move on.

You really have to watch the weight you apply to the blade as it is easy to use too much bend the bevel and hone behind the edge. Just the weight of the blade alone. Full and extra hollow ground razors are particularly sensitive to pressure applied but so are the other grinds.

I always tape the spine and replace if it shows wear to prevent excessive spine wear. Not everyone does this though.

Don't worry everyone finds honing a SR a challenge at the start regardless if the have experience sharpening knives or plane irons. Honing a SR is different enough that you have to learn a new technique and that takes time.

Bob

Ho breadknifing is needed. Breadknifing is totally unnecessary and only introduces a ton of honing and wear on the blade without any need for it.

The issue can be corrected with honing, start on a low grit hone, 400 for example, and hone the issue out. The process can be sped up by correcting with spine lifted from the stone at about 45*, then setting the bevel. If you breadknife you are going to lose a lot more steel than necessary to fix the problem.

Some better photos would help advise you. And yes, do read the first three post in the honing thread and the Honing section of the library. You have a nice razor there, would be a shame to damage it needlessly.

Do not do anything until you have the proper tools and a good understanding of how to hone a straight razor. The goal of honing a straight razor is much different than sharpening tools, requires much higher grit stones and a completely different technique.

What do you plan to hone this razor on?