It's always tempting but hunting in your yard will spoil the view for a long time. You can get the same game a few miles away and still have the rest of them come and visit.
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I find that a salt lick and 50 pounds of cracked corn brings em back everyear . It really pisses SWMBO when I shoot from inside the house. Hot casing on the carpet burning holes in the floor.
Yeah 30 yards distance to the bait and me stabilized using the deck keeps me out of hot water.
Cull the herd and take a young doe for the best meat.
My coyotes and hawks and eagles clean up the view quickly.
Here is me learning to join the bevels/ or joint the bevels
Pre joining
Attachment 219481
One 2mm moveAttachment 219482
2nd 2mm strokeAttachment 219483
My Nike swoosh at the toe
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WOW!! Those Chosera are a game changer coming from naturals only.
You are all correct. Still finished on a Coticle w Thuri slurry.
Nice looking coticule Sedell, the slurry knows. Here's a TI with a layer of tape on request. This is not the whole progression but the best part.
bevel set on 1K
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/HkQmxDR.jpg[/IMG]
mid range J-nat
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/KKKkmzm.jpg[/IMG]
final finish on J-nat
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/vBYM4UW.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=MODINE;1568342]Nice looking coticule Sedell, the slurry knows. Here's a TI with a layer of tape on request. This is not the whole progression but the best part.
Those razors for $89 where the best deal ever. I will have to get mine out now. Great pics
Ooooooo an actual W&B "Near Wedge" has been the interesting one for the last 2 days out here
Took 4 times through the bevel setting process to get it to finally pop a solid bevel.
This is a perfect example of not sitting there grinding away on 1 razor, but to try, and if it just won't pop, set the razor aside and walk away for the next day..
Chosera 1-5-10 Select Grade Coticule finisher
Attachment 219884
Have a Happy Turkey Day Gents "Hone On"
[QUOTE=Sedell;1567820]nice, what are those called?
Elk, Elk Pictures, Elk Facts - National Geographic
Mike
I've got friends who have gone to Colorado for the past three years for elk hunting, or a better term might be "expensive cold frustrating camping trip." Apparently They should go to Idaho next year.
I thought elk and moose was the same, I was wrong :)
Well we have alot of Mooses around here, Swedish word is Älg.
http://animals.nationalgeographic.co...?source=A-to-Z
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Hone of the day are those 2 amazing kiitas
Lots of synthetics are touted as fine bevel-setters here. I have been really happy with this old blue Naniwa 1k.
Does a fine job, IMO.
Attachment 220034
I need to replace my king 1k I think. Just seems to take forever to get to a good bevel with it..
Was thinking either Naniwa or Chosera..I can't see me stopping with the ebay dogs anytime soon.. ;)
I thought my Norton 1k was much slower than this Naniwa until I tried slurrying the Norton.
For tough ones, I use the Norton with slurry a pile before going to the Naniwa 1K.
Everyone says the big green brick is the schizzle....Some say not? Never tried one...Seems messy? :rofl2:
In light of Mike's dissatisfaction with his king 1k. It is ol reliable for me. It may take a bit to get there but I only hone for myself. I also rarely buy an eBay razor. When I do I slurry the king with the diamond plate or coticule slurry.
So today I took a razor that wasn't shaving well. Started with King 1k, to coticule with milky slurry. Diluted to plain water and switched to my les lat hybrid side for a final finish. Smooth and keen.
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The razor was my ugly keen kutter I do testing on.
Green brick there is no substitute.
And despite being slow the 1k king got me there tonight on a couple of blades.
An Alwyn, US made blade needed some heel reshaping to get it sitting proper on the stones. It progressed from the king to the 4/8k norton to the CF. Finished on a brushed leather board with .25 diamond spray before hitting the strops. Nice edge.
Attachment 220046
The other, a Palmera 14 started on the king as well, but then went BB with a good slurry till sticky. Than the coti, finishing on an escher. Excited to try out this one as I hear good things and love the grind and sound of it's temper.
:beer1:
Happy Holidays gents!
Hope you all get time to do what you enjoy,,
Mike, is that a Charnley sitting there in that pic????
Yessir, on the left side is my CF I got from the gent in UK with all the lovely rocks. Was after trying Colin's Charnley at Mike's that I went looking for one.
Did a nice job on Scott's Alwyn. I stack that one up against the Thuri's, depending on steel for fine finished edges.
Can see how much I removed to get the heel back above the edge on the Alwyn. Used the dremel and a micro file to reshape and smooth it out.
Cheers,
I'm in the market for one right now.... and I'm currently in 1st place for one on Ebay. Fingers crossed that I win! Really would like to have one in my arsenal.
Hope you win it. A nice stone to have in the kit for sure.
:tu
Solitarysoldier: I'm fairly new (not to life but to straight razor shaving & honing), this is the first I seen polishing a stone. Could you explain that to a willing learner?
Chosera 1K is a game changer for me. But I am heavy handed. Slurry and Norton scratches up the blade WAY past bevel. Chosera and slurry work done in a hurry with no scratches up past the bevel. Not the stones fault its mine. Less going back to resand the scratched blade.
Interesting how you mentioned 'heavy-handed'. As I describe my usual progression to others, they are surprised how many reps I perform. Seldom do I push hard on the 1k unless there is a problem spot. I usually just let it do it's job. I have been gifted an Okudu Tomo Nagura which slurries it'self onto the Norton easily and makes for a fast cutter without excessive scratching of the bevel. I found that raising the slurry from the Norton makes for a rough hone. I still go to the Naniwa 1k after. Very light from there onward, weight of the blade only. YMMV
No Your way is correct and the valuable chance to have honed a many. I am learning but 20years behind you my friend. I once thought 50 strokes per grit was Gospel. 20 circles to sharp was Holy Spirit. In the Church of Super Sharp.
Plus Glenn once said "torque the edge while keeping the spine flat" I was Saved. WRONG.
I may torque it a little too hard, redo 10 blades this winter only to rehone. Hands on is huge. You cant teach pressure and finesse, were the edge is going.Just because you found SRP doesnt make anyone an expert by any stretch. I comment alot less and wait for the Goodguys to speak on things now.
Oh and I still break things, Thank goodness for beater blades and Antique Shops.
Spray and go!.
Mike
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/aJBTpph.jpg[/IMG]
Attachment 220248
a Brian Brown Custom done on the Nakayama with a full Nagura progression...
This was from Thanksgiving morning :)
I've been trying out all the stones in my arsenal on my snail forge custom razor from bruno. When I etched the blade to reveal the differential heat treatment, I did not protect the edge. As a result, microchipping plagued me for a long time. After getting that issue fixed, I started with the gokumyo 20k. Shaves were good, very smooth, nothing to complain about at all. Next up was the escher. Much smoother shave, but didn't have that crisp sharpness like it had on the 20k. Then the nakayama. I must have done something horribly wrong because that shave sucked! I think I tapped the side of the hone or something, because I just honed it on the coticule and there is a very small ding on the edge, and I know it wasn't from this honing session and remember feeling a particle scratch when on the nakayama. I think I'm going to shave with it anyway.
Ok so my main question is what are your preferred methods for finishing on the jnat? I've tried water only after a koma and tomo slurry, and haven't been impressed by that. Thanks for any input, and enjoy the pics :)
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If you look at just the last 2 posts above you will notice that the J=nats still have slurry on them :p
There are no rules set in stone (pun intended) but most people tend to want the J-nat slurry to break down and finish on that, some of us go so far as to leave that slurry intact on the surface of the hone so we start with slurry that is already partially broken down :)
Try it out a few ways on a few razors and see what works out
I usually finish on thin tomo slurry. If I do water only, I'm typically trying to boost the keeness a little.
Cheers, Steve
Ok so I don't want to derail this thread but I'm in a bit of a panic attack right now. The jnat in my previous pics is relatively new. I bought it a while back, and tested out a couple of already shave ready razors on it, and got very good edges. Then, due being a college student seeking a double major, I haven't touched in several weeks if not a couple of months. This week I've been off from school, and honed that bruno blade to much a dissapointing shave. It turns out that this stone has what I believe to be a toxic wire. When honing through a full progression of nagura, the wire becomes noticeable to both the touch of a finger, the nagura, and the blade. I feel really stupid I didn't put two and two together sooner, and I'm really hoping the seller is able to help me work something out. Here's a picture of the wire...
Attachment 220312
So you first had good results with this rock and all of a sudden a toxic wire appears on your hone?
No, it was there the whole time. When I first got it, I didn't think it was toxic 1) it's a reputable seller and it wasn't mentioned as being toxic in the description and 2) the first few razors I honed on it were already shave ready. So when I honed those it was with very light pressure and after lapping. It didn't affect honing under those conditions. It's only become noticeable after I go from the 1k to a full nagura progression. The naguras and the honing action releases slurry around the wire, thus making it noticeable. Does that make sense, I'm trying to explain it the best I can?
You made it perfectly clear to me. I am no toxic wire expert but my guess it that the material in the vein is softer or harder than the rock and due to the use of the naguras you have either exposed the harder material or created a narrow depression in the stone that catches the edge everytime the blade crosses it.
If you got it from a reputable seller he will sort you out.
That is a toxic wire. Likely you did not lap the stone when you received it or not by much? What is common practice for the informed *owner* of a hone they knowingly bought with a toxic inclusion to do, is to 'engrave'. There are a lot of ways to do this, with a tomo, a piece of steel etc running along the toxic line to make it wear slightly lower than the rest of the stone. Or digging out with a needle. My preferred method is to use a dremel and a diamond bit or diamond disc and a wash bottle feeding the head with a stream of water. None of this is any bearing though, because if the seller is worth their salt they'll take back a stone with a toxic wire they sold for razors.
Kees may not be an expert, but he is 100% right that this is by definition a toxic wire. If it's harder than the stone, it's toxic.
On a (hopefully) less upsetting note: what's your double major?
Yess look toxic - take a DE blade or a sharp needle or whatever you have and scratch it out - that will work