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Thread: Hone of the Day
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07-21-2017, 01:11 PM #1
Quick question, and I am sorry that this is perhaps not the place to ask it but it is relevant to the above quote.
I am only on my very first steps of the honing journey and just have a 12k finisher for refreshing my blades.
I just wondered why you kill the edge and is it important to do that? It's just that if I had to do that I would be there a good long while with my 12k trying to get it back.
This is just really a question to Phrank as I really don't want toFact: Opinions are not the same as facts... Well, that's my opinion anyway
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07-21-2017, 04:47 PM #2
Some guys kill the edge others don't it's a matter of preference, I am in about the 50/50 camp, killing the edge is exactly what it implies you are making it blunt by "Bread knifing" the edge, think slicing bread, it takes away the cutting edge and exposes new steel to hone on.
Some will kill the edge before every honing session some will do it one or more times after bevel set and reset the bevel before moving on, if I have a stubborn edge I do it but normally I just go 4/8K then finish, if you are just starting out honing I would suggest you not try it as you can do more harm than good."A Honer's adage "Hone-Shave-Repeat"
~William~
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jnatcat For This Useful Post:
Porl (07-21-2017)
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07-22-2017, 07:03 AM #3
2 blades bevel set on the chosera 1k. A club fbu and ern ator. Thinking I might try the 1k shave as others are doing in another thread. Haven't done yet. Might follow with every stone through the progression
My wife calls me.........Can you just use Ed
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07-22-2017, 10:13 AM #4
I know this was directed at Phrank, but I'll throw in a tidbit anyway.
If you "kill" the edge on glass (say a beer bottle), it would take only a minimal amount of strokes on a 12,000 grit stone to get your edge back, as this folds the edge rather than abrade it.
However, I use this method to rule out false positives after doing bevel work. I don't see very much use for it at the finishing stage.
Best regards,
Pieter
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07-23-2017, 04:26 AM #5
Just finishing the W&B, Celebrated, FBU for the second time, just wasn't quite there IMO...didn't kill the edge, went down to the 3k, and added the 5k and 10k, now just going to finish it on the Escher, Barber's Delight....shave test tomorrow and hopefully perfect.
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07-23-2017, 03:49 PM #6
I honed these three at the Denver Meet yesterday. The Sheffield and the Boker Red-Injun both needed a new bevel, so I killed the edges and then went with what I got: Norton 1k, 4k, 8k and Naniwa 12k. This morning before testing, I gave each about 10 passes on CrOx pasted balsa, 30 strokes on fabric, 60 on Latigo, then 40 more on a Tony Miller Fast Bridle. The little W&B needed a refresh only, so I started on the 8k/12k and finished the same way. All three passed the test, though the W&B is still a little rough. Gotta get out the loupe and see what I can see. Honing is starting to make some sense finally. My solution: think less, and listen and feel more. Who knew?
-Doug
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07-23-2017, 05:11 PM #7
Just honed up my Spartacus T.I
All my prime Sheffield blades are honed , locked, cocked n rocked
So yesterday I did a Hart and today this one.
Beautiful blade and scales..
Thanks..
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07-23-2017, 08:02 PM #8
Killing the edge maybe a good thing for a razor you do not know as Pieter said it's a good way of ruling out false positives, on the the other hand if it's one of your own a tried a tested razors then you do not need to kill the edge as you are only going to refresh a edge which you already know.
“Wherever you’re going never take an idiot with you, you can always find one when you get there.”
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07-24-2017, 12:19 AM #9
Based on 100 x visual observation the "restored" John Cockhill Sheffield wedge did not like the final finish on the striped Thruingian, which surprised me.
It did like the final finish on the vintage J-nat barber hone. The shave test will tell.... No edges were harmed in the honing of this razor....
MIke
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07-25-2017, 02:53 AM #10
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