Thread: any help will be appreciated

This thread http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html might be of some help.

Merry Christmas to you too.

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

This thread http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html might be of some help.

Merry Christmas to you too.

Bob

that's what i exactly did at start when i corrected the crack. but my blade is not a hollow one, so even if i decrease the angle after butter knife level, the bevel does not touch at all to hone if i put it flat. that's why i could not hone.

i don't know maybe i'm wrong at somewhere but for now the only way i can get a result is to lift up the spine and go on like that.

Originally Posted by Oustoura

that's what i exactly did at start when i corrected the crack. but my blade is not a hollow one, so even if i decrease the angle after butter knife level, the bevel does not touch at all to hone if i put it flat. that's why i could not hone.

i don't know maybe i'm wrong at somewhere but for now the only way i can get a result is to lift up the spine and go on like that.

If I recall correctly, the essence of the thread was that when you butterknife a blade it makes things easier if you do so with the spine lifted off the hone similar to honing a knife. That way you do not have as much work to make the bevels meet to form an edge as you would if you simply had the blade vertical to the hone to breadknife it. You would not have a fairly wide flat edge that you now have.

Then when you do put the spine on the hone you don't have remove as much metal from the shoulders of the bevel but you still will have to remove metal to establish the new bevel that meets at the edge. You will wind up with a wider bevel, usually, if you have reduced the blade size while removing the chip.

It takes quite a while on a 1K hone to reset a bevel after breadknifing a blade. Longer on a wedge razor as you have to remove even more metal than on a hollow ground blade. I have a few razors with wider bevels than normal after chip removal but they still shave.

Like I say I am not expert. What you do next is up to you. Sorry I can't be more helpful. If there is a member of the forum near you it would be helpful to get their hands on advice.

Bob

I see, well what I did at first was the correct the crack at 90 degrees on the dmt so I had the butter knife. After that, I started to reduce the angle of the blade ( still on dmt), at the moment I did 15 passes less than 45 degrees, I put the blade flat on the hone 400 grit ( here the bevel can cut still nothing) and I started to hone with blade flat on the hone. I don't know but may be I did 200 or 300 passes and I got nothing at all ( I've 4 layers of tape on the spine). When I say nothing, I mean nothing, the bevel did not get better at all. Well I returned back on dmt then you know the story as I told on first message.

I think untill the last step ( before to return back on the dmt), I followed correctly the tuto to set the bevel. It just can't get the edge finer, that's why I draw the last picture. The shape ( triangle) of the blade does not let to have a correct edge which cut the hairs. And that's why I think the blade need to be grinded from the spine to edge for get ready to be honed as told in the Tuto. Otherwise I have a big hone wear.

I don't know if I was correct, I'm not an expert neither so I will wait for some other people give advise before to take it back. But for,now I don't see an other way to hone it without,lift up the spine.

Well please share your advises

I did it!

As I told the blade was too fat after reduced its width. After tried many times the heavy bevel set which was for hollow and semi hollow razors and for the wedges which did,not lost too,much of their volume, this afternoon I decided to take it back and set up its angles to have a edge. And yes, finally it worked. I honed it and just shaved, it's a comfortable blade, soft shave.

Glad you got it worked out. Any work like that on an old wedge is going to take time.