I've reached a stage in my honing where I'm beginning to try things, even the things which are accepted as sub-optimal in terms of technique. What I'm really looking for here is some practical and considered input from the honemeisters (and honemeisters-in-waiting of course ) for us noobs.

I'm now able to hone my straights to a point where they shave well. I've had repeated success here so I'm happy with my progress. I've never managed to have much success with HHT (even a Lynn-honed TI doesn't pass the HHT with my hair, but clearly it shaves extremely well!).

So until now I've been:
  • honing one-handed
  • using x-pattern
  • using Norton 4k/8k combi stone
  • used aggressive and conservative pyramids depending on edge
  • always finish with a polishing on the coticule, about 20 passes, medium slurry density
  • always taping the spine before honing (ever since I wore the spine on one of the Wapienicas I bought -- shocking how easy it was to wear it down!)
I found progress slow and frustrating at first. Quite often hit and miss using the technique above. Eventually I began to get better, but still felt I wasn't achieving. So then I started to experiment with interesting results.

Challenging accepted wisdom #1 - Only ever use one hand to hone, and use no pressure at all
I've always understood that good honing technique involves a one-handed approach. Mainly to ensure you don't put too much pressure on the edge. Essentially, you should use no more pressure than the weight of the straight itself.
But I got to thinking: the weight of the straight depends upon so many variables. Such as the size of the blade (a 3/8 has to be somewhat lighter than a full on meat-chopping 8/8 right?); such as the type of handle, from bakerlite to plastic to crusted mammoth ivory to denser New Zealand woods to solid carbon steel scales on Polish razors.
So does a very light touch of a second finger really make that much difference? I tried to use a two-handed approach because I felt it would massively improve the evenness of contact between blade and stone (especially the much narrower coticule). I was very careful to ensure I used negligible pressure with my second hand -- literally enough to 'feel' the blade was in contact with the stone. And incredibly slight forward force (i.e. from spine to edge) to help the blade move along the stone.
And for the Wapienica requiring bevel-work? I used some pressure. OK, so I don't own a 1k Norton and resorted to a 4k to establish the bevel, but I felt that some pressure might get the job done efficiently. It worked pretty well.

Challenging accepted wisdom #2 - Use an X-pattern
On my coticule this is unavaoidable due to it being narrow. But I got to thinking why do that on the Norton? The blade fits across the whole stone. So I have been honing without X on Nortons, but with X on coticule. And no X on the (wide TM) strop. I can't say I've noticed a difference on the blade.

Challenging accepted wisdom #3 - Never back-hone unless you're resolving a wire edge
OK, I haven't challenged this one because it just doesn't feel right to me. But on another recent thread (here) Kees posted this video link which shows a supposedly experienced German guy honing two-handed and back honing at the same time (my assumption here is the video is instruction on how one hones in general rather than how one hones out a wire edge). This video seemed as wrong to me as the Youtube spoof of someone honing on a brick (OK, exaggeration, but you get it).
But it got me thinking that maybe these taboos and rules are clearly there to help guide us, but are they accessible to someone who knows what they're doing?

The only analogy I can use is learning how to drive. Here in the UK every driving instructor who is teaching a learner will impart a golden rule: do NOT cross over your hands/arms on the steering wheel when turning a corner or tight bend. In the UK you can fail your test if you do. It is considered dangerous since you are likely to have less control than the classic clock position of "ten minutes to two".

However, there is a higher level of driving one can attain called "advanced driver". This also requires a driving test, but is for drivers of some experience. It is optional and the only material benefit appears to be to reduce one's insurance premiums. Now, in the advanced driver's lessons the instructors tell you to cross your hands when turning a tight corner, i.e. the opposite of accepted wisdom for beginners. It's seen as more efficient and, to an experienced driver, does not compromise control of the vehicle.

In other words it's a technique frowned upon for beginners, but may have a valid use for the more experienced.

So, does it apply to honing techniques?

(Although I feel my honing improved with the two tweaks above, I don't want to go down a path which leads to bad technique for the sake of a short-term gain. Any input from experienced honers much apreciated!)