Thread: Should I try to tackle this (very difficult, IMHO) challenge?

Yea, going to the 1k was a good idea. And yes, do multiple strokes, 10 or more depending on how much material you need to remove, then the opposite side.

You can hone to a profile or you can shape it by bread knifing on a low grit stone to remove material and shape, then hone to that edge.

You can also vary the angle, starting at a high angle, then blend the two bevels, if you can’t see the bevels clearly use ink.

Today's status... using 1K Norton, 5 layers of tape. I did multiple strokes on each side and then the same with the other side. I focused first on toe, then middle and then heel. Then I did Just X strokes, and tried checking with Sharpie. Still sort of hit or miss with getting coverage on heel and toe, when doing X stroke (lifting opposite end).

So, I jointed the edge, checked that it clearly had flat spots, and then went back to straight strokes, on the three regions. Making sure I'm seeing the water pushing in front of the blade as a guide. I transitioned from doing several strokes on each side, to doing one per side and only using the weight of the blade. Again, lifting the far end, so that I can get to the edge.

I took a bunch of shots, this time at the high magnification and low magnification. I see a second bevel on each side, but am not worrying. It does seem a little sharper to my thumb. Again, it barely seems to cut arm hair, but that isn't always a great test for me. Here are the shots (I hope they are in focus ) ...

I tried comparing to another blade I have (a Boker), but with a totally different grind, I'm not sure I can compare well. The Boker feels sharper, but is and extra hollow.

Should I give another test shave a try? Cr-Ox, linen, and leather strop first?

Should I try to move up to 2K? Not sure what more I can do on the 1K at this point.

Should I try 1K, but with only 4 or 3 layers and see what happens?

At this point, nothing ventured, nothing gained on my part. It's all an experiment with this blade. I do seem to think the straight strokes work better, compared to X or rolling X I've done on other (less problematic blades).

Looking forward to opinions...

It does look like you have hit some better steel at the toe and heel, move up to the 2k for a bit, then some polishing on the 4k.

The 4k will show any defects in the edge, though it looks pretty good now.

You can try removing one layer on the 2k and see what happens, just make sure you are honing to the edge.

I started on the 2K with 4 layers, and did straight strokes, focusing on sections at a time of the blade. I checked with inking and it wasn't touching the edge at all, anywhere. There is the second bevel, as I had once before, and the upper part of the bevel is more polished than the lower, so it is not getting to the edge - maybe 0.5mm away.

I put another layer back on, and honed some more. The lower part of the bevel has a similar stria to the upper bevel. I'm guessing that I'd probably need to drop to the 1K and do 4 layers and then come up to the 2k, as the bevel changes slowly on the 2K (last time, I honed quite a bit to remove the second bevel). The edges seem to meet well. There is some faceting on the toe though.




Thoughts, comments, suggestions?

If you remove one layer of tape you have to take the shoulder of the bevel down a little ways before you start to get back to the edge. Was that ink evenly removed to not quite the edge? That would mean your stroke is even and the bevel is even. If you are wanting to change the angle take the layer of tape off, otherwise stick with the 5.

Yea, I was thinking to start removing some tape, to get a bit more stability on the spine for polishing.

If you stay on the 2k it will eventually grind down to the edge, but might be easier to hone on the 1k with 4 layers to re set the bevel. Then go to the 2k. Either way it should not take too much to re-set the edge.

As you remove tape you will have to re-shape the bevel to reach the edge.

A half a mil is not much once the bevels are flat. The edge looks good, except in photo 3, the Heel? Could use a bit more work.

Originally Posted by RezDog

If you remove one layer of tape you have to take the shoulder of the bevel down a little ways before you start to get back to the edge. Was that ink evenly removed to not quite the edge? That would mean your stroke is even and the bevel is even. If you are wanting to change the angle take the layer of tape off, otherwise stick with the 5.

I didn't ink the whole bevel, unfortunately. I only inked the very edge and was seeing that none of that ink was removed. The second bevel (higher up) was more polished. When I added the fifth layer of tape back on, the ink was removed. Seems like I'd need to hone quite a bit, to get to the edge with the 2K, when using 4 layers.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yea, I was thinking to start removing some tape, to get a bit more stability on the spine for polishing.

If you stay on the 2k it will eventually grind down to the edge, but might be easier to hone on the 1k with 4 layers to re set the bevel. Then go to the 2k. Either way it should not take too much to re-set the edge.

As you remove tape you will have to re-shape the bevel to teach the edge.

A half a mil is not much once the bevels are flat. The edge looks good, except in photo 3, the Heel? Could use a bit more work.

Yeah, I was thinking of dropping to 1K with 4 layers, to get one bevel. I think I'd need to spend a lot of time on the 2K to get there. Photo 3 (of the first three showing the edge), is the heel.

Will give 4 layers a shot and see how it works out.