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Thread: Finshing hones, sharp or for comfort?

  1. #11
    Senior Member Sharp&Shiny's Avatar
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    I find that just using my coticule gives me a more skin friendly edge.
    It's not as sharp as some edges I have received when getting shave ready blades from sellers like the invisible edge .New Thiers & Bokers gave me irritation until I took the edge's back on my coti.
    So for now I have 3 blades in permanent rotation & all of them have coti edge's on them.
    It all comes down to personal choice.
    Cheers Paul

  2. #12
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    I have a theory that if a razor is as sharp & as polished as it can be, everything else is in your hands.
    The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.

  3. #13
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    Cool Great replies gents

    [QUOTE=onimaru55;1610750]I have a theory that if a razor is as sharp & as polished as it can be, everything else is in your hands.[

    Many thanks for all the input, I think I may have on occasions overdone the 20k strokes, where as with the coticule I can hone away and develop better muscle memory improving my stroke without creating a foil edge, thus the comfort. Cheers Bob
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  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    An over done synthetic edge is easily remedied, by simply lightly jointing the edge on the corner of the stone, the GS20 in your case. Then re-setting the edge on the stone, it should only take 10 or so laps if you used lite pressure to joint.

    It should only take a few minutes to put a new edge on it. The other thing that works well for the GS20, is jointing the edge just before putting it on the GS20, so you have a very straight edge and then the 20 makes it’s own edge bringing the bevels together.

    Or stropping on linen, just before the GS20.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    An over done synthetic edge is easily remedied, by simply lightly jointing the edge on the corner of the stone, the GS20 in your case. Then re-setting the edge on the stone, it should only take 10 or so laps if you used lite pressure to joint.

    It should only take a few minutes to put a new edge on it. The other thing that works well for the GS20, is jointing the edge just before putting it on the GS20, so you have a very straight edge and then the 20 makes it’s own edge bringing the bevels together.

    Or stropping on linen, just before the GS20.
    Thanks, I've seen a video of Alx Gilmore (The Japan Blade) performing this process. Seems a lot more delicate than straight out killing the edge on a glass, but the 'joining' maneuver sounds a good thing. Must try it. Regards Bob

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    If you end up with a wire edge before the final stone the next stone will remove it.
    Jointing is mostly unecessary with razors IMHO. In fact just a few light strokes will remove it on the stone that you created it on.
    A wire edge is always due to excess pressure &/or strokes.

    btw Moved to honing where this thread should get more views.
    Last edited by onimaru55; 03-09-2016 at 12:19 AM.
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    The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.

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  8. #17
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    If you end up with a wire edge before the final stone the next stone will remove it.
    Jointing is mostly unecessary with razors IMHO.
    Yup.

    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    Jointing is mostly unecessary with razors IMHO. In fact just a few light strokes will remove it on the stone that you created it on.
    Yup.

    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    A wire edge is always due to excess pressure &/or strokes.
    And again, yup.

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